Assembled Muzzleloader VS Kit Muzzleloader?

ozstriker22 · Jan 8, 2004

Let's assume the person putting the kit together does not have his/her own workshop, owns basic household tools (wrenches, screwdriver, hammer, etc), is able to follow directions well and takes the time to do a quality job.

1. Do you think there is a difference in the accuracy / safety of a Muzzleloader that has been assembled from a kit vs one that was purchased as a manufactured finished product?

2. Do kit guns come out looking and working as good as factory assembled?

3. Does anyone have experience, in particular, with the Lyman Great Plains 50 cal?

Hmmmm.....

Sincerely,

"The Other Jesse"

RELH · Jan 8, 2004

Jessie;

Question #1. Normally no unless the person hones the trigger group and does not know what he is doing. Otherwise accuracy and safety should be the same for both.

Question #2. normally no, unless the person completing the rifle has good skills for doing stock work, polishing and metal refinish skills, and metal-wood inletting skills.

Question #3. Lyman has a good kit, but unless you have the above skills, you might want to consider buying a finished rifle.

RELH

ozstriker22 · Jan 8, 2004

So the parts in the Lyman kit that are included are unfinished? I figured they just took the finished stock, blued barrel, coated metal, springs, screws, etc and mailed them out in a box. Then the owner just screws everything together and, Ta-Daa!

If that's not the case, then you're right, I'd be better off buying a finished rifle!

Jesse

Weasel · Jan 9, 2004

I've finished a .54 cal. Lyman GPR.
Beside the tools you mentioned, you'll need draw files, small chisels or Xacto knife and blades, lots of sand paper, drill & bits, vise, stock and metal finish. You should probably have a few other files and a wood rasp.

#1 As far as accuracy and safety, probably not a difference. You will however end up having a better working knowledge of the rifle if you assemble it yourself.

#2 You already said you'd take your time to do a quality job, of course it'll be better looking than a rifle thrown together in the factory. I'm a "hack" and my rifle looks much better than factory. Better fit, better finish. The factory rifles come blued. You can slow rust your rifle so it has a period correct finish that is easy to do, long wearing and looks great.

RELH · Jan 9, 2004

Weasel;
you should be ashamed of yourself for telling big whoppers. You stated that you are a "hack" but your rifle ended up looking better then the factory job. If that is the case, you have lied about being a "hack" and took the time to do the job right.

RELH

Weasel · Jan 14, 2004

Okay, I'm busted! LOL! How about a partial confession? I'm generally a hack and I get in a hurry to finish something and it comes out looking worse than it could have. In the case of my GPR, I really took my time and I only worked on it when I was sure I could avoid frustration. At times I told my family if I ever mentioned starting another kit to just kick me in the hind end to bring me back to reality. I was anxious and frustrated at times and had to put it down and walk away. The closer I got to finishing it the more pride I felt in taking my time and doing a good job. Friends are surprised at how nice the rifle turned out and so am I! The nice oil finish and slow rust on the steel parts that weren't color case hardened was worth the effort. It's a great shooter too.

ozstriker22 · Jan 14, 2004

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "Slow Rust finish"

RELH · Jan 15, 2004

Another name for "rust bluing" you are not using hot bluing salts that require several tanks and heating the salts to 292 degrees. Also the slow rust process can come out as blue-black or brown in color depending on the type you use.
RELH

Weasel · Jan 16, 2004

Yep, RELH is right about the slow rust finish. It's basically a caustic liquid that causes the steel to rust. If you want a smooth finish you card it off before pitting starts and reapply until you get the desired finish. If you want a rougher, more rustic look you leave it on longer between cardings. For a blue/black finish you can submerge it in boiling water or pour boiling water over it. It's a real durable nice looking finish that is easy to do at home. It's a non-glare finish too so it looks great on hunting rifles.