Loose fitting bullet/sabot

jimmer

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For those having issues with loose fitting bullet/sabots.
I had the issue this year of loose fitting bullet/sabot that was affecting my accuracy. I called MFP and had them send me some new sabots. After measuring them with my tri-call I noticed that they were all consistent in size, new verses old lot. MMP makes the largest diameter sabot on the market. What to do? I found some information on line about using tin foil to wrap around the bullet. I tried this method and it worked like a champ! Will show photos in the next post.
 
LAST EDITED ON Oct-22-16 AT 04:51PM (MST)[p]http://www.monstermuleys.info/photos/user_photos_2016/42220160722153834.jpg

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I tried to rotate the photos but they still posted this way, sorry.
The target was 50 yards. The bullet is a 300gn .452 Speer Gold Dot or Deep Curl.
 
LAST EDITED ON Oct-23-16 AT 07:45AM (MST)[p]Jimmer
Us-readers want to know what bullets and sabots you were using and what make and model inline we're discussing here?
 
I am shooting a Knight Disc Elite. Speer .452 300 grain Gold Dot or Deep Curl bullets. MMP SABOTS.

Most shooters experience tight fitting loads thus the invention of crush rib sabots, to ease loading while still giving a good seal.
For some reason muzzleloader barrels aren't made to the tolerances of modern rifles, thus the problem with fit and seal.
My barrel is a little on the large side.502. .001 of aluminum foil wrapped around the bullet did the trick.
 
The Hornady XTP is a good bullet and they shoot very similar to the Speer bullets. They are both the same diameter but the Speer performs a bit better than the Hornady, plus I used to work for the company that owned Speer and purchased them for pennies.
 
You can also just knurl the bullets between 2 files to expand the diameter. It is free, and will not fall off. When I shoot the Hornady 300 gr FTX in my .50 cal, the bullet just slides down the bore without any resistance. I knurl the bullet which increases the diameter that produces a good seal for ignition. The bullet will expand as the pressure builds and fill the grooves.
 
Knurling should get you were you need to be.

I would test fit each bullet to fit bore with sabot. Shouldn't be to hard since the sabot will be pretty forgiving if you get them close to the same.
 
This will give you the idea.


Not sure what roller he is using but you can use two files - one on stop and bottom. You want a consistent fit to barrel.

Only issue with knurling is if you are shooting sabotless the metal (flakes from the file) can scare the barrel, but the sabot will protect your barrel from any chance of that.
 
Thanks for the video. Knurling is an option but I tend to get a bit nervous changing the bullet. Does it affect accuracy also creating wind drag or is the bullet now an oblong shape. That would be my concern.
Foil works great and it doesn't fall off when storing bullets and you can customize the diameter of your bullet to get the best result. I am not saying one is better than the other just throwing my two cents worth in.
 
Totally understand your point. I have not found knurling to impede accuracy out to 300 yards. I can still maintain 1.5 MOA at 300 yards. I have not shot knurled bullets past that distance. As I play with my Rem 700 UML I will give knurled .50 cal Hornady 300 gr FTX a shot to see how they shoot. The bullet out of the box slides down the bore without the assistance of the ramrod. Knurled, it has to be seated by the rod.
 
I have put a mic on the Hornady XTP and the Speer Gold Dots in .452 and they both measured .451. I picked up some old T/C PTX bullets and they measured .452. I was surprised to see the inconsistent measurements in these types of bullets. You would assume if it said. 452 on the box it would measure .452. Muzzleloader rifle manufacturers should be doing the same. Why do they do this to us? I do not have these issues with my center fire.
 

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