So my problem is when I'm set and holding the target my twenty yard pin is perfect but when I'm shooting out to 30, 40, 50 etc I feel like I have to push the bow up to get it to the correct pin. make sense? so when I push up it hurries me, and I feel I never get solid and set. I think my problem is my draw length is too long? that's just my thinking I may be way off. Help me if ya can! Thanks
Too long of draw length?
- Thread starter hezzy
- Start date
huntindad4
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 2,608
Not exactly sure what you are saying. My advice would be to draw and hold on an uphill target if you can't hold comfortably then you are probably too long. Just one thing I have noticed in the past with a bow that was borderline too long for me.
Bill
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People who work for a living are quickly being
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LAST EDITED ON Mar-04-14 AT 04:29PM (MST)[p]Go ring to ring with your peep and pin housing. That allows you to keep your anchor point the same as you shoot longer yardage pins.
And if you think your DL is too long, it probably is. Back it off a 1/2" and see how you do.
And if you think your DL is too long, it probably is. Back it off a 1/2" and see how you do.
my release is as short as I can comfortably shoot it.
I noticed tonight while shooting that at 20 and 30 i'm good but as soon as I get to 40 it gets harder to hold that pin on target it wants to creep down. then 50 its worse than 40 and so on. worse and worse as i get further away.
and when I get on target I'm always having to bring the pins up to the target never when I get back to full draw and locate the target am I bringing it down onto target.
I'm shooting a Bowtech Sentinel. which I hear is pretty easy to adjust draw length. I may have to just try it.
Thanks
I noticed tonight while shooting that at 20 and 30 i'm good but as soon as I get to 40 it gets harder to hold that pin on target it wants to creep down. then 50 its worse than 40 and so on. worse and worse as i get further away.
and when I get on target I'm always having to bring the pins up to the target never when I get back to full draw and locate the target am I bringing it down onto target.
I'm shooting a Bowtech Sentinel. which I hear is pretty easy to adjust draw length. I may have to just try it.
Thanks
wileywapati
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 1,808
What you are experiencing is common with
Tree stand hunters that shoot steep downward
Shots.
Most will adjust form by using arms only.
For proper form you want upper body to be
As consistently placed as possible. Dudes that
Shoot from an elevated stand soon realize that
The motion must come from the waist or anchor
Point wanders along with draw length to a certain
Degree.
Either way, a form issue or a length issue that
Doesn't feel right kills confidence and will result
In punching the release the minute the pin gets
Anywhere the target.
If your pin gap is tight enough to prevent sailing
An arrow over your target move up to 20 yards
And try shooting it with one of the longer pins like
40 or 50. My old Mathews LX pin gap from 20-60 is
About an inch, meaning that my bow hand should
Only move about an inch in shooting short or long
Distance.
My personal opinion is if form is consistent
You are probably psyching yourself out and
Maybe a bit overdrawn.
Sorry for the drawn out response.
WW
"The future is large scale auction tags.
The majority of the tags should go up
for auction anually. It MIGHT even be
good to allow second sales of auction
tags as in outfitters purchasing tags
and then re-selling them to the public."
TRISTATE 8/17/2012
Tree stand hunters that shoot steep downward
Shots.
Most will adjust form by using arms only.
For proper form you want upper body to be
As consistently placed as possible. Dudes that
Shoot from an elevated stand soon realize that
The motion must come from the waist or anchor
Point wanders along with draw length to a certain
Degree.
Either way, a form issue or a length issue that
Doesn't feel right kills confidence and will result
In punching the release the minute the pin gets
Anywhere the target.
If your pin gap is tight enough to prevent sailing
An arrow over your target move up to 20 yards
And try shooting it with one of the longer pins like
40 or 50. My old Mathews LX pin gap from 20-60 is
About an inch, meaning that my bow hand should
Only move about an inch in shooting short or long
Distance.
My personal opinion is if form is consistent
You are probably psyching yourself out and
Maybe a bit overdrawn.
Sorry for the drawn out response.
WW
"The future is large scale auction tags.
The majority of the tags should go up
for auction anually. It MIGHT even be
good to allow second sales of auction
tags as in outfitters purchasing tags
and then re-selling them to the public."
TRISTATE 8/17/2012
K
KillaB
Guest
"Most will adjust form by using arms only.
For proper form you want upper body to be
As consistently placed as possible. Dudes that
Shoot from an elevated stand soon realize that
The motion must come from the waist or anchor
Point wanders along with draw length to a certain
Degree."
BINGO
Also, keep elbow slightly bent and try shooting with an open palm for better stability. Don't use so much wrist, rest the handle onto the palm of your hand instead for less torque issues and make sure that you're not slapping your forearm either, that would be a dead signal for the long draw length.
For proper form you want upper body to be
As consistently placed as possible. Dudes that
Shoot from an elevated stand soon realize that
The motion must come from the waist or anchor
Point wanders along with draw length to a certain
Degree."
BINGO
Also, keep elbow slightly bent and try shooting with an open palm for better stability. Don't use so much wrist, rest the handle onto the palm of your hand instead for less torque issues and make sure that you're not slapping your forearm either, that would be a dead signal for the long draw length.
L
lucaar
Guest
Actually, bent elbow is less stable than a locked (bone on bone) bow arm. The more you need muscle to stabilize, the less steady you will be. There are very few people that get to their full accuracy potential with a bent arm. Look at how 95% of pro's shoot. Extended arm, low wrist grip (to the right of the life line on your palm if you are right handed), humerus in the socket (open or slightly open stance) is more stable. If you are slapping your arm, your DL is too long, or your stance it neutral or closed. Open stance can help with this. My experience is that 99% of the average people I see shooting their DL it too long. Most people don't even know what the actual DL of their bow really is. Just because it is set at a certain cam setting or you have a certain DL cam on the bow does not mean that is what the actual DL is. Some manufactures are up to 1" long. You need to get your bow on a hooter shooter or a draw board to check. Good rule of thumb is take wingspan and divide by 2.5. Then have someone that actually knows how to tell of your DL is too long look at your form and your shot then adjust from there. Then test. I had to shorten 1/2" to get my body in the correct position to really start shooting well. You would be amazed how much more stable you can be with a DL that is correct. Not saying this is your problem cause I have not seen you shoot but may be worth looking into.
Lucaar,
I respectfully disagree with you on the bone on bone elbow theory. That may have been true years ago prior to solid draw stops but it isn't anymore. And a slightly bent elbow is the way to go. Once the draw stop is hit and the anchor point set every time bone on bone is not in the equations any longer. You are now at a wall and will be there every time which cannot be said for the bow of yesterday without draw stops which is why bone on bone WAS more accurate. This is simply not true anymore.
Try finding something that you can compress around your arm but will keep you warm in 10 below zero and tell me how bone on bone straight arm works for you. IMO with the new technology of today?s bows some of the old target coaches need to change along with it. The result of the draw stops to a solid wall has changed accuracy and that need for bone on bone mentality. The drawback to a bent elbow? You may have a slightly shorter DL/arrow.
GBA
I respectfully disagree with you on the bone on bone elbow theory. That may have been true years ago prior to solid draw stops but it isn't anymore. And a slightly bent elbow is the way to go. Once the draw stop is hit and the anchor point set every time bone on bone is not in the equations any longer. You are now at a wall and will be there every time which cannot be said for the bow of yesterday without draw stops which is why bone on bone WAS more accurate. This is simply not true anymore.
Try finding something that you can compress around your arm but will keep you warm in 10 below zero and tell me how bone on bone straight arm works for you. IMO with the new technology of today?s bows some of the old target coaches need to change along with it. The result of the draw stops to a solid wall has changed accuracy and that need for bone on bone mentality. The drawback to a bent elbow? You may have a slightly shorter DL/arrow.
GBA
L
lucaar
Guest
If a bent elbow is the way to go then why do the vast majority of the top archers in the world go bone on bone?
Maybe because everyone of them shoot in fair weather or indoors? Maybe because they don't hunt and have to put on extra clothing?? Maybe because they haven't figured out that there is a wall at the bow draw stop so they don't have to go bone on bone, Maybe to increase confidence, or maybe its just because they can.
But to say they are more accurate with today?s bows with bone on bone IMO is just not the case anymore. The draw is the same at the wall, the consistency is the same at every draw so long as you do your part with your archer. Now if these archers can't find the wall and at a bent elbow and move their bow arm in and out that's an entirely different story. Bone on bone was developed to keep the bow arm from giving thus creating change in constancy shooting. The wall/hard draw stop on today?s bows have eliminated the need for that.
One more note, a target archer and a hunter are not really comparing apples to apples either. There arent too many hunters out there with a 4 foot stabilzer sticking out the front of there bows or shooting 40lbs with light arrows.
GBA
But to say they are more accurate with today?s bows with bone on bone IMO is just not the case anymore. The draw is the same at the wall, the consistency is the same at every draw so long as you do your part with your archer. Now if these archers can't find the wall and at a bent elbow and move their bow arm in and out that's an entirely different story. Bone on bone was developed to keep the bow arm from giving thus creating change in constancy shooting. The wall/hard draw stop on today?s bows have eliminated the need for that.
One more note, a target archer and a hunter are not really comparing apples to apples either. There arent too many hunters out there with a 4 foot stabilzer sticking out the front of there bows or shooting 40lbs with light arrows.
GBA
L
lucaar
Guest
Sorry, gonna disagree with you. Most of these guys hunt too. They hunt a lot. There is a reason Levi Morgan, Randy Ulmer, Reo Wilde, Jesse Broadwater, Chance etc. shoot the way they do. Nothing at all to do with draw stops it has to do with physics. I don't know where you are getting your info but you are way off. Bent elbow may work for you that's fine but if you eliminate muscle involvement you might hold steadier and be more consistent. I know I am, the pro's are, and pretty much every successful archery coach on the planet will tell you do do the same. You must have enough success and experience to be able to argue differently. I know that I don't so I will listen.
