peep sight ?

huntercameron

Active Member
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783
hey how many inches above the nocking loop do you put your peep sight ? please help me out thanks , how do you know where exactly to put the peep sight ?
 
There is no set distance. It’s based on your anchor, angle of string (ATA length), type of release, loop, etc. You will need to have it moved (up or down) while at full draw to ensure it is correct. When you do this, twists in the string or strands separated may be needed to ensure proper peep turn/alignment once at full draw. It will then need to be tied up to prevent slippage.

If you do not have a bow press and thoroughly understand how to tune/work on your bow, you NEED to take all of your gear/bow to a pro-shop and have them set you completely up. Ask questions, watch and learn. It’s an acquired talent that doesn’t happen overnight, but watching a tech perform is the first step, IMO.
 
There is no set distance. It’s based on your anchor, angle of string (ATA length), type of release, loop, etc. You will need to have it moved (up or down) while at full draw to ensure it is correct. When you do this, twists in the string or strands separated may be needed to ensure proper peep turn/alignment once at full draw. It will then need to be tied up to prevent slippage.

If you do not have a bow press and thoroughly understand how to tune/work on your bow, you NEED to take all of your gear/bow to a pro-shop and have them set you completely up. Ask questions, watch and learn. It’s an acquired talent that doesn’t happen overnight, but watching a tech perform is the first step, IMO.
thanks bohntr i appreciate it happy hunting !
 
Yep. Two person job. One to draw and anchor. One to move peep up or down.

The peep sight should be like the scope on a rifle, or bead on a shotgun. If you mount the gun with your eyes closed, the scope or bead should be in your line of sight. With the peep, draw and anchor and it should be looking through it at the pins.

And yes, an archery pro shop can help you with the peep, release selection, etc... And a few lessons go a long way as well. You may be able to find a bow cheaper online, and that's fine if you're an experienced shooter. But for the novice, many bow shops are a better place as they often offer a couple coaching sessions with the price of the bow, and you can try before you buy.

The first compound bow I bought to hunt with was from a local archery shop 20+ years ago. Had no clue what I wanted. Owner told me to close my eyes. He'd hand me a bow and have me draw and shoot with my eyes closed - with an arrow of course! Prices ranged from a $200 Champion bow to a $800 Matthews. After a few rounds and blind comparisons, I kept picking the Champion. Just felt better to me. And that's the one I bought.

Can't get that kind of attention online.

Visit a pro shop. And practice! Oh, and know where your bow shoots really close as well. You might feel like a fool shooting at 5 yards, but I messed up like that last year. Rattled one in from the ground. He walked right towards me and stopped less than 15 feet away, facing right at me, and I was at full draw! As he turned and started to walk away, I started thinking...At this close, I'll need to aim low...no. Aim hi. No, low. Or is it hi? I picked high and he was at 10 yards.

Wrong answer! My 20 yard pin is dead on at 5 and 20. A few inches high at 10 and 15. Yea. Sounds simple. But I hadn't shot at 5 and 10 yards, and at full draw on a deer is the wrong time to think about it.

Good luck. Post pics!
 
I like a kisser button. It feels natural to me for an anchor. Once you have a constant anchor you can set the peep . Do not stretch, bend, move adjust to see through peep. It should line up once set to look through when constant anchor point is aquired
 
If you have to slide a peep up or down on your string very far it will likely be twisted as it follows the twists in your string. You are best off by putting the bow in a press and relaxing the string so that it is installed properly. There is nothing more fun than fighting a twisted peep while shooting and especially during a hunt.
 
draw your bow and anchor it whichever way you normally do. Have another person use a paint marker or white out tip and move it out past the string so you can see the tip without moving your head or anchor point. Have them move it up or down until it is in the right position for your eye to center the sights while your string is anchored. Mark that spot put the bow in a press and install your peep. You shouldn't have to move it more than 1/8th" up or down.

If you just guess or measure approximately where it should be and install it you will likely have to slide the peep up or down enough that you screw up the twists in your string. If that happens you will need to remove and twist the string which means you will probably have to reinstall the peep again.

I've got an entire bowshop in my garage but I only work on my family and close friends equipment because I got tired of folks waiting to get their bows worked on until a week before the hunt.
 
I like a kisser button. It feels natural to me for an anchor. Once you have a constant anchor you can set the peep . Do not stretch, bend, move adjust to see through peep. It should line up once set to look through when constant anchor point is aquired
I am 60 and have bow-hunted since I was a teenager. I know that I am in the huge minority, but I don't use a peep at all, never have. Never could get used to one when they came out.

I do use a tied knot as a kisser button. I then line up my string with a line on my sight housing. I consider myself a very good shot. I practice with broad-head tipped arrows out to 100 yards. I may not be the best, but I can shoot with them.

There is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Just got to get enough hours of practice in. I shot year round daily for decades, now with a jacked up back that doesn't care much for drawing my bow, I shoot 1 arrow daily, sometimes 2. If/when I ever start missing I will quit.
 

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