No Tan Taxidermy.

[fatrooster]

I just recieved a 4 video instructional taxidermy course in the mail and when I watched the deer head mounting video the instructor put dry preservative on the skinned and fleshed out hide and then glued it on the manican without tanning the hide first. What opinions do you taxidermy guys have on the "no tan" method of taxidermy. Will it last as long as a tanned hide? Will it slip? Is this a common practice? Thanks, fatrooster.

 

[nochawk]

I have 2 mounts done like that from 1987, a whitetail and a muly. the only problem I have had is the ear's split on the muly.

I think that the white powder/preservative was Alum (sp), causing the cape to shrink and fit the form better. No problems with hair slippage or Bugs or anything.
I have been happy with mine so far.

 

[west]

i guess i have never heard of that. Do you have any pics of your mounts nochawk?

 

[kilowatt]

Wonder if that is simular to the old FreezeDried Method from a few years back?

Brian

 

[littlejoe]

my cousin had an elk done this way and all the hair is falling out less than three years later.

 

[monarchtaxidermy]

Dry Preservative is still used by a lot of taxidermists in todays world of taxidermy. Mostly with small game animals. It does work and if done correctly you can have a mount that will last years and be okay. I personally don't use DP and here are the reasons why. Tanning an animal basically is making a fine leather of your animals skin. DP is basically drying out or preserving the animal with a preservative. Think of it like a a good boot. You will spend good money for that great leather boot which is going to last a long time. The dry preserved boot is going to break down regardless over time. The other advantages of a tan is that the skin is shaved super thin and the glue thats hold your skin to the form will adhere really well. you will get a much softer better detailed mount also from a thin tanned cape then from a dry preserved cape. Bottom line is spend the money to tan a cape and your mount will last longer and look better in the long run. I know somebody will say they have a mount that was dry preserved and still looks good. It may but by today's standards in taxidermy it probably just doesn't. The reason it is used on small game animals a lot still is because there skin is already very thin and it a a easy simply quick way to mount them. For a deer I would definately get the hide tanned. hope this helps. There really are just a ton more advantages to at tanned hide than to a dry preserved hide. If you have any specific questions go a head an shoot me a PM
Monarch

 

[ForkWest]

Hey Fatty-Roo

I'll echo Monarch.

If you're just starting out (it think that's implied if you've ordered instructional videos) Do yourself a favor and spend the 35 bucks plus shipping to have the cape professionally tanned.

I've been there done that. I'm truly speaking from being in your exact shoes ten years ago, and I hope you see my comments for what they're worth.

I did the dry preserve, I'm telling you don't bother. I've try the wipe on tan-in-a-bottle type products, don't bother. I've tried the tan at home kits similar to the commercial tans only on a smaller scale, don't bother. I've tried every economical means of fleshing, besides dropping the cash on a commercial grade flesher, don't bother. Each scenario has a few pro and a lot of cons, don't bother.

Finally I just sent my capes, via the cheapest shipping possible, to a commercial tannery and have never looked back. I actually laugh at myself for ever thinking I was saving money, time and effort. Actually contrary to the tenth degree!

Granted I don't kick out the number of heads a commercial guy does. I'm mainly only do my own and a few family/close friends anymore.

You will find a shorter learning curve, more satisfaction, and better results by having your capes professionally tanned, while in the end REALLY saving you time and money. It may not appear that way, but from experience, believe me it does!

Hope this helps, not trying to discourage you from trying different methods, only trying to save you some of the frustrations I've lived through and learned from. Drop me a line anytime if you need more info or any other questions answered. It's very rewarding to do you own work, that's something else I'd recommend, continue to pursue it.

I know you're out in Elko or somewhere, it think? Not to far to the east in Tooele is Western Skies Tannery, give them a shot. I've yet to try them but have done my due diligence on them and will be sending my next batch there. http://www.westernskiestannery.com/

 

[Packout]

Here is what I think about DP: I send everything out to be professionally tanned at a tannery. It is almost impossible to hold any quality detail in a mount with a DP and the life of the mount can be in question when using DP. Would you rather have DP leather couches or tanned leather couches? I know I would take the tanned leather.

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www.sagebasin.com
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[deerbedead]

Dry preservative is the quickest way to ruin a deer mount.
Take a look at one after a year and you will notice cracking on the eyes, ears, nostrils, and the mouth. It's a poor substitute for a real tan job.

I would not recommend using dry preservative.
Travis Roundy
Roundy Taxidermy

 

[steelheader]

I first used dry pre. in 1985 in taxidermy class in high school. Because of time, I used it on a deer I shot that season, it still looks very good (my teacher was Richard Jeppson of Highland Taxidermy so I can't take all the credit). And over the next few years I did 2 more deer. Now I tan them because I dont have to be in a hurry to do them. I've done 3 more deer and 2 pronghorns with tan capes they dont look any different (but I am no pro!!!) The tanned capes for me are easy to handle around the nose and eyes. Doing them yourself kind of completes the circle. (NOT TAKEING ANY THING AWAY FROM THE PROS) I shoot a b&c buck I'm comming to you guys!

 

[fatrooster]

Thanks everybody for your replies. You told me exactly what I wanted to know. fatrooster.

 

[ELKOHOLIC]

Stealheader, Taxidermy in high school? That would have been nice!

For someone just starting out, what's the up front cost going to be to get started with some good equipment? I know it's going to vary, but give me an idea? Sounds like some videos would be good to get started. It's hard to get a taxidermist to let you help him to learn a little about it understandably.