paper tuning question

cabinfever · Jul 27, 2004

I'm confused when it comes to paper tuning. Every time I ask someone about how it works, I get a totally different answer. For example, I've been told that if I have perfect alignment with my nock and arrow rest than their is no need for a paper tune. I shoot a hoyt x-tec with the cam and 1/2 (it's only 4 months old) and I took it into a bow shop to have a final inspection before the hunt, and the guy told me the cost would be $10-$30. $30 seems a little high to me for a bow that I've been told doesn't need to have the cams tuned. I can't wait to get set up with all the equipment that I need to do my own tuning. I 'm quickly discovering that learning to tune my own bow and craft my own arrows is the only way to go. Any one that can give me a step by step process on paper tuning would be much appreciated.

cabinfever

p.s. any good books on tuning bows and crafting arrows.

SneakAttack · Jul 27, 2004

My first question is did you buy your bow from the same shop that is going to tune it? If so, you shouldn't pay for anything other than parts; i.e. string leaches, peep tube, that sort of thing. A good shop should take care of their customers.

But if you are new to this particular shop, $20 bucks or so doesn't sound too bad. The Hoyt guys on here should be able to tell you what degree of work and timing your cam & 1/2 might need.

As far as paper tuning goes, what makes you think you need to? If you are getting good target groups, and good broadhead flight why worry about paper? Maybe you're not getting good groups, if so have the guy who tunes the bow help you paper tune it. Good luck

c3 · Jul 27, 2004

Here's a link to the Easton Tuning Guide. This link will download a 500k zip file. Unzip it in a folder on your computer and you should be able to get all the information you need about paper tuning.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/pdfs/tuning_guide.zip

Paper tuning has great value if your form is consistant. If you can get your arrow flying clean through paper from 6" to 15 yards, you'll know that your arrow will be as true as possible when it hits an animal and thus will give you the best penetration.

I personally think it is extremely important to have perfectly flying arrows. Particularly with todays lighter arrow set ups that most of us shoot.

Offers still open if you want to get together to shoot it and do a little tuning.

Cheers,
Pete

cabinfever · Jul 28, 2004

Thanks Pete.

You always come through for me. I'm very passionate about the sport, however, it can be frustrating at times. I wish I had my own personal coach. I would love to get together with you and shoot some time, but if I recall you live in Salt Lake and I'm way down here in St. George. I do make it up their about 3-4 times a year, so maybe we can get together, and if your ever down here look me up. I will definately down load that file.
I do have another question though. I was told that I shouldn't shoot my Hoyt X-tec (60-70lb) at 62lbs because the max weight is 70lbs. When I bought the bow from Jakes Archery they assured me this would be ok at 62 lbs. I'm not sure what to believe anymore.I also shoot a Goldtip 5575 XT Hunter that is .003 straightness and a guy at a bow shop told me the 5575 Expedition Hunter at .006 straightness would fly pretty much the same. Another guy at another bow shop said I'd notice a big difference when my broad heads. What do you think? I will say that I'm not very impressed with the two Archery shops here in St George.T-N-T Archery has the worst customer service ever. I think if I'm going to stick with this sport, I want to learn how to do all my own tuning.

cabinfever

p.s. Is 241fps enough to do the job on deer and elk. I think my kenetic energy is 41 lbs. does that sound right.

sixgunn · Jul 28, 2004

Cabinfevr,
241 fps should be more than sufficient for killing with your setup. Your bow is fine to shoot at 62 pounds. A 60-70 lb range is standard and can be shot anywhere in that window. However, it is true that a bow always is in its top form at the top end of its poundage range....in your case 70lbs. About the arrows, you should not see a huge difference in those two but the .03 are the higher grade. Shoot them and see what you think. I would be willing to bet the average archer would not notice a lot. Now when you get technical and start shooting more serious ie. tournaments etc. then you would maybe choose to stay with the same to have absolute consistency. Good luck, sorry I know this ? was directed to C3 but thought I would give you some answers.
>>>------>Sixgunn<------<<<

c3 · Jul 28, 2004

No worries Sixgunn!

Cabinfever, I'd say you are closer to 48 lbs KE with your setup.

The formula goes like this:
(velocity * velocity * arrow weight in grains) / 45240 = KE

I'm guessing your 5575's to be 375 grains with 100 grain tips. My 28" carbons are 386 grains with 100 grain tips.

I've shot 5 animals with a bow that shot 235 fps with 410 grain arrows. Three were pass thoughs. One sailing out into Mtn Dell reservior about 35 yards after zippering a 4x3 buck. Another launched off a sage brush and into no mans land after zipping through a cow elk. Two of those that were not pass throughs were shoulder shots and the bucks died in short order and only went 10 and 80 yards.

I wouldn't worry too much about your speed or KE. Form, form, form. Just keep working at it and don't worry you'll get it wired in no time.

Here's a link that will get you to the best archery tuning and setup site on the web. It's where I've learned almost everything I know about the details of why these things work or don't work.

http://www.archerytalk.com

Do searches on any subject you could want to find out about. All the best target archers in the world hang out there quite often.

Don't forget that the getting there is where most of the fun is at. Learning to tune for yourself is quite fun and you will really be able to get it right the second time around. Making mistakes is half the fun of it. Just remember there is always something new to learn and no one has all the answers.

Cheers and good shooting to you,
Pete

c3 · Jul 28, 2004

.... by the way, 62 lbs is perfect for that bow. I shoot 63 lbs with my Ultratec. I don't believe that but 5 guys in the world could tell the difference between a bow that was maxed out at a poundage and one that was set at it's lowest weight for that poundage.

It may have been true in the old days but not with the new bows.

Cheers,
Pete

cabinfever · Jul 28, 2004

Pete

Thanks again. I printed that whole Eastons Tuning Guide, and immediately took it up and had it bound. I'll definately refer to it often. I will say, however, there is some pretty technical stuff in those 32 pages, but with time all figure it out. Ever thought of opening a bow shop. You definately have the know how.

cabinfever