new to reloading...please help

schoolhousegrizz

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I am new to reloading. I have been reloading a 300wsm using Hornady dies. Towards the bottom of the brass about a quarter inch up on the case there is a line where it looks the brass is a slightly different color or even a little angled. I am full length resizing. Any ideas what is going on? The brass still fits in my gun, it just seems slightly tight. Thanks for any help.
 
Your die doesn't come all the way to the belt so there will be a line at the bottom. you might want to check out just neck sizing you can extend your brass life.

You might also be seeing a separation line if you've fired these case a few times. this shows up before the case head comes off . take a paper clip or something like that and bend it so it fits in the case where the line shows up, see if you can feel a groove on the inside of the case. if you can toss it.















Stay thirsty my friends
 
Thanks. If it is because the die is not coming all the way down is there any negative effects that will cause accuracy problems or any other problems
 
LAST EDITED ON Sep-28-14 AT 09:43AM (MST)[p]That line or ring around the base of the brass could be nothing or can be the start of a case separation. Depends on how many times you have reloaded that brass after firing in your rifle.

Take a fine wire bend a small "L" shaped hook at one end and sharpen the point of that hook. Insert it into the brass case all the way to the bottom. With the sharpen hook contacting the case wall, drag the hook up. If it hangs up in the area you see the ring, you have the start of a case separation. One or more resizing and firing of the brass will cause the brass case to fully separate in the rifle chamber and you now have a problem of removing the front part of the case from the rifle. That brass is trash, get rid of it.

The cause of case separation is you do not have your sizing die adjusted right for that particular rifle you are shooting the reloaded ammo in. Some reloaders screw the sizing die all the way down to where it touches the case holder. BIG BIG MISTAKE! Doing this pushes the shoulder of the case too far back and firing that case causes the shoulder and case wall brass to flow forward to where it is stopped by the rifle chamber walls.

This flowing forward of the brass walls cause them to thin out just in front of the web, about 1/4 inch above the rim and repeated reloading and firing will cause a complete failure of the brass walls. That is if you continue to set the case shoulder too far back by improper sizing.

To set your sizing die for proper sizing do this. Take a black felt marker pen and blacken the entire neck of the case. Use a case that was fired in the rifle you are loading for. Lube the case. Screw in your sizing die and leave it about 1/4" above the shell holder. Size the case and look at the neck. You should see a line around the neck that shows that only part of the neck was sized down. Screw the sizing die one full turn and resize again and keep doing this until that line around the neck just kisses the junction where the neck and shoulder of the case meets. You only want to kiss the shoulder, not push it back.

Stop right there and try the case in your rifle to make sure it will chamber without heavy resistance. If it chambers ok, you have sized the case to fit that rifle, and that rifle only, to where your brass will not flow to the point of causing a case separation. Lock your sizing die in that position and reload your brass for that rifle. If you use the same dies to reload for another rifle, you have to do this all over again.

RELH
 
Full length sizing, but the majority of the sizing is done on the neck. I use it for both belted mags and non belted calibers and the brass will last for many reloads. The primer pockets will get loose before I have problems with anything else.

RELH
 
RELH,
Regarding this procedure you have outlined for re-sizing. I have a pet load for my 30-06. If I were to try the method you have explained in lieu of my usual full length re-sizing, will it change my point of impact any?
 
If it does, you will have a hard time telling the difference. My procedure helps to load more accurate ammo as that ammo is better fitted to the chamber of the rife then it would be if undersized while re-loading the ammo. Sure helps to extend the life of that brass that is getting more expensive today.

RELH
 
>RELH,
>Regarding this procedure you have outlined
>for re-sizing. I have a
>pet load for my 30-06.
>If I were to try
>the method you have explained
>in lieu of my usual
>full length re-sizing, will it
>change my point of impact
>any?


Keep in mind that not all chambers for a given cartridge have the same dimensions. I neck size only for four different .300s and they are not compatible with one another.
 
RELH, OK thanks. I will be heading out for a Mulie hunt soon and will need to load up some more rounds to take with me for just in case and probably no time to confirm any changes to POI. I didn't think it would but had to ask.

I have been following the directions with the dies and they always indicate to run the die in until contact with the shell holder then add another revolution to the dies further seating it deeper in the press. I always end up with a slightly noticeable ring near the case head after re-sizing with that procedure. I have recently understood that I could possibly not install the die so deep into the press but never knew how to properly gauge where to set it up at. Your instructions helped make it crystal clear, thanks!

feddoc, thanks for the thoughts and I totally get that every chamber is different. These rounds sized in this manner will only be fired from that rifle.

To the OP, thanks for starting the thread and sorry to slightly hi-jack it.
 

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