Reloading sequence...

  • Thread starter coolspringoutfitters
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coolspringoutfitters

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I have been reloading for a while, but I am kind of self taught... I am wondering what order the professionals (you guys) do things... Here are all the things I do, but what order should they be in?
Tumble (and whats the best way to clean dust out of the casing)
Resize
Pull Primer
Trim Case
Seat Primer
Powder Charge
Seat Bullet
Take a Nap
I've also used the Sonic Cleaner on occasion... Where should that fit in?
Like I said, I would love some advice on when to do what, and any other good advice you would be willing to share... I guess more than anything, I would like to see how everyone else does it...
Thanks in advance,
CSO

It's all about the good times...

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I think your process is fine. A few things I'd note is you don't have to trim your cases every time. Also the book trim length is just a recommendation. You can measure your actual chamber length and trim to 010 short of that.
Do you do much initial brass prep? Chamfer case mouth? Cut primer pocket? Flashole debur?
Reloading can be as big of a process as you want to make it.
 
I don't think I'm a professional. I've been reloading for about 20 years and just in the last 5 or so I have been tumbling the brass. It looks like your sequence is fine. I am considering tumbling after resizing, I think it will remove the lube and provide a cleaner case after all is said and done. By doing this, I can remove any debris in the primer pocket when I de-bur the flash hole and clean out the primer pocket. It seems like trimming and all of the other case prep is just a little cleaner with no lube on the brass. I just recently bought a Lyman case prep device that really makes those steps go fast.
 
>I think your process is fine.
>A few things I'd note
>is you don't have to
>trim your cases every time.
>Also the book trim length
>is just a recommendation. You
>can measure your actual chamber
>length and trim to 010
>short of that.
>Do you do much initial brass
>prep? Chamfer case mouth? Cut
>primer pocket? Flashole debur?
>Reloading can be as big of
>a process as you want
>to make it.
I don't trim every time, just when needed... And when I do, I Chamfer after I trim.
As far as cutting the primer pockets and Flashhole deburring, I've never done it. I googled it and it seems like it could help out accuracy... AWESOME! It sounds like it only needs to be done once on each case? Is it easy to do?
Thanks for the response...

CSO

It's all about the good times...

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Captain_coues;

I do not like using the tumbler to clean lube from cases that just transfer the greasy lube to the tumbler media.
I bought a gallon of denatured alcohol from the hardware store and drop the sized lubed cases into a wide mouth gallon container and pour enough alcohol to cover the cases. screw the lid back on the container and slosh the cases around in the alcohol. I pour the used alcohol into another container and save it as it can be used several times to clean the lube from brass.
Remove the cases after pouring out the alcohol and let dry on a old towel or T-shirt. It will dry in under 1 hour in 70 degree weather. Only cases I do this to is bottle neck rifle cases that have to be lubed. All straight wall pistol cases I use carbide dies and do not have to lube them.

RELH
 
Primer pockets and flash holes can help accuracy. It only needs to be done once and is very easy. I also like to use the vld chamfer tool. It works great with all bullet types and makes a very clean cut. I tend to use quality brass like lapua or Norma and find it takes much less prep time with them.

If your process is producing ammo that is up to your accuracy standards then I'd say you are good.
 
LAST EDITED ON Jul-16-14 AT 08:32AM (MST)[p]Like said above. The one thing I do different is cleaning the case after the case is re sized and trimmed ready to load . To keep the dust out of your cases. You may want to move up to a stainless steel tumbler. I have grab one off the self at the store. Just haven't made it to the register yet. But soon!
 
Getting a handle on runout and annealing brass for tension consistency will do more for accuracy than just about anything.. But it is mostly overlooked.

Most guys are running crooked azz ammo, but chase their tails by switching up powder, primers etc.. It's kinda putting the cart before the horse, get your ammo straight and work from there.
 

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