arrow selection

sayala · May 4, 2004

I need some more info. this time about arrow stiffnesss/spine.
I currently shoot a Bowtech Patriot set at 70# with a draw length of 29". I read some where that even if you have the correct arrow size and weight that the stiffness may not be right for the bow.How do you determine the stiffness? Please bare with me as I am wanting to understand and learn more about how to have the correct set up and shooting properly. I am currently shooting carbon xpress (cx300's) at 29" long @ 8gpi,14grn insert and 8grn nock with 100grn field point/ broadhead. Now what about stiffness? Thanks for any Info.

Sayala

MBM · May 4, 2004

Spine is the amount of deflection an arrow bends. Most arrow manufatures uses a standard weight on the center of the arrow shaft supported at 28 inches to get the spine number.

If you used some sort of Arrow chart when you bought your arrows and you used your correct bow set up then you should be pretty close on spine. That being said the chart is just a starting place. You need to paper/group tune to see if you have the proper spine for your bow/shooting style. Remember the more point weight or the longer your arrow is then the spine of the arrow weakens the less wight or a shorter arrow and the arrow will get stiffer.

Mark

ELKMASTER101 · May 5, 2004

i shoot with an over-draw attached, this allows me to shorten my shafts. i cut all mine to 1" over to make sure i don't pull back so far as to off seat my shaft.
its kind of scarry having the the broadhead right above your wrist.
but i picked up probably 15 yds of super flat shooting.
and increased my consistancy range to 60 yd.
I bought a 6 doz. arrows off of MICHALE a couple years ago off ebay. cut them down and replaced all the nocks and fletching,
giving me a 12 doz. rack to target with.
check your charts to see works best under your conditions, pick up a doz. only shoot with half of those and place the others back for your hunting.
do this over a number of years and you'l always have a good selection of choise shafts.

sayala · May 5, 2004

According to the chart my arrows are at the minimmum in weight as I can go. Wouldn't cutting them shorter for more stiffness create too lite of an arrow?

ELKMASTER101 · May 5, 2004

no, you will pick up speed and distance, shoot flatter and improve your grouping.
but all of this must take place behind a well tuned bow.
when they talk about weight of an arrow there talking about the cross section modules. the dinamicks at which the arrow under compresson holds its form and avoiding the buckling action caused by the release of the string.
inother words the streangth it ttakes to keep the end of the shaft from catching up to the point of the shaft under accellaration.
I did this in a class to show yuoun hunters what would happen.
i used light kids "wood" arrow in a compound.
and it litteraly expolded on release.
think of taking to cars and placing a 2X4 between them in 8'-0 lg direction and trying to push the front vehical.
the board bows or buckles.
now take the same 2X4 only 4'-0 long and push the car.
it stays straight even though its the same mass thru its section.

sayala · May 6, 2004

Got It! Thanks for the info guys. It's all starting to make some good sense now.

Thanks
Sayala

BOHNTR · May 6, 2004

sayala:

My advice would be do NOT shoot an overdraw if you're already having problems tuning your bow. With the arrow tip resting BEHIND your hand, it is MUCH harder to tune because hand torgue is exaggerated.

Speed should be your last concern and with the ample selection of aluminums and carbons you will be able to shoot fast enough for any situation. Speed only helps for those that mis-judge yardage by 1-5 yards. If you have a range finder, it shouldn't be a concern. JMO

BOHNTR )))-------------->

sayala · May 6, 2004

Not really looking for fast speed i'm just trying to understand what goes in to creating a good tuned shooting bow. Thanks for your input BOHNTR will definetly come in handy.

Thanks
sayala

ELKMASTER101 · May 10, 2004

BOHNTR,
never noticed the torque your talking about.
I have been shooting compound bows for 32 years now, and 7 years prior was recurves and before that straight sticks.
the over draw in my opion was one of the best things that has happen in the industry in centuries, or from the beginning of time.
but like you stated it has to be tuned to it,
but no more than any other bow.
the whole idea is to get the arrow to release it self exactly 90 degrees to the rest. "EXACTLY"
and in the exact direction of the strings forward motion.
You will shoot bullet holes.

BOHNTR · May 10, 2004

ELKMASTER101:

Actually, as you know, the overdraw has faded OUT of the archery industry and is no longer the craze it once was say 10-15 years ago. The big selection of carbon arrows and numerous light aluminums allow an archer to have similar speed with better arrow performance or flight.

Since we've both been around the archery business for lots of years, we know that overdraws really didn't hit the industry as of late, as many original compound bows were designed in the 50's had built in overdraws. In fact many of the old flight bows had this type of design. (man remember those

)

Ask any indoor shooter (Ulmer, Strickland, Quintana) and they'll tell you ALL archers have hand torgue with the recoil of the bow. There's no physical way not to. However, obviously the better shooters have much lees than the average marksman. You my friend, probably have better than average if you still shoot perfect paper holes with an overdraw. Wish I could.

However, most do not. By adding a 3" overdraw, you WILL exaggerate this with the arrow behind the point of orgin that generates torgue (grip/hand). (That's why you don't see many archers on the line at Vegas shooting 3" overdraws.)

To each his own, it's just my experience dealing with archers/bowhunters (nearly 30 years) that the average archer ALREADY having problems tuning his/her bow will only make more problems by adding an overdraw. JMO. Good luck and nice talking with you.

BOHNTR )))-------------->