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WatchemDrop93
Guest
How do you, and what do you use to preserve the velvet on a deers antlers? any info will help a bunch! Thanks
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NDBadlandsbucks
Guest
Find a taxidermist that can freeze dry them.
Keep the Sun at Your Back and the Wind in Your Face
Keep the Sun at Your Back and the Wind in Your Face
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rifle666
Guest
well
1st things 1st
if it still has blood and they have not rubbed at all then you do the following.
as soon as possible get the heat out, just like the cape.
if your good with a knife cape the deer out, this will open the vein around the peticals, if not carefully open up the vein at the bast of the antler.
then with a knife tip CAREFULLY poke a hole in the antler tip and milk the blood out from to the bottom, then hang them upsidedown to let anything else run out.
then
formaldehyde works but is NASTY stuff, and it can kill you if you inject yourself.
the better alternative is stuff called K899
Price: $22.60
it is for bird feet, but does the same thing, it "tans" the inside.
you don't need much, just inject the stuff into the vein until it comes out the opposite end.
talk to your taxidermist, he should have some to send with you, you don't need much at all. shot glass size. and a syringe with needle.
if you can't do that
then you MUST keep it cool, the antlers and velvet will rot faster than the cape or meat if left out
a big cooler at under 50 degrees will work for a few days.
and don't let the cape or velvet become wet, bacteria will ruin it.
if they have dried up and started to rub.....
just cool them off and keep the cool. the injection is still a good idea but not as critical as if they were still full of blood.
1st things 1st
if it still has blood and they have not rubbed at all then you do the following.
as soon as possible get the heat out, just like the cape.
if your good with a knife cape the deer out, this will open the vein around the peticals, if not carefully open up the vein at the bast of the antler.
then with a knife tip CAREFULLY poke a hole in the antler tip and milk the blood out from to the bottom, then hang them upsidedown to let anything else run out.
then
formaldehyde works but is NASTY stuff, and it can kill you if you inject yourself.
the better alternative is stuff called K899
Price: $22.60
it is for bird feet, but does the same thing, it "tans" the inside.
you don't need much, just inject the stuff into the vein until it comes out the opposite end.
talk to your taxidermist, he should have some to send with you, you don't need much at all. shot glass size. and a syringe with needle.
if you can't do that
then you MUST keep it cool, the antlers and velvet will rot faster than the cape or meat if left out
a big cooler at under 50 degrees will work for a few days.
and don't let the cape or velvet become wet, bacteria will ruin it.
if they have dried up and started to rub.....
just cool them off and keep the cool. the injection is still a good idea but not as critical as if they were still full of blood.
This is in the ...tipS section of MM......
Preserving Velvet Covered Antlers
Written by Roy Grace,
aka BOHNTR at MonsterMuleys.com
Roy Grace is a highly accomplished bowhunter,
with many P&Y trophies to his credit.
Generally when archery seasons begin out West, most monster mule deer will still be in the velvet stage of antler development. Many hunters want to preserve their velvet trophy, but are either not able to get it frozen and preserved or get it to a taxidermist in a timely manner. As a result, the velvet slips and they no longer have the ability to mount it with the velvet on. Here's what I've done over the years that's worked for me.
If you want to properly preserve velvet antlers IN THE FIELD, you will have to inject & brush them with formaldehyde and/or some of the new less toxic chemicals (4 in 1 solution works great as does Knobloch's antler in velvet tan). I personally prefer the 4 in 1 solution to Velvet Tan, as it was easier to use for me, however, both will work. A very respected taxidermist whose specialty was velvet antlers taught me this technique.
First, (using rubber gloves and eye protection) take a razor blade and make small incisions at the tips of all points (less than 1/8"). Next hang the antlers upside down, allowing the blood to drain. Starting at the bases inject the solution into the veins (you'll see and feel them) that follow the antler. You will begin to see the solution "push" out blood towards the tips. Continue injecting the solution as you work the untreated blood towards the tips. When you reach the ends, make sure you've treated ALL the veins on each antler. You'll quit injecting solution when the color of the solution is the same coming out as it was going in.
Allow the antlers to hang upside down overnight. After the solution/blood has stopped dripping out the ends, use a very fine painters brush and lightly brush the velvet with the solution. This will prevent bugs from entering the velvet that has no blood. After allowing the velvet to dry, lightly "brush" out the velvet to give it the natural uniform look. Remember; wear eye protection and gloves when using formaldehyde or any other chemicals. Slow down and don't be in a hurry to finish. If done correctly, your trophy will last forever.
Preserving Velvet Covered Antlers
Written by Roy Grace,
aka BOHNTR at MonsterMuleys.com
Roy Grace is a highly accomplished bowhunter,
with many P&Y trophies to his credit.
Generally when archery seasons begin out West, most monster mule deer will still be in the velvet stage of antler development. Many hunters want to preserve their velvet trophy, but are either not able to get it frozen and preserved or get it to a taxidermist in a timely manner. As a result, the velvet slips and they no longer have the ability to mount it with the velvet on. Here's what I've done over the years that's worked for me.
If you want to properly preserve velvet antlers IN THE FIELD, you will have to inject & brush them with formaldehyde and/or some of the new less toxic chemicals (4 in 1 solution works great as does Knobloch's antler in velvet tan). I personally prefer the 4 in 1 solution to Velvet Tan, as it was easier to use for me, however, both will work. A very respected taxidermist whose specialty was velvet antlers taught me this technique.
First, (using rubber gloves and eye protection) take a razor blade and make small incisions at the tips of all points (less than 1/8"). Next hang the antlers upside down, allowing the blood to drain. Starting at the bases inject the solution into the veins (you'll see and feel them) that follow the antler. You will begin to see the solution "push" out blood towards the tips. Continue injecting the solution as you work the untreated blood towards the tips. When you reach the ends, make sure you've treated ALL the veins on each antler. You'll quit injecting solution when the color of the solution is the same coming out as it was going in.
Allow the antlers to hang upside down overnight. After the solution/blood has stopped dripping out the ends, use a very fine painters brush and lightly brush the velvet with the solution. This will prevent bugs from entering the velvet that has no blood. After allowing the velvet to dry, lightly "brush" out the velvet to give it the natural uniform look. Remember; wear eye protection and gloves when using formaldehyde or any other chemicals. Slow down and don't be in a hurry to finish. If done correctly, your trophy will last forever.
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elkantler75
Guest
i preserved the velvet on my antlers from last year as follows...
soak them in a heavy salt and borax brine/solution. let them dry before you put them in the freezer. keep them frozen without a cover for 6-8 months. then pull them out and soak them in the borax and salt solution for severeal days. pull them out and let them drip dry. repeat the soak and dry cycle for a few times and if they dry out and there is no slipping of the velvet on the bone then they are fully cured.
this worked like a charm and my antlers are hanging in my living room and dont smell at all and are fully cured.
soak them in a heavy salt and borax brine/solution. let them dry before you put them in the freezer. keep them frozen without a cover for 6-8 months. then pull them out and soak them in the borax and salt solution for severeal days. pull them out and let them drip dry. repeat the soak and dry cycle for a few times and if they dry out and there is no slipping of the velvet on the bone then they are fully cured.
this worked like a charm and my antlers are hanging in my living room and dont smell at all and are fully cured.
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rifle666
Guest
"the better alternative is stuff called k899"
correction.... thats the wrong stuff, it is called preserve it, same place. you do it the same though, this stuff is awesome.
it has saved the velved from the mnts of canada on caribou with PERFECT results.
correction.... thats the wrong stuff, it is called preserve it, same place. you do it the same though, this stuff is awesome.
it has saved the velved from the mnts of canada on caribou with PERFECT results.
Adventurewriter
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 1,292
Just another thought. There is a relativly new (and not cheap)technique that you strip the antlers and then they put on some sort of adhesive and then put the antlers in some sort of a closed chamber and velvetlooking "filiments" attach to the antler looking super real like fresh full blood filled velvet antlers. I'm sure taxidermisnt here know of the technique.....looks great.
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rifle666
Guest
ya that stuff is AWESOME, but spendy and it takes quite awhile.
Adventurewriter
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 1,292
I'm not sure the time line but my Taxidermist does well in competetions and is known for his deer. Velvet antlers are alive and they look alive. For me worth the extra cost.
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evilroy250
Guest
I shot a velvet buck a few years ago. Got him home caped out the head, then took him to the taxidermist. He shot embalming fluid into the veins. That worked really good.
BrowningRage
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 4,438
I just wanted to thank those of you who posted all of this information. It's wonderful to see so many Sportsmen helping each other out.
My uncle had a beautiful 25" four-point that scored about 160 he stuck 5 years ago. Unfortunately he was not in a position where he could afford a professional mount and he wasn't sure what to do with the antlers. Unfortunatley he froze the antlers in his own freezer (not leaving room for too much else in there) and last year they had finally started to fall apart a little bit. In the end I think he lost them (threw them out). I was upset and told him I would have taken them, but all that is left is a few pictures of the beautiful deer. With information like this he would have been able to preserve them himself.
By selflessly posting information like this, I know that those of you with the knowledge are helping a lot of sportsmen preserve and cherish their trophies for years to come.
Thank You!!!
My uncle had a beautiful 25" four-point that scored about 160 he stuck 5 years ago. Unfortunately he was not in a position where he could afford a professional mount and he wasn't sure what to do with the antlers. Unfortunatley he froze the antlers in his own freezer (not leaving room for too much else in there) and last year they had finally started to fall apart a little bit. In the end I think he lost them (threw them out). I was upset and told him I would have taken them, but all that is left is a few pictures of the beautiful deer. With information like this he would have been able to preserve them himself.
By selflessly posting information like this, I know that those of you with the knowledge are helping a lot of sportsmen preserve and cherish their trophies for years to come.
Thank You!!!
M
MattB
Guest
I preserved an alpine muley I shot just by spraying the velvet with a weak formaldehyde solution that my taxidermist gave to me. As long as the antlers are hard and not soft tipped then you are fine to spray them with a preservative! I had to be pretty careful with the velvet as i just did a Euro mount with him, i think it turned out pretty sweet though! Here's a pic:
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rifle666
Guest
nice pictures
thats looks real nice.
good point to mention, that will not work if it is not dry.
thats looks real nice.
good point to mention, that will not work if it is not dry.
