Laurel Mountain browning for metal parts

I just completed making a Hawken Muzzleloader. I used Laurel Mountain browning to the metal parts. What a joke. In Utah we usually have a low humidity and that creates a small problem with the browning process, but I have used WAHKON TRU BROWN and receive an excellent dark brown.

This time I tried LAUREL MOUNTAIN brown, followed the procedures to a tee. The brown was weak at best and when I put the oil on some of that came off. I called Laurel Brown Forge only to get an answering machine. I told the machine my problem, and to date, no reply.

If you want a rich brown to dark brown finish on your muzzleloader, I might suggest WAHKON TRU BROWN. I am in the process of sanding the metal parts down and re-doing and the Laurel Mountain's bottle - - well that is going to the shooting range.

you need humidity to forum the rust which browns the steel. What I do, and it takes a few days to properly brown one, is heat up the bathroom and turn the shower on to get humidity high, then just leave it for a few hours at a time, once in a while turning the shower on to get the humidity back up. Some build a humidity box with a light bulb " for heat" and a soaking wet towel at the bottom of the box.

www.FrontierMuzzleloading.com

www.PatchnBall.blogspot.com

I've used the Wahkon Browning before for a real dark brown without doing all of that. I guess what was the most disgusting part of it all is to get ignored by Laurel Mountain Forge.

Gander,

Finally heard back from Laurel Mountain Forge and they repeated what you wrote and they did return my call. I purchased a humidifier and we already had a cold air vaporizer. With the two in a confined room it looks as if it will work. Thanks.

I've used both. Prefer LMF. It's a more durable finish IMO. I do a minimum of three different applications and hang the barrel in a humid bathroom. I hang it for three hours each time.

Just takes patience.