Antlers mispostioned ?

CWeeks · May 5, 2014

Got my elk back this weekend and the antlers are tilted too far forward and seem set too low in mount. Is it possible to go back at this point and reposition? Didn't say anything when I picked up as taxidermist is a friend and didn't want to offend, but just don't think I can put on wall and be happy with the mount.

nmtaxi · May 5, 2014

Yes, they can be re-positioned- easy fix as long as there is wall clearance.

CWeeks · May 5, 2014

Thanks, I can shoot em and cape em, but my knowledge ends there as far as taxy work goes.

FullCryHounds · May 5, 2014

I think you are right, they look too far forward. The tips should be almost touching the wall. It can be fixed but it will not be easy to do it right. The cape will have to be rehydrated so it is soft again. This will take a couple of days, then remove the stitching and any clay so you can get to the screws holding the skull plate down. You will also have to remove the eyes since they will have to be repositioned also. Once the skull plate/antlers are removed, they can be shimmed and positioned correctly. Then reset the eyes and sew back up. Redo the finish work around the eyes and you shouldn't be able to tell. But get a good taxidermist to do it so you don't have any other problems.

WVHUNTER · May 6, 2014

http://www.monstermuleys.info/dcforum/DCForumID47/658.html#.U2jZ_jfQeAg

Take a look at this link from an earlier poster. It looks like he had the same issues you have and he got it fixed.

CWeeks · May 7, 2014

Taxy says he placed antlers forward to clear the wall when mounted. Odd that they even make a form that would require this to clear the wall. Do they make different size forms in a left turn that extend further? Heck, it's only a 300 bull, hate to know what it would look like if I had gotten one of those 340+ bulls I drew on earlier in the hunt.

FullCryHounds · May 7, 2014

That picture doesn't look like the tips are near the wall. How far from the wall are they? They should be less then an inch. I think he's BSing you for poor workmanship. There's all kinds of ways to make antlers fit without tilting them forward so it isn't even close to be natural. Should I assume this is a guy with very little experience?

WVHUNTER · May 8, 2014

Most elk now days are mounted in a semi sneak position, not many would be in an upright position. But all of the semi sneak forms aren't equal. I think yours is a semi sneak form but on some of these the top of the head is about level with the top of the shoulder which gives more clearance. On yours the top of the head looks to be a few inches higher than the top of the shoulder.

They do make offset forms that give more clearance(they are called offset forms). But for really long antlers a lot of people are going with full sneak or pedestals.

I don't know if there is any room to work with on yours or not.

A couple of options for yours.

1) Start over with a new form, but your cape may be too short for this.

2) Rehydrate the cape and move the antlers to the correct position and if they hit the wall make a pedestal out of it.

I agree that yours are out of position also.

CWeeks · May 8, 2014

Measured the distance at just over 6 inches when placed against wall, is this enough room to adjust and make it look natural?

FullCryHounds · May 9, 2014

6" is a lot. They should end up being around an inch from the wall. I've mounted several hundred elk in a similar position/form and they all end up about an inch or so from the wall, never 6". Have it fixed, you'll be happy with it.

CWeeks · May 9, 2014

Thanks for the help, maybe it will be a reasonable cost to fix since the form shouldn't have to be altered.

oilcan · May 11, 2014

"I agree that yours are out of position also"
+1
Hope your able to get it fixed it should make a nice mount.

CWeeks · Jul 21, 2014

Thought I'd give an update on the elk project. Had a friend to build a box out of old barn wood and got the necessary clearance I needed for the antlers without having to do a pedestal mount. Doesn't match the other elk, but then again, I've got other animals around the room, some with plaques and some without. Learned to look close at the form I choose before mounting another one, hope that will be another problem one day. Good Hunting

Tristate · Aug 13, 2014

Cweeks,

I am glad everything worked out for you. As a taxidermist I have seen this problem presented several times over the years on the internet. I am not specifically picking on your mount but I have been biting my tongue so to speak each time I see this happen and read everyone's advice on what makes it right.

First let me state that when antlers are set properly there is no distance from the wall in which they should be in juxtaposition with. The most important thing that any taxidermist needs to pay attention to is proper skull, not antler, placement on the form. This will insure that anatomically the elk will be correct. Antler tilt and beam length will vary widely amongst individuals but skull placement will not. At this point most taxidermists who have mounted a few bulls will say , "But now the beam tips will run into the wall!" That's right unless you know what you are doing and you take the time to pull out your saw and alter the tilt of the entire head so the beam tips will have clearance.

The simple fact is that most taxidermists either find it easier to not take the time and do this procedure correctly or they are over their head when it comes to making form alterations.

CWeeks · Aug 22, 2014

Tristate,
Is there a time limit on how long I could go before having the mount repaired, as I'm still not really pleased with my solution. Problem is son number 2 just got braces, truck needed new tires before leaving for Co in 3 weeks, and so on, and don't thing the wife will be too receptive to paying to remount at this time. Thanks for the advise.

Tristate · Aug 30, 2014

Cweeks,

Your question is good but doesn't really have a good answer. Depending on what processes were used in preserving the skin, determines how much re-work can be done at a later date. If the skin was commercially tanned then more than likely you may have anywhere from six months to eighteen months to re-hydrate and re-work the mount. I know that this may not be what you want to hear but a good taxidermist would begin hydrating the skin and slowly watching for hair loss while the skin hydrates. There is a possibility that the skin could start to fall apart and then you would have to purchase an extra cape and complete remount. Feel free to call me at my office sometime and maybe I can explain some of the risks better.

(713)-465-7388

Cheers,

Ben