Gunsmith to make my Weatherby more accurate

DidIDraw

Active Member
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I have an older Ultralite, Mark V in 300 Weatherby that I just can't find a load that shoots well. I've tried 6 different slugs and 5 different powders and can't find anything that shoots under 1" at 100 yards. I tried a few factory loads that don't group well either.
I love the rifle but don't like taking it hunting because I don't feel much confidence in it yet.
Anyone know of someone that could do some basic gunsmithing that will make it more accurate? Maybe a service that develops loads as well?
 
I think those had a 1.5" accuracy guarantee with factory ammo. Will your gun shoot that? If not, contact Weatherby, I'd bet they will help you out. Send it to them before making any modifications, they won't touch it after you've had someone else work on it.
 
I think those had a 1.5" accuracy guarantee with factory ammo. Will your gun shoot that? If not, contact Weatherby, I'd bet they will help you out. Send it to them before making any modifications, they won't touch it after you've had someone else work on it.
Yes it will shoot about 1.5" groups so not horrible, but not what I'm seeing with my other weatherby rifles (two of them shoot touching holes at 100 yards - both are ultralite mark V rifles as well). Maybe I'm being a bit unrealistic.
 
Yes it will shoot about 1.5" groups so not horrible, but not what I'm seeing with my other weatherby rifles (two of them shoot touching holes at 100 yards - both are ultralite mark V rifles as well). Maybe I'm being a bit unrealistic.
What cartridges are your other ultra lite rifles? A 300WBY in an ultra lite is going to recoil pretty stout. Do you have a muzzlebrake on it?

As far as getting some better accuracy out of it a simple bedding job and trigger spring replacement would be simple to do yourself.
 
What cartridges are your other ultra lite rifles? A 300WBY in an ultra lite is going to recoil pretty stout. Do you have a muzzlebrake on it?

As far as getting some better accuracy out of it a simple bedding job and trigger spring replacement would be simple to do yourself.
I have a handload for my 270 weatherby - 140 gr tsx and 4831 powder. For the 270 win I use Hornady Lite Magnum factory loads with 130 gr bullet.

The 300 has pretty heavy recoil, it doesn't have a brake. I use a lead sled for load development so it isn't flinching that is causing the groups.

I'll look into the bedding and trigger spring replacement. I'll get to learn something new!
 
I have a handload for my 270 weatherby - 140 gr tsx and 4831 powder. For the 270 win I use Hornady Lite Magnum factory loads with 130 gr bullet.

The 300 has pretty heavy recoil, it doesn't have a brake. I use a lead sled for load development so it isn't flinching that is causing the groups.

I'll look into the bedding and trigger spring replacement. I'll get to learn something new!

Bedding the lug area is very easy and the spring is easy as well.

Have you tried shooting some groups without the lead sled? I’m not a fan of the lead sleds at all. They can damage stocks/scopes and you can’t get a good cheek weld or sight picture with them. Also the front sling stud on your stock could be getting caught on the front rest bag and causing accuracy issues.
 
Try some Hammer bullets or let Steve develop a load for it.
Kevin Weaver would be hard to beat for gunsmith work.
Also try a different weight bullet as the twist might be wrong for what you are trying.
 
Bedding the lug area is very easy and the spring is easy as well.

Have you tried shooting some groups without the lead sled? I’m not a fan of the lead sleds at all. They can damage stocks/scopes and you can’t get a good cheek weld or sight picture with them. Also the front sling stud on your stock could be getting caught on the front rest bag and causing accuracy issues.
I haven't tried shooting groups. My other rifles haven't had an issue from this rest but certainly worth a try.

I ordered a new trigger (TriggerTech) and a bedding kit. Will give me a winter project.

The good news about the not finding a load yet is that I stocked up on a bunch of different powders and bullets before they became scarce.

If anyone has a load they really like for this caliber, I'd love to hear what it is.

Thanks for all your help.
 
Before you spend money on other things for that rifle, bed the action should be your first thing to do. It will be the cheapest. Study the videos on YouTube concerning bedding a rifle. Also make sure one side of the barrel is not touching the forearm wood as that will cause flyers.
When you glass bed the action, be sure to use PLENTY OF RELEASE compound on the action, barrel and floor plate and all screws. If you fail to do this, get yourself a good sharp knife to whittle your stock away from the metal. I use good old paste wax and apply two coats to make sure I do not miss a spot.
After bedding the action, you may have to decide to free float the barrel or have about 8 pounds of pressure at the fore end tip. Most guns shoot better free floated, but I have ran across several rifles that shot best with fore end pressure.
If your rifle has a poor bedding job, buying a tuner or any other modification will not help the accuracy with poor bedding not being corrected.
RELH
 
Before you spend money on other things for that rifle, bed the action should be your first thing to do. It will be the cheapest. Study the videos on YouTube concerning bedding a rifle. Also make sure one side of the barrel is not touching the forearm wood as that will cause flyers.
When you glass bed the action, be sure to use PLENTY OF RELEASE compound on the action, barrel and floor plate and all screws. If you fail to do this, get yourself a good sharp knife to whittle your stock away from the metal. I use good old paste wax and apply two coats to make sure I do not miss a spot.
After bedding the action, you may have to decide to free float the barrel or have about 8 pounds of pressure at the fore end tip. Most guns shoot better free floated, but I have ran across several rifles that shot best with fore end pressure.
If your rifle has a poor bedding job, buying a tuner or any other modification will not help the accuracy with poor bedding not being corrected.
RELH
Using lots of release agent can’t be overstated. I use hornady one shot. Spray the living chit out of everything. I didn’t use enough one time and had to put the rifle in the freezer overnight, then had to go Milli Vanilli with a rubber hammer to get it free of the stock.
 
Chester is not pulling your leg concerning the freezer release. It works if you have problems removing the barrel-action due to tight fit or small amount of epoxy sticking to metal.
RELH
 
A few years ago I took a factory Rem 700 CDL in 30-06 and did an at-home accurizing job on it. Kept the barrel and action, but put it in a new McMillian CF stock, bedded it, and added a new Jewell trigger. It'll shoot 1.5 inch groups at 300 yards now. For the bedding job I used Devcon epoxy and Johnson Fine Wood paste wax and never had a problem with sticking. Just makes sure every surface has wax on it.
 
I would look at the barrel with a borescope. When you shoot it, does it group 2 close and 3rd one off?
 
Have you tried Barnes TSX bullets? I think these bullets shoot reasonably well in most guns using Barnes load specs. If these bullets don’t work then I would be inclined to believe there is something wrong with gun, scope, or bases.
 
Have you tried Barnes TSX bullets? I think these bullets shoot reasonably well in most guns using Barnes load specs. If these bullets don’t work then I would be inclined to believe there is something wrong with gun, scope, or bases.
Yes, I've tried 168 and 180 gr tsx and ttsx bullets.
I ordered a bedding kit and a new trigger for the gun, going to give that a try.
 
You can chase this rabbit, and no telling how much you will spend to get it to shoot, or you can order a Cooper, chambered in a Weatherby caliber that you like, and it will drive nails. My 300 Weatherby shoots sub .5MOa with factory ammo.

I’ve just gone down this road with a couple of factory rifles and I’m money and time ahead by buying a higher quality rifle.
 
Alot of times with light barreled rifles, they will shoot the first 2 close and will have enough heat in the barrel to shoot the 3rd shot usually high, in my experience...
In my experience it is heat but not in the chamber area. It’s the barrel and making sure the barrel is free floated the entire length of the barrel is key. Also not just floated with a dollar bill but a little more generous float.
 
Just my experience but I've had three Weatherby Ultralights and none of them shot very good. I've rebarreled all of them with Bartlein #3 barrels and they all drive tacks now. They're a little heavier than they were with the ultralight barrels but I have a lot more confidence in them now. Lots of guys get good accuracy from their factory ultralight rifles but I darn sure didn't.
 
Accuracy on the MkV has been hit or miss since they started production even on the German and Jap ones. some of it is the $10 barrel and some of it is the cartridge.

Factory Weatherby calibers have a ton of free bore. great for reducing pressure but not so much for accuracy. I have 2 custom Weatherby caliber rifles that are both tack drivers but they have Lilja barrels and no free bore. as a result I can't use factory ammo or it sticks the bolt.
 
Accuracy on the MkV has been hit or miss since they started production even on the German and Jap ones. some of it is the $10 barrel and some of it is the cartridge.

Factory Weatherby calibers have a ton of free bore. great for reducing pressure but not so much for accuracy. I have 2 custom Weatherby caliber rifles that are both tack drivers but they have Lilja barrels and no free bore. as a result I can't use factory ammo or it sticks the bolt.
I may not be able to make this one more accurate but it is worth a try. I have two other weatherby ultralights that shoot cloverleaf groups at 100 yards so I'm still hopeful. On both of those rifles it took quite a while to find a load that worked with them. Sometimes the process is part of the fun anyway.
 

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