Arrow weight

MountainSqwabler

Active Member
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Quick question. So I have some grim reaper practice heads and they are at roughly 104gr leaving my total arrow at 419ish. With my 100gr field points I'm at like 415. All the actual hunting reaper heads are right at 100gr. Should I keep shooting those practice points? Stick to the field tips?? Because the field points and the practice tips aren't seeming to fly the same.
 
If they aren’t flying the same it probably has more to do with bow tune and/or arrow flight than those 4 grains. If you are hunting anything larger than deer, I’d suggest using a heavy insert and consider going with a four fletched arrow along with doing a paper tune on your bow.
 
If they aren’t flying the same it probably has more to do with bow tune and/or arrow flight than those 4 grains. If you are hunting anything larger than deer, I’d suggest using a heavy insert and consider going with a four fletched arrow along with doing a paper tune on your bow.
I've shot elk with the arrow set up I've got and blown through them, but these grims are just different. They are shooting accurately, but not the same as my field tips which is weird.
 
My arrows weigh 396, travelling at 300 FPS. Still using wack'em 3 blades. Blow right through elk. If the boradheads are shooting tight groups, just a slightly different spot than target tips, make the adjustment on the sight and forget it. If they are all over the place, get the bow tuned.....mind you I am not an expert...just a hunter.
 
Yeah, the best shooters in the world cant differentiate 4 g difference at 30 yds.

Its either an untuned bow, a form error or less than perfect arrow assembly. A bow that shoots FPs and BHs to the same exact POI is not only accurate, but quieter on the shot and more forgiving.
 
Every once in a great while, I will find broadheads that fly exactly as my field tips. For the rest, a simple tune is all that's needed which usually involves moving my rest (not my sight) to the left or right one click at a time until the broadheads are hitting the bullseye. This assumes that the bow is paper tuned, center shot set, etc to begin with.

As an example, Slick Tricks will fly exactly the same as my field points (100 gr tips with 75 gr inserts), but QAD broadheads require a little adjustment on my arrow rest.
 
Once you take the time to tune your to shoot BHs to the same POI as BHs…a light goes off in your head. You will be shocked. Ive seen friens that were shooting pretty good… but when tuned were just stacking arrows- they literally didn’t know how good of a shooter they actually were.

My process is; check cams on a draw board and at the same time check to make sure my dropaway rest is coming up at the last minute. Most bows shoot better with the top cam slightly advanced or dead even- check with the tech line. Set my rest to factory spec At center of the hole in riser.
Shoot bhs and FPs. I chase my FP group with yoke tune or tiny 1/32” rest moves. if you are moving the rest more than about 3/16” you 1) overshot, 2) have a form error, ) or have fletch contact.

Some guys that paper tune FPs over shoot the tune and have to go a tiny bit in the opposite direction.
 
Found out I was just shooting like crap lol. Didn't help that I was still nursing a shoulder injury so my aim wasn't the best. Got it figured out and am now back to trying not to hit my other arrows lol.
 

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