Who uses Wipeout?

ELKOHOLIC

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I just bought some and it seems to clean really well. I must say I have concerns about it though. For one, it seems really sticky and you want to make sure you keep it in the barrel and out of the action.

Second, I know there was a lot of talk early on about it rusting barrels. I thought it was wierd that they felt the need to put it on the can that it wouldn't rust the barrel and not to use any oil.

Trust me, I want this to work because it really cleans and it's easy. I guess I just want to her any good or bad that everyone else has experienced with it.
 
When brass stops ejecting it will likely be the wipeout which has gummed up your ejector spring. Happened to me twice before I stopped using it. Takes the finish off of wood stocks also. Does clean well though.
 
I use wipeout on barrels where the copper deposit is heavy and hard to get fully out in 30 minutes of using other copper removers. I let it set for about 8-12 hours with rifle in horizontal position. I also use 12 gauge cleaning patches to stuff in the chamber prior to use and that prevents the wipe out from getting into any area behind the lands and grooves of the barrel.
The worse barrel needed three aplications and 8 hours of setting beteen applications to remove all traces of copper.

RELH
 
I've tried most with a factory rem that fouled real bad after only one shot. Wipeout is the best for me. Not sure why you would have trouble with it, clean the gun before the bolt goes back in.
 
Because, if you are careless or have been drinking, one squirt in the wrong direction can really f*ck up next years hunting season. Pun intended.
 
Wipeout is a BORE cleaner, not a bolt cleaner. I tend not to drink when I clean my guns, or have any other outside distractions. Wipeout works well, but I only use it once in awhile. Normally just a good copper solvent. mtmuley
 
>Wipeout is a BORE cleaner, not
>a bolt cleaner. I tend
>not to drink when I
>clean my guns, or have
>any other outside distractions. Wipeout
>works well, but I only
>use it once in awhile.
>Normally just a good copper
>solvent. mtmuley


I'm not a gunsmith, and I don't play one on TV. One of us (probably me) is confusing the extractor spring and the ejector spring, or another part that I'm calling by the wrong name. My experience has to do with the receiver mounted ejector found in controlled feed actions.

The trouble I've had with wipeout is that when it gets into the action (not the bolt, not sure why someone would use bore cleaner to clean a bolt) it dries and leaves a residue which is almost a tar. And it only takes a dab to cause problems. I've had it gum up the receiver mounted ejector to where it won't rise to catch the brass as the bolt is retracted and the brass fails to eject. Basically turning a bolt action rifle into a single shot. The rifle must be taken apart and scrubbed out to get the residue off so the ejector will rise cleanly to catch the brass.

I started plugging the breech to keep it out, but found the foam would not expand as well to get down the barrel. You can also use a tube and shoot it in from the breach but then obviously you can't plug the breech.

Elkoholic asked for anyone's experience with the product. I made mistakes using it and don't want his rifle to fail in elk camp. My advice is to take great precautions to keep the stuff away from the action and wood stocks. Especially with a new can. I went back to CR-10 and don't miss the hassle one bit.

Sorry if I mixed up terms. If I misused a term RELH might clear it up. Sorry the attempt at levity apparently failed as well.
 
As I said above, I plug the chamber with enough large cleaning patches that prevents the wipeout from getting into the chamber or anywhere behind the chamber.
I use the tube and insert it into the barrel while the rifle is in a horizontal position and have no problem with getting the wipe out to fully fill the barrel. I find it easier to use then running a bunch of patches on a jag. I like the ideal that I can leave it overnight to do it's work without worrying about damage to the barrel that some other coppers removers will do because of the high amount of ammonia in them.

For best results use Hoppe's #9 solvent, or something similar, to clean the barrel of carbon. run a couple dry patches though the barrel, then use the wipe out.

RELH
 
As I recall I plugged the barrel but not tightly enough and a new can had enough pressure to push out the plug. Live and learn.
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-02-14 AT 00:05AM (MST)[p]I use it adn like it. Its pretty simple to clean your chamber with a mop soaked in acetone if you are worried about gumming up.

Rifles are such simple things to keep happy with just a little bit of thought..
 
Pre64, I have had the same experience with it. It was my fault and know that I have used it a few times I will be more careful with it.

It's funny that someone made an announcement at work to not be using this on any department weapons because of a bad experience that someone had with it. lol. You would think a glock would be pretty simple to clean with it!

Unless I missed it I don't think anyone mentioned the rust thing. I can't figure out where that came from or why it would do that, but I have heard it more than once. Any ideas?
 
The rust thing may have resulted because the user failed to run a oiled patch though the bore after using dry patches to remove the wipe out. Who knows!
RELH
 
I use a bore guide to make sure the WipeOut never gets in the action or on my bolt... It keeps the WipeOut in the barrel.

CSO

It's all about the good times...

MonsterMuleysLogo.png
 
I also use a bore guide and put a piece of a cotton ball in the end of it. I then spray the Wipeout into the muzzle and the cotton keeps it from reaching the action.
 
I've never sprayed from the muzzle..I realize wipeout no longer sells their product with a hose applicator, luckily I saved several from older cans.

IDK why they dont sell them with the hose applicator anymore, stupid. Maybe try some of the outers spray foam hoses and see if they will work on the wipeout can> (alltho the outers stuff works pretty good too)
 

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