Tuning Question

Lhedrick1

Active Member
Messages
854
So I had great sucess with the Magnus Classic 2 blade broadhead. Discontinued and can't get any more, imagine that.

So the closest I could find was the Zwickey Eskilite. Once tuned, flies like a dart but on the heavy side @ 135 grains.

I shoot 145 grain field points and can't for the life of me get them to shoot the same POI. Left and right is good but the field points shoot about 4" higher at 30 yards and about 8" higher at 60 yards.

Right now the broadheads are flying pretty damn good. The bow is tuned for the broadheads so the field points have a little whip to them but are still shooting higher. I'm shooting around 4"+/- groups at 60 yards with the broadheads so I'm confident the bow is tuned close to maximum efficiency for these heads. Am I missing something? I do shoot the cheap Buckbuster arrows (off Ebay $45/dozen) rated for 55-70 lb draw (my bow is maxed at 65 lbs). Possibly try a different arrow?? Not a huge ordeal just for practice, kind of a pain to have to hold in between pins or hold high/low.

Bow is a Mathews Heli-M with Trophy Ridge Whisker Biscuit rest.
 
That's great that you got the Zwickey to fly for you.. As a former traditional shooter I used them for years. I Currently use the Wensel woodsman's 125grain and they shoot great for me out of my hoyt. I wish I had a better answer for you but you could go to the bow shop and buy 1 properly splined arrow say an Easton FMJ or something similar and see how they fly with your broad heads and field points. I know my shop will let me do that. I also started shooting a helical on my arrows as well and my accuracy improved.
 
Good point, didn't think about just buy 1 of a few different kinds of shafts. I shoot the Blazer vanes and my fletching jig is a RH helical but with the small vanes I'm thinking the helical does very little in terms of spin.
 
I'm not sure what the spine is on the arrows you are using but you really need a 330 spine cut to 28.5". With broadheads hitting low you could also try raising the rest.
 
Thanks. Just shot a Mathews Vertix today and DAMNNNNN. Don't need to spend $1000 on a new bow but damn was it nice.
 
I second the suggestion to check your spine first then raise the rest after, if necessary. The shaft whipping like that typically (but not always) means you need a stiffer spine.

If you do need to raise your rest, do so in very small increments, like 1/16" or even 1/32". Field points are way more forgiving so you will find that when you move your rest, it's the shaft with the broadheads that are affected most by this adjustment.

One other thing, I know 10 grains isn't much, but at long distances, it matters a lot so you may want to keep your total arrow weight the same for both field points and broadheads.

I went through this same tuning exercise the other day. My spine was good so I just needed to raise the rest a little. Just be sure your vanes don't smack your rest (if using a fall-away).
 
>Thanks. Just shot a Mathews Vertix
>today and DAMNNNNN. Don't need
>to spend $1000 on a
>new bow but damn was
>it nice.

Haha! Same here. I was at the shop a couple of months ago,and yeah..."Daaaammnnn" is the word. :)

It took a lot of willpower to walk out of there without that bow. At 70lbs with a 75% let-off (I believe), the draw was ultra smooth and felt like 65lbs.

The biggest thing I liked? That grip. Wow. Never felt anything like it. Felt like you couldn't torque it either way if you tried. It just felt planted on your palm the same way every time.
 

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