This offseason I'm trying to figure out the best arrow setup I possibly can for Elk and would appreciate any opinions or thoughts you guys had. I currently shoot FMJ's but have been considering a few other arrows. Does anyone know much about Black Eagles? I want to shoot a fixed blade 125 grain head and would appreciate any thoughts on possible choices. I've heard your FOC % can have a large impact on your arrow penetration, does anyone look for a specific FOC or have any tips or advice when building killer arrows?
Building an ELK Arrow!
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Elkslayer1125
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I currently use the FMJ with 125 grain head and love it. Awesome penetration.
I think the FMJ shoots great out of the box for a while, but I've noticed after I've shot it a few hundred times my grouping will start to decline and I'll get a few flyers. It's an aluminum arrow and I've heard they'll bend after so much wear and tear. I'm not ruling them out but also looking to see if there's anything out there a little more durable
>I think the FMJ shoots great
>out of the box for
>a while, but I've noticed
>after I've shot it a
>few hundred times my grouping
>will start to decline and
>I'll get a few flyers.
>It's an aluminum arrow and
>I've heard they'll bend after
>so much wear and tear.
>I'm not ruling them out
>but also looking to see
>if there's anything out there
>a little more durable
+1 I switched to the Easton axis ,great shaft and I am using the rage 4 blade.
>out of the box for
>a while, but I've noticed
>after I've shot it a
>few hundred times my grouping
>will start to decline and
>I'll get a few flyers.
>It's an aluminum arrow and
>I've heard they'll bend after
>so much wear and tear.
>I'm not ruling them out
>but also looking to see
>if there's anything out there
>a little more durable
+1 I switched to the Easton axis ,great shaft and I am using the rage 4 blade.
leftturnabq
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I have the same concerns with the FMJ. If I could afford to replace them regularly, I'd go that route, but...
I recently tried the Black Eagle Rampage, and while they hit hard and penterated well, I was not impressed with durability nor longer range accuracy.
I am currently shooting Gold Tip Hunter Pro shafts. While not a small diameter shaft, they have proven both durable and consistently accurate. I am shooting 100 grain broadhead with 20 grains added to the insert.
I recently tried the Black Eagle Rampage, and while they hit hard and penterated well, I was not impressed with durability nor longer range accuracy.
I am currently shooting Gold Tip Hunter Pro shafts. While not a small diameter shaft, they have proven both durable and consistently accurate. I am shooting 100 grain broadhead with 20 grains added to the insert.
trophyhunter
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Our Group all have shot FMJ's for years have most of the same arrows for 10 years...never experienced any flyer or group issues.....sure one can damage an arrow I damaged one by pulling it out of a target incorrectly....not pulling straight back will bend it....costly mistake....$$$
leftturnabq
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Allow me to add more on my opinion with the FMJ:
By design, they hit hard; very high GPI.
Aluminum arrows can be built to a tighter tolerance than fiber arrows, therefore accuracy can be optimized.
The downside to any aluminum arrow is that they will eventually bend with regular use.
Whereas carbon fiber arrows have a "memory" and will pretty much return to original straightness and tolerate much more abuse (yanking from targets).
I have found Gold Tip to be some the most durable arrows I've used.
Having said tgat, if I were to persue serious big game (large bears, African game), I'd probably have FMJ'S in my quiver, but the arrows in my hunting quiver would not be the same arrows I practice with.
By design, they hit hard; very high GPI.
Aluminum arrows can be built to a tighter tolerance than fiber arrows, therefore accuracy can be optimized.
The downside to any aluminum arrow is that they will eventually bend with regular use.
Whereas carbon fiber arrows have a "memory" and will pretty much return to original straightness and tolerate much more abuse (yanking from targets).
I have found Gold Tip to be some the most durable arrows I've used.
Having said tgat, if I were to persue serious big game (large bears, African game), I'd probably have FMJ'S in my quiver, but the arrows in my hunting quiver would not be the same arrows I practice with.
trophyhunter
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We acutally do that....three dozen just for practice...three dozen set aside just for hunting....numbered arrows so if something seems off one can dial in on a specific arrow....
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In my opinion the Hunter XT are really great arrow shafts. Trophy Taker Shuttle-T broad heads are awesome as well. I shot a huge bull with this shaft and broad head this last season and had no penetration problems at all. The arrow went straight through and he dropped about 100 yards away. I use 100 grain, but I'm sure 125 is great too.
I think you're better off spending your extra time shooting rather than trying to build a better arrow, but if the challenge of figuring things like that out is your thing then you should go for it. Good luck with whatever you choose to hunt with.
I think you're better off spending your extra time shooting rather than trying to build a better arrow, but if the challenge of figuring things like that out is your thing then you should go for it. Good luck with whatever you choose to hunt with.
leftturnabq
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I've had great success with the Gold Tip Hunter XT's as well. I shot them for years and was very pleased with their durability and fit to my overall setup.
The only reason I changed from them last year is because I was fortunate enough to upgrade to a new, top-of-the-line bow. So I went looking for a top end arrow and ended up back with Gold Tip, just with their tighter tolerance Hunter Pro.
However, I am fairly meticulous with my arrows, and believe they are one the most critical components of it all; it's all about getting that arrow to do what it's supposed to do, and once launched from the bow, it's all about the arrow.
The only reason I changed from them last year is because I was fortunate enough to upgrade to a new, top-of-the-line bow. So I went looking for a top end arrow and ended up back with Gold Tip, just with their tighter tolerance Hunter Pro.
However, I am fairly meticulous with my arrows, and believe they are one the most critical components of it all; it's all about getting that arrow to do what it's supposed to do, and once launched from the bow, it's all about the arrow.
Gold tips website has a foc calulator.
I tried 4mm Fmj but to get foc to 12% it made the arrow weight well over 600 grains. Penetrated like no other but wanted an arrow under 500 grains so I switched to vaps with 95gr steel insets and 100 grain broad head. Waiting to shoot them with an foc of 17%.
I tried 4mm Fmj but to get foc to 12% it made the arrow weight well over 600 grains. Penetrated like no other but wanted an arrow under 500 grains so I switched to vaps with 95gr steel insets and 100 grain broad head. Waiting to shoot them with an foc of 17%.
COLOhunter
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I shoot the FMJ's as well. I was really impressed with the penetration on my bull last year.
I do the same as trophyhunter...a dozen for practice and a dozen set aside for hunting.
I do the same as trophyhunter...a dozen for practice and a dozen set aside for hunting.
leftturnabq
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I am a believer in the G5 Montec. It is very solid, and more that that, every single one spins perfect right out of the box.
Some are concerned with sharpness, but that can be remedied with a little work, and we've had no issued in regards to penetration.
It's been a very solid, reliable broadhead, that flies excellent for me.
Some are concerned with sharpness, but that can be remedied with a little work, and we've had no issued in regards to penetration.
It's been a very solid, reliable broadhead, that flies excellent for me.
So thought I'd give you guys an update on the arrow testing I've been doing the last month. I went to wilde arrow up here in Centerville and a few of the guys I talked to really seemed to like the new Victory VAP arrows. I bought six of them and decided to test them against my current FMJ setup. Each was tipped with 125 grain fieldpoint, the FMJ had a little less FOC, but was heavier than the VAP. The FMJ was about 430 grains and the VAP was at 405. After a month of shooting, both seem to group the same, but the VAP is definitely getting better penetration. Each time I go to pull the arrows out of either the Roofing Foam block or my 3D deer target, the VAP's are buried 1-2 inches further than the FMJ's. I think I'm going to stick with Victory this season and see how it goes. Now I need to decide on a broad head, the Slick Tricks might be my next purchase. I really like G5 montecs but I hear Slick Tricks fly much more like your field point does. Any opinions about fixed blades?
>Now I need to decide
>on a broad head, the
>Slick Tricks might be my
>next purchase. I really like
>G5 montecs but I hear
>Slick Tricks fly much more
>like your field point does.
>Any opinions about fixed blades?
I've shot both and don't think you could go wrong with either. I'm shooting the STs this year because I prefer the replaceable blades. I like to shoot BHs a lot during the months leading up to the opener and that is all I shoot once the season starts. With that said, if you bend a blade on the Montecs you can't fix em, but they are a stout head for sure.
Any broadhead, fixed or mech, will fly like a field if shot out of a properly tuned bow. Even if you are going to shoot a mech, tune with a fixed blade to make sure your bow is shooting lights out!
>on a broad head, the
>Slick Tricks might be my
>next purchase. I really like
>G5 montecs but I hear
>Slick Tricks fly much more
>like your field point does.
>Any opinions about fixed blades?
I've shot both and don't think you could go wrong with either. I'm shooting the STs this year because I prefer the replaceable blades. I like to shoot BHs a lot during the months leading up to the opener and that is all I shoot once the season starts. With that said, if you bend a blade on the Montecs you can't fix em, but they are a stout head for sure.
Any broadhead, fixed or mech, will fly like a field if shot out of a properly tuned bow. Even if you are going to shoot a mech, tune with a fixed blade to make sure your bow is shooting lights out!
leftturnabq
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Not trying to start anything, but if you bend a blade on a Montec...it wouldn't matter what broadhead you put that level of impact on, I wouldn't reuse it.
>Not trying to start anything, but
>if you bend a blade
>on a Montec...it wouldn't matter
>what broadhead you put that
>level of impact on, I
>wouldn't reuse it.
Agreed.
It was just my experience that IF you had blade to blade contact in a target (which I did as I shoot BHs a lot), you'd render both broadheads un-usable. With a replaceable head, as long as the ferrule does not get contacted/damaged, you could reload it with fresh blades and it would still spin true.
>if you bend a blade
>on a Montec...it wouldn't matter
>what broadhead you put that
>level of impact on, I
>wouldn't reuse it.
Agreed.
It was just my experience that IF you had blade to blade contact in a target (which I did as I shoot BHs a lot), you'd render both broadheads un-usable. With a replaceable head, as long as the ferrule does not get contacted/damaged, you could reload it with fresh blades and it would still spin true.
leftturnabq
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I shoot a 5 spot target for that reason. For me, arrows are too expensive to be clipping them together like that.
trophyhunter
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With our Strikers which Ive been told is just a nockoff of the ST's we have our practice heads then our hunting head are out of the box razer sharp, if we shoot game we replace the blades back to perfect razer sharp.
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joesikora
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LAST EDITED ON Apr-14-17 AT 04:15PM (MST)[p]Hi all, since writing my post here on the 5th, I've drawn a archery elk tag in NM, so I have some questions.
What does FMJ stand for?
When shooting into a block type broad head target with practice G5 tips do you just pull the arrow straight back to remove it? I just think it would destroy the target really fast.
My bow weight is 60-70 lbs so what brand/specs would you all recommend for arrows using 100 gr G5 with the ability to reach out to 60-70 yds?
I've had good luck with Quick Spin fletching, they seem to be very forgiving and accurate. The only problem was I used a Whisker Biscuit and it would wrinkle the vanes
Thanks for your time
Joe
"Sometimes you do things wrong for so long you
think their right" - 2001
"I can't argue with honesty" - 2005
-Joe E Sikora
What does FMJ stand for?
When shooting into a block type broad head target with practice G5 tips do you just pull the arrow straight back to remove it? I just think it would destroy the target really fast.
My bow weight is 60-70 lbs so what brand/specs would you all recommend for arrows using 100 gr G5 with the ability to reach out to 60-70 yds?
I've had good luck with Quick Spin fletching, they seem to be very forgiving and accurate. The only problem was I used a Whisker Biscuit and it would wrinkle the vanes
Thanks for your time
Joe
"Sometimes you do things wrong for so long you
think their right" - 2001
"I can't argue with honesty" - 2005
-Joe E Sikora
leftturnabq
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FMJ = Easton Full Metal Jacket
Broadheads are tough on targets. No way around that really.
I use a 3" right helical vane with my 100 grain G5 Montec.
I also favor a drop away rest.
Broadheads are tough on targets. No way around that really.
I use a 3" right helical vane with my 100 grain G5 Montec.
I also favor a drop away rest.
TerynItUp
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I used to shoot a whisker biscuit and switched to a drop away last year when I bought my Halon. I was nervous about the idea of a drop away but now am so glad I did. It might be all in my head or could be the bow (my old bow was 14 years old) but I am shooting much much better now.
This was a good thread, I have shot two elk and a bear with my current arrow set up (Beman Carbon Hunters with 100gr Wac Em fixed blades) and achieved pass throughs on all three but VERY little blood. Do you all think that is more of a shot placement thing or could it have something to do with my arrow/BH set up? I like the way they shoot but am not opposed to mixing things up this fall if there is room for improvement.
Hunt Hard. Shoot Straight. Kill Clean. Apologize to No One.
This was a good thread, I have shot two elk and a bear with my current arrow set up (Beman Carbon Hunters with 100gr Wac Em fixed blades) and achieved pass throughs on all three but VERY little blood. Do you all think that is more of a shot placement thing or could it have something to do with my arrow/BH set up? I like the way they shoot but am not opposed to mixing things up this fall if there is room for improvement.
Hunt Hard. Shoot Straight. Kill Clean. Apologize to No One.
leftturnabq
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I shoot the bow, with the exception of the Hooter Shooter machine,or whatever it's called.
joesikora
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Just a thought! I've noticed that a lot of the arrow makers talk about complete pass through, is this really a good thing? Doesn't the broadhead cause more cuts/damage when still in the animal?
What say you all ?
Joe
"Sometimes you do things wrong for so long you
think their right" - 2001
"I can't argue with honesty" - 2005
-Joe E Sikora
What say you all ?
Joe
"Sometimes you do things wrong for so long you
think their right" - 2001
"I can't argue with honesty" - 2005
-Joe E Sikora
2 holes vs 1. Easier to find blood if it's pouring out of both sides.
Sure, if the blades are still in the animal they'll continue to cut, but that arrow shaft is aiding in plugging up the only hole you made.
A well placed shot will kill your quarry, but if they don't die in sight I'd much prefer 2 holes pumping blood on the ground to find the animal easily.
Sure, if the blades are still in the animal they'll continue to cut, but that arrow shaft is aiding in plugging up the only hole you made.
A well placed shot will kill your quarry, but if they don't die in sight I'd much prefer 2 holes pumping blood on the ground to find the animal easily.
leftturnabq
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^^^What he said.^^^
Yeah, the broadhead being moved around by the arrow shaft as the animals runs is going to create more trauma, but you also want maximum penetration, especially on larger game like elk. No animal can survive having both lungs deflated.
Yeah, the broadhead being moved around by the arrow shaft as the animals runs is going to create more trauma, but you also want maximum penetration, especially on larger game like elk. No animal can survive having both lungs deflated.
