Best Knife Sharpener

T

thebroker

Guest
I am looking to buy a good semi commercial grade knife sharpener system. Anyone had any experience or suggestions. I plan to use it only at home set up in the shop. Just tired of paying a couple hundred bucks a year to have it professionally done. I have all the butcher knives and my hunting knives so would like one versatile enough to do them all.
 
WORKSHARP!!!!!!!!!!!!


http://www.worksharptools.com/sportsmans-sharpener.html

This is the best sharpener out there. It will sharpen anything to be razor sharp. I even had the knife slip out of the hide of an elk and hit my knee and land me with 12 stitches.

The first month or so I got this sharpener, I had no hair on my arms because I would test how sharp they were. I honestly would say i can shave my face with the knifes i have sharpened with the worksharp

My advise is to buy an extra pack of belts when you buy the sharpener.
 
just buy a havalon and skip the sharpening altogether? when i dont have my havalon, i use a lanski (spelling?) system its cheap but i can sharpen a 1.5" blade up to a 6" blade and its easy to pack also.



"Shoot Straight"
 
ms52, what kind of money are you talking to get that kit. It says to call for a price, i'm not going there.

I must have 20 stones of various types. Grandpa spent a good deal of time learning me how to put and keep a good edge on a knife. He was one never to carry a knife that wasn't razor sharp. It does at times take lot of effort though, time that i do enjoy, but i could see looking for a better easier way as i seem to not be as good at it, like a lot of things, as i once was.

Joey


"It's all about knowing what your firearms practical limitations are and combining that with your own personal limitations!"
 
I'll second the "Worksharp" system. You can go to youtube and see demos there how it works. I gave one to my youngest son, who lives over a hour away and it is a hassle for him to bring the knives to me to resharpen.

In making my custom knives I use a similar system to sharpen my knives with a convex edge as the "worksharp" does. The only idfference is I use 2"X48" belts and a $450.00 grinder to do it. Cabela's sell the Woorksharp for 99 bucks, you can get them new in the box on Ebay for 69-70 bucks.

It comes with 80, 220 grit belts and a 6000 grit honing belt. You do not need the 80 grit unless you have to re-profile the cutting edge of the knife blade.

Some guys will tell you that they will never use sanding belts to sharpen their knives because it will take the temper out of them. Bull$hit a lot of custom knife makers use that system because it is fast and puts a convex razor sharp edge on the blade. The only way you will take the temper out is if you are a heavy handed baboon and use a lot of pressure and fail to pull the knife though as you sharpen. You have to heat carbon steel to 450 degrees or higher to remove the temper, and stainless steel will have to be heated to over 600 degrees before you start removing the temper.

Give it a try and you will not go back to the other slow systems. Even persons who can hold the proper angle on a stone and get a sharp knife, will be able to get a sharp knife with the Workshop system. It has several guides that will get you the perfect angle for your sharp edge.

RELH
 
Nothing better than a worksharp. I consider myself pretty good at handsharpening a knife and I can't get the edge a worksharp does. That convex edge makes all the difference in the world and you can sharpen 15-20 knives in the time it takes to do one with a stone.

I had a booth next to the worksharp booth last year and just figured it was another gimmick until the 2nd day he sharpened my knife. I bought one right then and won't use anything else unless I don't have a power outlet.

It's the real deal. If you doubt it, many dealers have one set up to sharpen your own knife. Try it, you'll buy one. Same company as the Drill Dr.
 
LAST EDITED ON Jan-31-13 AT 07:49PM (MST)[p]muleyslayer, I hear you on having no hair on the arms for the first month. I'm sure Bessy will soon be posting photos of his manscaping, thanks to his worksharp.
 
Hopeing it's not an older GERBER you're trying to Sharpen?

I've got a GERBER that has kicked many a Knife Sharpeners Asses!

Don't know what the Deal is with it?

Me & RELH have discussed it a few times!

Had one Pro Knife Sharpener get extremely mad at my knife,He had it Duller than when I handed it to him!

I did find one thing about it,takes way more angle than other Knives,also found out the Best way to Sharpen it is on My 14" Chop Saw with a Metal Cuttin Blade!




"""Supporting Speed Limits doesn't make You Anti Car"""

No & You'll never Fix STUPID or WACKO'S by changing Gun Laws You Dumb BITTCH!
 
>LAST EDITED ON Jan-31-13
>AT 07:49?PM (MST)
>
>muleyslayer, I hear you on having
>no hair on the arms
>for the first month. I'm
>sure Bessy will soon be
>posting photos of his manscaping,
>thanks to his worksharp.

Hey Bobby?

You gonna be at the EXPO?




"""Supporting Speed Limits doesn't make You Anti Car"""

No & You'll never Fix STUPID or WACKO'S by changing Gun Laws You Dumb BITTCH!
 
Both Sportsmens and cabela'scarry them. $89.00. Will check them out next time I'm in the store and get one!!!
 
Did not see one at Sportsman's today, but I already ordered it on line
Thanks though
 
Bess, I haven't been doing any shows this season. I'll hit it hard next year when I've got some new books out. I might possibly do the one in Vernal this year though. Your city library has asked me to come talk and do a book signing, we just haven't set any dates.
 
$69.95 for Work Sharp on Amazon & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS...TF8&qid=1359725875&sr=8-1&keywords=work+sharp


TONY MANDILE
48e63dfa482a34a9.jpg

How To Hunt Coues Deer
 
Just picked one up on Amazon for $59.99 with free shipping.

Dax

There is no such thing as a sure thing in trophy mule deer hunting.
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-02-13 AT 09:31AM (MST)[p]>Just picked one up on Amazon
>for $59.99 with free shipping.
>
>
>Dax
>

You should post the link for that one. My search there didn't produce anything under $69.xx.

TONY MANDILE
48e63dfa482a34a9.jpg

How To Hunt Coues Deer
 
That's interesting....

I ordered one yesterday and paid 59.99 also. Now I click on that link in my "order" file at Amazon and it shows 69.99.

Not sure how I got it for 59 but I'll take it!
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-02-13 AT 10:51AM (MST)[p]>That's interesting....
>
>I ordered one yesterday and paid
>59.99 also. Now I click
>on that link in my
>"order" file at Amazon and
>it shows 69.99.
>
>Not sure how I got it
>for 59 but I'll take
>it!

Was it DIRECT through Amazon or thru one of the outside vendors in the search list?

I started to get one direct from Amazon yesterday at the $69.99 price, but when I went to check out, I noticed about $6 in tax had been added on.

So...I bought it for the same price with free shipping and NO tax from Northern Tool & Equipment, which comes up among the Amazon authorized vendors.

Today, I notice at least one seller at $63.95, but they tack on $5.99 shipping!

To see the list use this link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...6683&sr=8-1&keywords=work+sharp&condition=new

TONY MANDILE
48e63dfa482a34a9.jpg

How To Hunt Coues Deer
 
I ordered one for $59.99 yesterday and it shows that way on my invoice, but today if I click on the same link it shows $66.95? Maybe I got lucky? Can't wait to try it out.

Dax

There is no such thing as a sure thing in trophy mule deer hunting.
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-02-13 AT 12:02PM (MST)[p]>I ordered one for $59.99 yesterday
>and it shows that way
>on my invoice, but today
>if I click on the
>same link it shows $66.95?
> Maybe I got lucky?
> Can't wait to try
>it out.
>
>Dax
>
>There is no such thing as
>a sure thing in trophy
>mule deer hunting.

If it is from Amazon, the difference could be the TAX I mentioned above.

And you still didn't answer this:

Was it DIRECT through Amazon or thru one of the outside vendors in the search list?




TONY MANDILE
48e63dfa482a34a9.jpg

How To Hunt Coues Deer
 
SO do these work really well are they easy to use. Does the edge stay on the knife for a period of time. I ordered mine from the factory cost me 89 plus tax and shipping 100 bucks. then ordered a bunch of replacement belts not sure how long they last. Still cheaper than Cabellas I can never get out of there without putting a dent in a 500 dollar bill. So many things I must have there
 
thebroker;

Go to youtube and there is several videos that will show how to use the worksharp. I would view several of them if I were you and they will give you a better ideal of how to use them me taking up several paragraphs trying to explain it.

If used right, it will put an edge on your blades that will shave hair, as for how long that edge will last will depend on the quality of the steel in your blade. Edge retention is based on steel quality and heat treating. If you have a cheaper steel and so so heat treating, it will get dull very fast.

I would practice first on the kitchen knives before using a quality hunting knife. Wife will not care as long as you get her knives sharp.

RELH
 
>No tax, direct from Amazon.
>I have seen their prices
>fluctuate on other items.
>I guess yesterday morning was
>a good time to buy
>a work sharp. Just
>looked again right now and
>it is now showing up
>at $60.95
>

That's crazy. Right now as I type this, that same link you included is showing $69.95 -- the same when I first checked Amazon's price. But when I put it into my cart, they included tax. I wonder if that might be because Amazon might have an outlet here in AZ and not in the state you live?

TONY MANDILE
48e63dfa482a34a9.jpg

How To Hunt Coues Deer
 
Eel, that 1"X30" sander from Harbor freight would work as well. Get belts in the following grits, 100, 220, 400, 600, and a crotous belt. Use the 100 grit for putting on a new profile, otherwise start with the 220 grit. The crotous belt is a ultra smooth polishing belt. You load it up with polishing compound and use it as the final honing belt.

Using the belt system is a far faster way to sharpen ultra hard steel knives that are in the 59-61 RC area of hardness. A lot of my customers will put that razor edge on their knives and be able to dress out 2-3 deer or elk and not have to touch up the edge until getting back home.

Just remember a light pressure is all that is needed when using the belt system of sharpening. You are not trying to hog out a large amount of steel.

RELH
 
My uncle bought one at the ISE show and was telling me how good it was and then I saw this post with nothing but positive comments from guys I have come to trust on this site. I have a Lansky sharpener, carbide sharpeners, etc. and a safe full of "one and done" knives that I just can't seem to put a durable edge on know matter how hard I try. I just ordered the Worksharp hopefully this is the answer to my knife sharpening woes...

Thanks guys!

Horniac
 
Thanks for the additional info RELH with the 1"x30" belts. I have the sander but need to get the various belts. I now use 400-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass (a smooth surface) and keep my tools pretty darn sharp. If I let a knife get too dull, I'm in for a ton of work though.

These power belt type "grinders" seem like the best and fastest way.

It's been my personal experience that a knife that can slice a piece of newspaper is fine, but it is best used to slice newspaper. If you sharpen a knife at too shallow of an angle, the edge is too thin and subject to damage too easily. If you nick a bone you can curl the edge over and you have a dull knife again. It does also depend on the quality of the steel used in the knife of course. Kind of a trade off type thing. I guess that's why different knives have different angles. It depends on what the knife is primarily used for.

Knife sharpening is an interesting topic.

Eel
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-03-13 AT 06:09PM (MST)[p]Eel, you brought up a subject that I forgot to comment on. That is the angle of the edge and it's ability to row over. I use a convex edge, not the straight "V" edge that is very common.
The convex edge is stronger and less prone to roll over or chipping out on bone.
To get that convex edge, you have to sharpen the knife on a portion of the belt where there is no platen behind the sanding belt. This allows the belt to slightly bend inwards from the pressure of the knife blade and grinds a slightly rounded "V" edge similar to a axe blade.

On some grinders you may have to remove a portion of the metal platen in order to get the slack belt to grind the convex edge. On a 1"X30" belt sander, you only need about 4-5 inches of area where there is no platen to allow enough slack belt to grind your convex edge. You place your knife edge in the middle of that 4-5 inch space on the belt and the belt will bend enough inwards for a convex edge. I like to hold the blade at approx. 20-22 degrees to the belt. Too much angle and you will round off the cutting edge.

That is one of the features I like about the Worksharp, it has guides that will give you the best angle and takes the guess work out of doing it free hand as I do it. Takes a hell lot more practice to learn to do it free hand.

The worksharp is a slack belt grinder and will grind a convex edge on your knife, another good feature I like about it.

RELH.
 
Got mine today freaking awesome cept I have a bunch of bald spots now on my left arm
 
Buy a Lansky system with all 5 stones, not the diamond type; get comfortable in your trophy room, at your reloading bench or go sit on the porch; follow the directions and sharpen all your knives to a razor sharp edge.

I sharpen my own hunting, fishing and butchering knives and know the Lansky works!
 
KME with natural arkansas stones is a great system, I dare you to find a bad review on it!
flyingbrass
cold dead hands
NRA Life Member
 
The Lansky and KME systems will work. I have used them in the past, many years past. On a top quality knife steel that is heat treated to 60RC, both Lansky and KME are slow to put that edge on the knife for a hair shaving edge. You could do 5-6 knives with the Worksharp system in the time it takes you to do 1 knife with Lansky or KME.

RELH
 
I have used many sharpeners and stones over the years. Best sharpener by far I've found is the Edge Pro system. I bouoght the :"Apex" model, and it has kept everything sharper than any other system I've tried.

You have to be careful with the Worksharp....it can round the tips if you're not careful....
 
Frogman43, you are correct about the worksharp can round the tips of a knife if the user fails to follow instructions with the kit. One reason I reccommend that a new user sharpen his kitchen knives first to get the proper procedure down before advancing to their hunting knives that may be more difficult due to more belly in the blade as apposed to straight bladed kitchen knives.

The worksharp is far easier to learn to use for the average guy then using more conventional knife sharperners. They just need to go slow and even practice drawing the knife blade though the angle guide without turning on the machine. if the blade has a deep belly, they need to learn to raise the hilt or handle area as they pass the belly and work towards the point.

RELH
 
I just ordered one from the Manufacture and it is suppose to be here by July 26th at 69.95 but I also ordered a abastive kit also for 9.95 plus tax.

I am taking RELH's advice and start with ny wifes kitchen knives first.....LOL


Brian
http://i44.tinypic.com/es7x8z.jpg[/IMG]
 
Kilo, do not worry. It will give you good practice and the wife will love you for sharpening her kitchen knives. Trust me, true story!

RELH
 
We will find out when it is Kilo or his wife that complains about cutting their thumb because the knife was too damn sharp.

RELH
 

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