DesperateHills & OTHERS??? DIESEL ENGINE OIL QUESTION???

elkassassin

Long Time Member
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15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil Is Perty Damn Thick/Like Tar at -20 Below & Colder!

Manufacturer is Recommending 15W-40 in the Summer Time & 5W-40 in the Colder Winter Time!

About the Only Brand That I Can Find that Offers Both Weights is the Shell Rotella T6 in Full Synthetic! (Both Being Full Synthetic!)

I Normally Don't Use Full Synthetic Oils!

But I Will if that's the only Choice without getting real Spendy!

I Have Run alot of Synthetic Blend Oils & Have Had Good Luck with them! (But I Don't see a Synthetic Blend that's offered in Both Weights in the Same Brand other than the Shell Rotells T6!)

I Don't See Where CHEVRON DELO/DELVAC/Or others Offer Both Weights in the Same Brand and Same 'FULL SYNTHETIC' or 'SYNTHETIC BLEND' other than the Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic!

If I Do Go With the SHELL ROTELLA Full Synthetic I'll Still Be Doing Oil Changes every 3,000 Miles!

I'm Not a Believer in them 7,500,10,000 or 12,000 Mile Oil Changes!

Your Thoughts?
 
I do 8,000 with at least half of that on dusty dirt roads.

That’s sorta the point of using synth by my way of thinking.
 
There's a reason you have a block heater in that thing...

I used a synthetic for a short while in my 7.3; got smart and quit using that stuff and went to delo 400 15-40 and never looked back.




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Wapiti Bob, If you don't mine me asking what year is your 7.3? I have a 97 206,000 and always used the Delo 400 15-40 its been good to me. Other than the bullcrap check engine light with the glow plug fault...
 
Hey Bob!

Ya!

I Use The Block Heater!

I've Got 260K on My Work Rig & I've Run it on DELO 15W-40 As Well! (Wish They Made the DELO in 5W-40!)

Block Heater or No Block Heater That Stuff is Like TAR when it's Cold!:D

So Bob?

Besides the Price?

What Else didn't You Like about the Synthetic Oil?






There's a reason you have a block heater in that thing...

I used a synthetic for a short while in my 7.3; got smart and quit using that stuff and went to delo 400 15-40 and never looked back.




View attachment 47236
 
It may pay you to send an oil sample to https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Then decide which brand of oil to use. They can tell you, perhaps along with bob is the oil guy dot com, which brand may be lower in zinc and ash content.

For my first diesel, it was Delo 400 synthetic. That was a 6.9 cornbinder motor that ran a very long time.

I have since switched to 5-40 Shell synthetic since I usually tow a lot.
 
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Nope, never had one. 4 Speed, 4.11 gears, dual fuel tanks. It was a good truck, except for the 300lb starter.
 
Both the 6.9's & early 7.3's would Run forever!

Without a Turbo You Couldn't Hurt Them!

But GEEZUS!

A Diesel without a Turbo?

Take The Turbo off of your New Pickup doc & Let us know how You like it?:D
 
I’ve been using 15-40w synthetic in the ole’ 5.9 cummins for the last 20 years and the truck has never left me stranded. Still drives like new and doesn’t struggle in the cold temps either.

Whattya driving Bess?
 
6.2!

LMAO!

Another NON-TURBO-ED DIESEL!
You are correct about the 6.9, and prolly the 6.2 also.

The 6.2 was awful but the f250 with the 6.9 was my favorite diesel truck. It ran strong compared to what I had driven up to that point.

That was 35 years ago!
 
So Bob?

Would You Mind Telling Us Everything You've Done/Replaced/Repaired on Your Truck in 450K+ Miles?

Door actuators ($20 for all 4 doors)
cam position sensor (maybe $25)
glow plug relays ($50 x ?)
ICP sensor ($115 x 2)
Ball joints (2x $700 for both sides upper/lower)
water pump
alternator
clutch (2x $1,000)
replaced injectors/glow plugs at 377,000 ($3,300)
heater fan at 400,000 ($35)
replaced radiator ($220), fuel pump ($88), fuel pressure spring assy ($22) at 440,000
 
Did you get the new version of the CPS? The stock ones and some of the early made replacements had the same fault. Easy enough to change, but still a pain if you get stranded. I have a couple new ones in my glovebox.
 
Door actuators ($20 for all 4 doors)
cam position sensor (maybe $25)
glow plug relays ($50 x ?)
ICP sensor ($115 x 2)
Ball joints (2x $700 for both sides upper/lower)
water pump
alternator
clutch (2x $1,000)
replaced injectors/glow plugs at 377,000 ($3,300)
heater fan at 400,000 ($35)
replaced radiator ($220), fuel pump ($88), fuel pressure spring assy ($22) at 440,000
You’re missing about 300 seals!
Unless you just have an oil tanker follow you!?
 
I replaced the cps so long ago I couldn't tell you. This truck doesn't leak oil nor burn it. I didn't look at the dip stick between oil changes.
 
I have had 2 6.7 SuperDuty's and all I run is Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 and I go about 10,000 between oil changes about half my driving is on ranch roads or lease roads the other half on highways. I have put about 10-15 percent of my miles pulling one gooseneck or another with the trucks. They have both worked great and I see about an extra 1 mpg with the Shell synthetic over the conventional oils.

I don't think you can go wrong with the Rotella, the first truck I sold at 275K when I would have had to replace the suspension if I wanted to keep towing with it and have 125K on this one.
 
Using Duron UHP in a new Ram. First oil change at 4k miles from factory oil, truck has 14,000 miles on it now and will wait till 19,000 miles to change it. 15k miles on an oil change. New 6.7 isn't using any oil yet.
 

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