hounddawgs
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What brass does everyone use? I use mostly Remington and some win never had any problems I am trying some norma in my 338 win mag, question is there really much difference in brands of brass?
Brass
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Zeke
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Yes!
There's differences between brass brands. Some are thicker and heavier, others are lighter, some have tighter primer pockets and some are softer and some are harder. Some are even better (more consistent) and some are not so much... but the one thing you should know is this: NEVER MIX BRANDS OF BRASS BECAUSE IT COULD BE DANGEROUS OR PROMOTE POOR ACCURACY AT BEST.
Norma/Nosler is pretty good stuff. Lapua is the best and the balance can be worked into something usable if you're willing to prep it properly and you're unafraid to throw away the "Outliers".
Zeke
There's differences between brass brands. Some are thicker and heavier, others are lighter, some have tighter primer pockets and some are softer and some are harder. Some are even better (more consistent) and some are not so much... but the one thing you should know is this: NEVER MIX BRANDS OF BRASS BECAUSE IT COULD BE DANGEROUS OR PROMOTE POOR ACCURACY AT BEST.
Norma/Nosler is pretty good stuff. Lapua is the best and the balance can be worked into something usable if you're willing to prep it properly and you're unafraid to throw away the "Outliers".
Zeke
hounddawgs
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Thanks Zeke good info I don't mix my brass , didn't know about the thickness or weight nor the difference in primer pockets ,I am going to start using better brass like norma and nosler
Zeke
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Dawgs,
Don't be hasty dismissing Winchester or Remington brass, or hornady either. If you're willing to uniform and deburr flash holes, trim and/or check length and turn the neck for uniformity, you can get great brass.
Sometimes you have to know what you've got. For instance; Remington brass is harder than Nosler brass in the 300 RUM so to get the very highest velocities Rem should be used. For the most part, Winchester has more available volume, is also thinner and harder and better in some applications IMHO.
A good start is to weigh your brass and sort by weight amounts and you'll soon see you'll throw out about 10% right now. Then when you turn brass, some will have very thin necks and must be discarded too.
This is all just to add consistency to your pressure, even velocity and greater accuracy
Some think it totally unnessisary but others think it's SOP for top loads. Only you can decide but regardless, you're headed in the right direction.
Zeke
Don't be hasty dismissing Winchester or Remington brass, or hornady either. If you're willing to uniform and deburr flash holes, trim and/or check length and turn the neck for uniformity, you can get great brass.
Sometimes you have to know what you've got. For instance; Remington brass is harder than Nosler brass in the 300 RUM so to get the very highest velocities Rem should be used. For the most part, Winchester has more available volume, is also thinner and harder and better in some applications IMHO.
A good start is to weigh your brass and sort by weight amounts and you'll soon see you'll throw out about 10% right now. Then when you turn brass, some will have very thin necks and must be discarded too.
This is all just to add consistency to your pressure, even velocity and greater accuracy
Some think it totally unnessisary but others think it's SOP for top loads. Only you can decide but regardless, you're headed in the right direction.
Zeke
Millsworks
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Zeke hit the nail on the head.
Different brands of brass can be used for their strong points.
I load alot of 300 win. mag. and have had primer pockets wear out after only one loading in Federal but Remington brass last and last.
I have had good success with the Hornady brass in the magnums also.
The Winchester brass is a favorite of mine for .243 and .308 also.
It is mostly important to not mix brands. Consistency will sometimes be a problem with a brand in certain calibers only.
So, a quick weighing of brass can usually tell you what you got.
I trim all brass before I weigh it.
Different brands of brass can be used for their strong points.
I load alot of 300 win. mag. and have had primer pockets wear out after only one loading in Federal but Remington brass last and last.
I have had good success with the Hornady brass in the magnums also.
The Winchester brass is a favorite of mine for .243 and .308 also.
It is mostly important to not mix brands. Consistency will sometimes be a problem with a brand in certain calibers only.
So, a quick weighing of brass can usually tell you what you got.
I trim all brass before I weigh it.
hounddawgs
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Thanks I haven't weighed my brass, I will start though thanks Zeke I am going to start giving my brass a closers look
Captain_coues
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LAST EDITED ON Jul-26-17 AT 06:01AM (MST)[p]I use almost all makes. For my .270 and 280 AI, I use Nosler and Remington. 6.5 creedmoor I use Norma and Lapua.
I have two .223 rifles. One ?n an ar and another in a bolt. The bolt uses Lapua and I've found the best for the AR is PMC. I still use Remington and Lake City for the AR since I have around 3000 pcs. but they take a lot of trimming and de-burring and other work.
I shoot a 300 WBY and only use Weatherby brass for it.
A-Square for 338-06 AI.
Some of my rifles only take Remington or Winchester since no one else makes them like the 257 Roberts.
My opinion is that the European is the best. The American is just as good, but takes a lot of prep and sorting to get right where the euro is real close most of the time.
I have two .223 rifles. One ?n an ar and another in a bolt. The bolt uses Lapua and I've found the best for the AR is PMC. I still use Remington and Lake City for the AR since I have around 3000 pcs. but they take a lot of trimming and de-burring and other work.
I shoot a 300 WBY and only use Weatherby brass for it.
A-Square for 338-06 AI.
Some of my rifles only take Remington or Winchester since no one else makes them like the 257 Roberts.
My opinion is that the European is the best. The American is just as good, but takes a lot of prep and sorting to get right where the euro is real close most of the time.
Millsworks
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>When you guys are weighing your
>brass, what is the line
>that crossed that indicates to
>you that certain ones need
>to be tossed, or how
>far outside of the mean
>is unacceptable?
Personally, I feel that a + or - of 5gr. is about right margin.
Serious target shooting might want better, but we aren't talking about powder capacity here. Just the overall weight of the brass case, wich will indicate wall thickness relitively well.
This will help give a good uniformity of powder burn and yes it will many times mean more or less powder capacity.
But filling them with water to the top and then weighing them ( before and after) will be better tell on capacity.
>brass, what is the line
>that crossed that indicates to
>you that certain ones need
>to be tossed, or how
>far outside of the mean
>is unacceptable?
Personally, I feel that a + or - of 5gr. is about right margin.
Serious target shooting might want better, but we aren't talking about powder capacity here. Just the overall weight of the brass case, wich will indicate wall thickness relitively well.
This will help give a good uniformity of powder burn and yes it will many times mean more or less powder capacity.
But filling them with water to the top and then weighing them ( before and after) will be better tell on capacity.
freebird63
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In my 300 RUM I have used Nosler, Norma, Hornady and Bertram brass. I really like the Norma and Bertram brass.
Chuck in Boise
Chuck in Boise
hounddawgs
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What brands are European?
Zeke
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Lapua, Norma/Nosler, RWS (although I have not seen that one lately) to name a few I'm familiar with.
Remember, they're good but maybe not the best in All applications and they're not available in all cartridge configurations.
Like others have said, sort it and prep it and it all can be good stuff and a great start to custom ammunition. I'm well pleased right now with my Barnes 300 RUM brass (it's Remington) since its relatively uniform and consistent and has sufficient hardness to get the velocity I want without flowing.
Zeke
PS: I agree that +/- 5 grains from average is just fine for a hunting load. It'll surprise you since some lots are quite uniform and others are a bit more challenging to work with and you might have a few more waste cases.
Remember, they're good but maybe not the best in All applications and they're not available in all cartridge configurations.
Like others have said, sort it and prep it and it all can be good stuff and a great start to custom ammunition. I'm well pleased right now with my Barnes 300 RUM brass (it's Remington) since its relatively uniform and consistent and has sufficient hardness to get the velocity I want without flowing.
Zeke
PS: I agree that +/- 5 grains from average is just fine for a hunting load. It'll surprise you since some lots are quite uniform and others are a bit more challenging to work with and you might have a few more waste cases.
Captain_coues
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I agree it can all be good with the right prep and sorting. Don't be afraid to throw away some brass as well. I had a hard time doing that with new brass in the beginning even if it was a small amount. If you're not careful, you can have junk or otherwise undesirable brass laying around and that's not good when the goal is picking the best. Like Zeke said, it's an OCD thing, it's not about time or money. I agree with that and will have a good time with any brass weather it's Remington or Lapua. I think brass prep and sorting is my favorite part of reloading.
Millsworks
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Being a very cost minded person ,I hate to discard any brass , especially new. But, when they gotta go, they gotta go.
I smash my rejected brass to keep it from getting mixed up.
I have saved it all to sell as scrap in the past.
Scrap prices aren't worth the trouble now.
It is tuff to melt down brass, but people with a hot enough foundry might be interested in taking it from you.
I don't ever have many discarded these days, so I just pitch them.
I smash my rejected brass to keep it from getting mixed up.
I have saved it all to sell as scrap in the past.
Scrap prices aren't worth the trouble now.
It is tuff to melt down brass, but people with a hot enough foundry might be interested in taking it from you.
I don't ever have many discarded these days, so I just pitch them.
