Zero range?

Butts

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Honest question what do you MM’ers zero your centerfire rifles for western big game hunting? And why??

Is it 100, 200, 300 and what circumstances led you to decide? Is it How you were taught? What you have read? Variations on type of hunt? Rifle and cartridge performance? What your comfortable with?

I would like to hear from different guys/gals what they have found works best for them.
 
200 yard zero for me. With a 124 grain projectile at 2900fps, I'm at 2 MOA at 300 yards. No need for a holdover as I'm still within the kill radius.

It's based on drop verification which matches the calculations on my ballistics calculator.

I arrived at the 200 yard zero after reading some articles and determining comfort level at the range and in the field.
 
I zero 90% of my rifles at 100 yards and I prefer a fine duplex cross hair and the turret style scope for extended ranges. (I’ve tried the other multi range cross hairs and while I believe they can be accurate with certain loads. But after the first shot I believe they are worthless because I find myself go back to the center of the cross hair for follow up shots. Just a personal observation.
Personally I like to see a tight group for at my zero range and know what the gun is capable of. Also it was what I was taught.
However I do have a 300 win mag and I zero it at 300 yards. For the reason that I can hold on the animal from 100-500 yards and not have to adjust much in elevation.
 
Zero at 100 yards then leave my rifle dialed to 200. I prescribe to having the most accurate zero you can if your going to be dialing a scope. I dont care what any one says your zero will be more accurate at 100 then 200. That’s just the human factor. Building a dope chart has to start with very accurate basis.

Works for me any way. Killed my buck at 964 yards this year
 
Zero at 100 yards then leave my rifle dialed to 200. I prescribe to having the most accurate zero you can if your going to be dialing a scope. I dont care what any one says your zero will be more accurate at 100 then 200. That’s just the human factor. Building a dope chart has to start with very accurate basis.

Works for me any way. Killed my buck at 964 yards this year
Then why not 50 or 25?
 
I have always zeroed 3” high at 100 yards. This puts me dead on at around 265 yards depending on which caliber I am shooting. No need to hold over an elks back until past 425 or so. Works real well for antelope too. I have used this zero for 7mm REM Mag, 30-06, and .257 Ackley. Seems to work best with muzzle velocities from 2800-3000fps. I learned it from reading a book by Bob Hagel years ago.
 
Why? I know there’s no such thing as a stupid question but if you dont understand the ballistic process go read up
Ez there snowflake. You made a statement that I simply asked you to clarify.

So why not less than 100 to further minimize your “human factor”?
 
Obviously it will not give you an accurate representation of data. Everything is going to shoot one hole at 25 yards. What would you actually be doing? Maybe I have too analytical an approach that I expect you to understand as I’ve been reloading and long distance shooting for years and maybe your just a red neck if it can hit a stump at 50yards guy your good to go for 500. But my suspicion is your bored and trolling
 
200 yards for me and all of my rifles. I can switch off and expect them to shoot about the same from rifle to rifle. I’m not into the long range hunting. Shooting, but not hunting. The longest kill of a big game animal is 400 yards for me but it’s most common from 75-250 yards. I grew up on the shooting range and prairie dog towns. We would switch from 4 or 5 rifles and it always helped to know they’re shooting the same up to 200. Beyond that, the impacts are relatively close but it’s always a team situation for us after that distance meaning a shooter and spotter so the discipline increases and the bullet impacts are well planned and less of an impulse as the normal hunting shot ranges.
 
Obviously it will not give you an accurate representation of data. Everything is going to shoot one hole at 25 yards. What would you actually be doing? Maybe I have too analytical an approach that I expect you to understand as I’ve been reloading and long distance shooting for years and maybe your just a red neck if it can hit a stump at 50yards guy your good to go for 500. But my suspicion is your bored and trolling
I like that post (y) Yes, I’m a fisher dude. I also have formal training for calculating such trivial things. If I really wanted to troll you I would fixate on that 964, but I’m more of a to each his own guy.;)

I actually tend to agree with you that there is some magic distance where the target markings and reticle lose their effectiveness and you start “hunting” for the bullseye and end up flinching and pulling shots. I don’t know what it is.

I “sight in” at 100 and set zero for 200 typically. Prairie dog guns are zero’d at 100. I practice out to 850 as that’s all the farther my buddies range goes. I won’t say I would never shoot that far, but Hail Mary’s are rare. I try to limit my shots to 400 because I don’t have a creedmoor and I don’t like heavy slugs.
 
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We’re essentially doing the same thing. Like I said I leave my rifle dialed to 200 so I don’t have to calculate anything past 300. I just zero and build my chart from 100 as there’s tighter tolerance there. 1/2” one way or another on a zero at 200 can be some big shifts at 800 but not look that bad for a 200 yard “zero” on paper
 
I sight everything in at 100 yards and then use my chronograph to find my speed. I then shoot out at every distance from 100-600 yards based on the gun's capability. I then take the real-world data along with S.D. and B.C. of the bullet and make myself an accurate drop chart in 25 yard increments because I have already shot these distances and know my drop. I prefer FFP scopes and can shoot on the fly or dial the turret if I so desire.

The ballistics of my 44 mag rifle and my 22-250 are so different that all these wives tales about 3" high at 100 yards means "whatever" at whatever distances is junk science that was passed down from one drunk grandfather in hunting camp to another. Just go shoot your rifle and get accurate data for it.
 
I sight everything in at 100 yards and then use my chronograph to find my speed. I then shoot out at every distance from 100-600 yards based on the gun's capability. I then take the real-world data along with S.D. and B.C. of the bullet and make myself an accurate drop chart in 25 yard increments because I have already shot these distances and know my drop. I prefer FFP scopes and can shoot on the fly or dial the turret if I so desire.

The ballistics of my 44 mag rifle and my 22-250 are so different that all these wives tales about 3" high at 100 yards means "whatever" at whatever distances is junk science that was passed down from one drunk grandfather in hunting camp to another. Just go shoot your rifle and get accurate data for it.
Exactly
 
I don't use turrets, but my scope does have mil dots. I set my scope at 12x, and my center cross hair is at 300yds. I found this put my mil dots at 400 and 500. I've never really shot at anything over 300 yards though, so it barely matters...
 
I sight everything in at 100 yards and then use my chronograph to find my speed. I then shoot out at every distance from 100-600 yards based on the gun's capability. I then take the real-world data along with S.D. and B.C. of the bullet and make myself an accurate drop chart in 25 yard increments because I have already shot these distances and know my drop. I prefer FFP scopes and can shoot on the fly or dial the turret if I so desire.

The ballistics of my 44 mag rifle and my 22-250 are so different that all these wives tales about 3" high at 100 yards means "whatever" at whatever distances is junk science that was passed down from one drunk grandfather in hunting camp to another. Just go shoot your rifle and get accurate data for it.
Yes if you compare a .44 Mag rifle with a 30-06 you will no correlation whatsoever at distance. The 3” high method works well with calibers/loads in the 2800-3000fps range. And yes you have to shoot to verify. My examples is 7mm REM Mag 160 gr handloads at 2850, 30-06 165 gr handloads at 2900, .257 Ackley 120 gr handloads at 2875. All three of these loads zeroed at 3” high at 1750 foot elevation will be dead on between 260-275 yards. Drop at 300, 350, 400 yards is similar.
 
Now you can have 2 different zero's. With the axeon second zero.
You can sight in to 100yds and have your second zero at 500yds. with the flip of a lens. The drop is built into the lens for your particular rifle and cartridge. You have a choice of what you want your second zero yardage to be, 200, 300, 400, 500 yards.
 
my grandpa recommended 300 yards so there is less guess work for 100-300yard and less drop to factor in for the long 400+ shots.

i’m going to sight my .06 to 300 and see if that holds true. i think he also did that cause he shot a .270 so it may be caliber dependent.

oh yeah and i don’t use a fancy scope or adjust the zero in the field.
 
I zero at 300. No adjustment, or hold off out to 350, and beyond that, I dial my turret.
I’ve found this to be the best compromise for my hunting, since I’ve had a fair number of opportunities for quick shots out to 300 yards or so, and that zero makes for no thinking when time is critical to getting it done…..
 
my grandpa recommended 300 yards so there is less guess work for 100-300yard and less drop to factor in for the long 400+ shots.

i’m going to sight my .06 to 300 and see if that holds true. i think he also did that cause he shot a .270 so it may be caliber dependent.

oh yeah and i don’t use a fancy scope or adjust the zero in the field.
How did I know this was going to be a 30-06 comment?

There's probably been more game killed with an old ought six than all others combined ?
 
I sight everything in at 100 yards and then use my chronograph to find my speed. I then shoot out at every distance from 100-600 yards based on the gun's capability. I then take the real-world data along with S.D. and B.C. of the bullet and make myself an accurate drop chart in 25 yard increments because I have already shot these distances and know my drop. I prefer FFP scopes and can shoot on the fly or dial the turret if I so desire.

The ballistics of my 44 mag rifle and my 22-250 are so different that all these wives tales about 3" high at 100 yards means "whatever" at whatever distances is junk science that was passed down from one drunk grandfather in hunting camp to another. Just go shoot your rifle and get accurate data for it.
This is exactly what western hunters should be doing. Period!
 
This is exactly what western hunters should be doing. Period!
I gave up on that because I got tired of looking at my dope charts for 300 yard shots.
In hunting there's little time for calculations.
I now go 200 yard zero and I'm golden at 400 and even hold a few inches high at 5.
Dead animals, no stressful situations.
 
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How did I know this was going to be a 30-06 comment?

There's probably been more game killed with an old ought six than all others combined ?
do you recommend 200yard zero for the .06? iv been zeroed at 100 and no difference until shots past 300 then i gotta start holding higher.
 
do you recommend 200yard zero for the .06? iv been zeroed at 100 and no difference until shots past 300 then i gotta start holding higher.
I hand load 165gr spbt @2800 FPS. I have 3 minutes of drop at 300 yards when sighted in at 100 yards. It’s honestly not that much drop so I compensate in the scope and let it fly. I’m by no means a marksman or an amazing shot but I do dabble. Lol
 
do you recommend 200yard zero for the .06? iv been zeroed at 100 and no difference until shots past 300 then i gotta start holding higher.
You've got to study the ballistics of your load and determine a comfortable range to hunt with.
Bullet drop obviously being the biggest factor.
If you're still good at 300 and like it, don't change the zero.
My 6.5 PRC and 338 Lapua have similar trajectories and I have them both sighted in 2.5" high at 100 and am good out to 500 without twisting a turret.
Most kill shots are under 500.....or should be IMO.
 
I gave up on that because I got tired of looking at my dope charts for 300 yard shots.
In hunting there's little time for calculations.
I now go 200 yard zero and I'm golden at 400 and even hold a few inches high at 5.
Dead animals, no stressful situations.
Lieca 3200 binos fix that. Amazing how dialed I have those to my 30 nosler
 
Lieca 3200 binos fix that. Amazing how dialed I have those to my 30 nosler
I have the older Leica geovids, have you tried the Ziess or Swarovski models at all? Just wondering if you started with the Leicas or transitioned into them?
I love my geovids, but still have to use a BC program.
 
I guess another big factor would be, can you dial your scope, is it a fixed power, what kind of reticle do you have? Some of my older scopes weren’t designed to dial on the fly, they were fixed power, had a single crosshair. So I would zero at 200, to help minimize holdover, depending on the gun I was using. But most scope’s people use nowadays dial on the fly, zero stop, sub dial, etc…
So if your your using a dial on the fly scope, what’s the point of sighting in at anything more than 100 yards, or even less I guess? Unless your trying to maximize your travel in your scope for longer distance shooting, by using a 10, 20, 30 MOA rail? And most of the time, these aren’t hunting rifles, there bench guns. Otherwise, it’s easier to zero at the closer range (I prefer 100 yards), without having to compensate for other variables… And then the most important thing, get out and shoot the damn gun! You can set your zero to wherever you want! It’s obviously a preference for many different reasons…
I know some of this was mentioned in the above posts.

I enjoy reading these, because I always seem to pick up a little something new!
 
I find it amusing that a guys asks a simple question about zero for western hunting and it turns discussion about who has the best long range methods. His question doesn’t beg an answer on how to shoot out to 800 + yards. Something that 95% of hunters should not be doing.

My advice to him assuming this is his first trip: regardless of what you see on TV or read here, most likely you will be shooting less than 400 yards. I sight in for 2” high at 100, but I don’t have a good argument against 3”. Either way, you don’t have to even think about where to hold till past 250 yards. Practice at 250-400 yards to know where you should hold at those ranges. But out to 400 you should still be holding ON the animal.

Another good thing to remember is that when shooting at steep angles, your bullet will hit higher than where it does when shooting flat. I killed a mule deer with my 270 at 250 yards 2 weeks ago shooting down at a steep angle. Even though my bullet would hit about 3” low at that range when shooting flat, I held just above his elbow and hit mid body and drilled him thru the heart.
 
I guess another big factor would be, can you dial your scope, is it a fixed power, what kind of reticle do you have? Some of my older scopes weren’t designed to dial on the fly, they were fixed power, had a single crosshair. So I would zero at 200, to help minimize holdover, depending on the gun I was using. But most scope’s people use nowadays dial on the fly, zero stop, sub dial, etc…
So if your your using a dial on the fly scope, what’s the point of sighting in at anything more than 100 yards, or even less I guess? Unless your trying to maximize your travel in your scope for longer distance shooting, by using a 10, 20, 30 MOA rail? And most of the time, these aren’t hunting rifles, there bench guns. Otherwise, it’s easier to zero at the closer range (I prefer 100 yards), without having to compensate for other variables… And then the most important thing, get out and shoot the damn gun! You can set your zero to wherever you want! It’s obviously a preference for many different reasons…
I know some of this was mentioned in the above posts.

I enjoy reading these, because I always seem to pick up a little something new!

That’s exactly why I made this post. It is always good to see different perspectives on a common scenario amongst hunters. Thanks fellas
 
I find it amusing that a guys asks a simple question about zero for western hunting and it turns into a pissing contest for who has the best long range methods. His question doesn’t beg an answer on how to shoot out to 800 + yards. Something that 95% of hunters should not be doing.

My advice to him assuming this is his first trip: regardless of what you see on TV or read here, most likely you will be shooting less than 400 yards. I sight in for 2” high at 100, but I don’t have a good argument against 3”. Either way, you don’t have to even think about where to hold till past 250 yards. Practice at 250-400 yards to know where you should hold at those ranges. But out to 400 you should still be holding ON the animal.

Another good thing to remember is that when shooting at steep angles, your bullet will hit higher than where it does when shooting flat. I killed a mule deer with my 270 at 250 yards 2 weeks ago shooting down at a steep angle. Even though my bullet would hit about 3” low at that range when shooting flat, I held just above his elbow and hit mid body and drilled him thru the heart.
Very important point!
Always aim low at steep angles due to bullet arc.
A good rangefinder will give both actual and angle compensation.

I guided a Rocky Mountain Goat hunt with a lady and the Billy was at 700 yards and at a very steep angle uphill. She twisted her turret to the 700 and I told her it'll shoot high if you do.
She wanted to trust the scope.
After the 3rd shot, she started listening to me ?
 
I have the older Leica geovids, have you tried the Ziess or Swarovski models at all? Just wondering if you started with the Leicas or transitioned into them?
I love my geovids, but still have to use a BC program.
Buddy has the swaros.but not the ballistic model. These are the only ones I’ve owned with that feature. I’m sure the others are just as good but when I was buying I like how these fit, where the buttons were for my hand and fir my eyes they were the best glass. I think they do have an advantage there because the range finder is not in the glass. Let’s them use there best coatings. All these binos glass are so good that you could probably never see the difference but they were best again to my eyes. I really am amazed how dialed the program can be. Put a lot of work behind the rifle and fine tuning and it really paid off. It’s dead on every time
 
My 30-06 is a fixed scoped zeroed at 200 yards.
My 300 WM with turrets is zeroed at 100 but I leave camp with it dialed to 300 yards
 
Zero at 100 yards then leave my rifle dialed to 200. I prescribe to having the most accurate zero you can if your going to be dialing a scope. I dont care what any one says your zero will be more accurate at 100 then 200. That’s just the human factor. Building a dope chart has to start with very accurate basis.

Works for me any way. Killed my buck at 964 yards this year
I disagree with this. I get it close to zero at 100 yards and then move it out to 200 or generally 300 to really fine tune it. At 100 yards most folks can shoot little groups that don't tell you much. Get the target out at 200 or 300 where you can really start to see the issues. My 280 ai at 300 yards during my sighting-in process.

2021-08-08 10.24.16.jpg
 
Generally I sight in for impact 2.5-3" high at 100, depending on the cartridge. That puts me on about 300 yards and PBR (point blank range) out to 325-350 (depending on the critter size) without thinking about hold or dial. No thinking, no fuss.

Yes, I shoot at 300 yards, once sighted at 100 yards, to verify!

Yes, I can always take my time and dial for more distant shots.
Not enough time, you say? Then there's NO shot or get closer if possible.

Everyone does it differently but I cannot see shooting a big game gun and handicapping myself with a 100 yard zero. No need for that in my book.

This isn't rocket science. Oh wait, yes it is!

Zeke
 
Depends on the cartridge and the downrange energy it will deliver.

For a lighter round fired from a 243, 25-06, and 130 gr 270 the zero is 250. BDC reticles offer pretty close to 300, 400, and 500.

Larger rounds from a 7mm and up are zeroed at 300 with 400, 500, and 600.

250 and 300 because most shots are that for some reason.
 
technically a 150yd zero for most rifles. this is a little over an inch high at 100yds..

I do, however, shoot at 200yds for POA=POI (+ 0.75 MOA for most of them) which is to opposite of the method discussed above --- I find that shooting at 200 & 300 yds reveals things that 100yds does not in terms of POA=POI

(all of my rifles have turret scopes)
 
Zero at 300 for all my rifles. For deer size targets and larger that makes it easy for center aim out to 350 and target down.
 
General questions for everyone saying they zero at 200 or 300.
Are you shooting at said distance and making adjustments to zero it at said distance?
 
General questions for everyone saying they zero at 200 or 300.
Are you shooting at said distance and making adjustments to zero it at said distance?
I do, yes. I get my elevation and windage spot-on and then do additional drop verification out to 300. I find that it aligns with my ballistics software (but I verify anyway just to make sure).
 
General questions for everyone saying they zero at 200 or 300.
Are you shooting at said distance and making adjustments to zero it at said distance?

Normally I’m 2” high at 100 and go to 200 to check and make sure it’s there. Yesterday was the time I checked the 200 yard impacts for my 22 K Hornet and it’s pretty close. The other larger groups were a 22 mag at 200 yards.

095CDCD1-A034-41A0-98EF-0F1D5986F65D.jpeg
 
2" high at 100 and the number for my sierra game king 150's out of my 270 are 8" at 300, 22" at 400 and 44" 500

scapula high at 300, chest high at 400 and get closer if the toad is at 500 :)

Cheers, Pete
 
Honest question what do you MM’ers zero your centerfire rifles for western big game hunting? And why??

Is it 100, 200, 300 and what circumstances led you to decide? Is it How you were taught? What you have read? Variations on type of hunt? Rifle and cartridge performance? What your comfortable with?

I would like to hear from different guys/gals what they have found works best for them.
I used to zero at 100. It worked ok, but depending on me guessing the range. Once I got a reloading rig (Christmas gift from my mom) I started working up loads and also started using point blank range for a given load based on every chunk of data I could find. I *think* that the PBR for my 165 grain for my .300WM was 363 yards, based on a target zone of 18" for an elk. Hold dead center and a hit in the kill zone was more likely. That seemed to work better for quick shots, especially when use of a rangefinder isn't practical....assuming my yardage guesstimate was accurate.

I use a 100 zero based on the rifles which have CDS Leupold scopes. I have a fistfull of those rifles. It works really well too, assuming I have the chance to range the animal.

I have a couple of rifles with Night Force scopes (all NXS with MOAR reticle; their system works really well too, but takes some getting used to.
 
For me, it still comes back to what kind of scope your going to use (fixed, variable, dialable). If you have a fixed power, non dialable scope, I think zeroing at 200 yards+ is optimal, but not always realistic. But…
Do you have a ballistic chart, or DOPE for what your shooting. Reticle hash marks? Do you have a range finder with angle, temperature, barometric, compensation? Can you read the wind and adjust? Like said above, it’s not rocket science, but it is!
Again, for me, unless your zeroing on a perfect day, you may end up adjusting for variables that don’t give you an accurate zero past 100 yards (flinch, wind, humidity, etc.) But you may be able to overcome that, by my statement above about, “get out and shoot the damn gun”! If your using the latest and greatest glass, gizmos, gadgets. I just don’t see zeroing past 100 yards.
I see what the OP did here, and he got exactly what he wanted…
Glad he did, it’s fun!!!
Again, these are just my opinions…
And we all know where they come from!
 

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