Recurve to Compound Advice

[Coolio17]

Long story short, I got tired of waiting on rifle draw odds in my state and decided to slowly work on archery in the hopes of getting good enough to feel confident in taking an animal with a bow. I’be done plenty of rifle hunting, but bowhunting is different. I’m kicking myself for not learning when I had the opportunity, but at the time there was no reason to pick it up: archery didn’t extend the season nor give any advantages as far as the regulations.

Anyway, I did some research and purchased a decent recurve bow to see what everything is all about. Slowly (very slowly) I have gradually improved through a number of roadblocks (arrow rest, grip, nocking points, form issues, etc) to where I feel confident at shorter distances.

However, I am wondering if it’s worth it to make the move to a compound bow or just keep at it with the recurve.

I really like the simplicity of the recurve but I really feel that in a hunting scenario with my skill it’s going to be a 10-25 yard shot or nothing. I’m wondering how dramatic the difference is in being able to gain extra yardage with a decent compound bow.

I didn’t “over-invest” in my current set-up, but I feel like I’m at the point where I need to decide to go all in on a decent compound or just stay the course with my recurve.

Anyone made the switch and found that it was well worth it?

Side question: I’m assuming that I still have form issues, will a decent compound be able to “cover up” those issues?

 

[Katoom]

Compound will double your range, and your form and tuning adjustments will be greatly simplified. That said, I have only hunted with compounds and recently have been picking up my recurve to practice with both for the simplicity and for the challenge and accomplishment. They are both worthwhile pursuits.

 

[Coolio17]

Compound will double your range, and your form and tuning adjustments will be greatly simplified. That said, I have only hunted with compounds and recently have been picking up my recurve to practice with both for the simplicity and for the challenge and accomplishment. They are both worthwhile pursuits.

Thanks for the feedback. It would be nice to be on target a bit faster, but I also really like the simplicity of the recurve. I don’t know a ton of technical terms, but its fairly obvious how to fix it if something is not working correctly.

 

[JPickett]

Difference between a bicycle and a Ferrari. There’s folks who are fanatic about both and both will get you there. Comes down to what you want it to do

 

[JimNv]

I've taken many an animal with recurves and longbows. spot and stalk within 20 yards. Developed some issues with those and went to a compound where I took a couple of nice animals, all within traditional range. Came back to a recurve, reconnected and haven't looked back. Stay within that 25 yard range. Learn the wind. Learn to stalk. There is nothing more thrilling than getting in so close you just know that the animal can hear your heart beating itself out of your chest.

 

[HntHrdr]

I picked up a compound 3 years ago, practiced for one year and then have had tags the last two, so far two for two otc elk. A good friend and buddy had been hunting archery for 8 years (recurve) and had never killed, lots of times it came down to the elk came to 40 yards but his max range was 30. He picked up a compound and killed an elk that year. As I get older I might pick up a recurve just for something new to tinker with, but if I want to bring some meat I’m using the compound every time

 

[Coolio17]

I picked up a compound 3 years ago, practiced for one year and then have had tags the last two, so far two for two otc elk. A good friend and buddy had been hunting archery for 8 years (recurve) and had never killed, lots of times it came down to the elk came to 40 yards but his max range was 30. He picked up a compound and killed an elk that year. As I get older I might pick up a recurve just for something new to tinker with, but if I want to bring some meat I’m using the compound every time

Ya. I’m pretty much sold on getting setup with a compound bow. I didn’t apply for any archery this year. I really felt that even though I was finding target success with the recurve, an any legal weapon would give me a more enjoyable hunt.

My initial thinking (poor thinking) on picking up the recurve vs a compound was that: “what’s a difference of a few yards make anyway?”
^^^That was my rifle brain thinking ^^^

Reading articles and watching enough hunts made me realize that any advantage you can gain is likely a VERY good idea.

 

[HntHrdr]

Spot on man. I came from rifle hunting too, so I was a bit skeptical, but honestly, nothing better than chasing bugling bulls during the rut. Don’t get me wrong I have buddies that get it done with the struggle stick all the time, but I’m not that good yet, the extra 20-30 yards that the compound gives me helped put two elk in the freezer

 

[trophyhunter]

COMPOUND FOR SURE, SHOOT’M ALL AND CHOOSE WHAT’S IN YOUR PRICE RANGE. GO HEAVY ARROW WE SHOOT 566GR FOR ELK.
TOTAL PASS THROUGHS AT 45YDS, GOOD LUCK??

 

[Swivelneck]

Coolio,
Here's my 2 cents. There is no question about the effectiveness of hunting with a compound over a trad bow. The bicycle vs Ferrari analogy was spot on.
That said, I shoot/hunt with both depending on the quarry. I flat out enjoy the process of shooting a bow and arrow. Although both disciplines share common fundamentals, they are to me at least, two different animals.
Compound shooting and tuning is very much like shooting a rifle, whereas when I shoot my recurve it feels like I am throwing around the pigskin with my boys. No rangefinder, no pins, just 100% old school instinct. Every now and again that's exactly what I need, especially when the target panic sets in, but that's a topic for another day. But just like tossing the old skin, my max range is usually 30-40yds depending on how much/well I have been shooting. Sounds like you are well aware of shooting trad, so here's what I would do if I were starting out from scratch with a compound.
My best advice to you would be this. Head down to a reputable archery shop to get set up for a new compound. This does not mean however that you need to drop 3 grand on the most expensive bow in the building, there are many cost effective options today that would be some of the finest bows in the world 5 years ago.
If you can, have a buddy that has some compound experience join you. This will reassure you that the bow shop isn't trying to pull a fast one and oversell.
Have them measure your wingspan to get you the correct draw length. A ton of guys that don't shoot well have a draw length issue, usually too long.
-Once at the bow shop, choose a bow that feels good to both, DRAW and SHOOT! You are theoretically going to shoot a lot and I cannot stress how important it is that the bow you choose fits your hand, draws smoothly and has an overall "oooohhh that's nice" feel to it. Trust me you will know when you pick up the right one for you.
-Do your best to not chase the arrow speed thing. Kinetic energy is the real gold standard in archery hunting and most modern bows can produce more than enough energy to push a 450-550 grain or heavier arrow out at 70# with enough KE to handle anything our continent has to offer. If you can't hold back 70, it's not the end of the world, especially if you are tall. Tons of critters give up the ghost every year to 45-65lbs of draw weight. If you are a stud and you can shoot it accurately, by all means get yourself an 80 pounder.
-The longer the axle to axle length you can get away with realistically, the better. If you hunt 100% out of a tree stand or short ground blind you may end up needing to go for something with a shorter A to A length.
-Look for a bow with as long of a longer brace height as possible. Longer brace height generally equates to a more forgiving and accurate bow. Unless you are an extremely vertically challenged archer that needs the extra speed from a short brace height bow, choose long brace height. 7" or more is perfect. TWSS!
-Be open minded to different brands. If the shop near you doesn't have a large variety, check out a couple places. After many years and a dozen or so different compounds made by, PSE, Mathews, Bow Tec........ I shoot a Hoyt. This is very much a Ford/Chevy/Dodge conversation, to each his own. I may be in Prime next go round, we will see.....?
-Have someone who knows what's going on set up your bow. Whether that is the shop or a buddy, a bow that is not properly broken in (string/cable break in), then set-up and tuned properly will disappoint 100% of the time. Remember this, if it doesn't shoot good with field points, it will really not shoot well with broadheads.
-How you set it up is up to you, but I like the following for a beginner:
Drop away arrow rest.
5-pin fixed sight
Shoot a D-Loop
Caliper Release w/wrist strap
As small of a peep as you can clearly see through in fading light.
Depending on what string/cables come on your bow, a set of Winners Choice or other equivalent, aftermarket string/cables. Once broken in they are pretty darn bulletproof and don't hardly stretch.
-Have fun and shoot a lot!!!!
Sorry, got a little long winded there, good luck!!

 

[Coolio17]

Coolio,
Here's my 2 cents. There is no question about the effectiveness of hunting with a compound over a trad bow. The bicycle vs Ferrari analogy was spot on.
That said, I shoot/hunt with both depending on the quarry. I flat out enjoy the process of shooting a bow and arrow. Although both disciplines share common fundamentals, they are to me at least, two different animals.
Compound shooting and tuning is very much like shooting a rifle, whereas when I shoot my recurve it feels like I am throwing around the pigskin with my boys. No rangefinder, no pins, just 100% old school instinct. Every now and again that's exactly what I need, especially when the target panic sets in, but that's a topic for another day. But just like tossing the old skin, my max range is usually 30-40yds depending on how much/well I have been shooting. Sounds like you are well aware of shooting trad, so here's what I would do if I were starting out from scratch with a compound.
My best advice to you would be this. Head down to a reputable archery shop to get set up for a new compound. This does not mean however that you need to drop 3 grand on the most expensive bow in the building, there are many cost effective options today that would be some of the finest bows in the world 5 years ago.
If you can, have a buddy that has some compound experience join you. This will reassure you that the bow shop isn't trying to pull a fast one and oversell.
Have them measure your wingspan to get you the correct draw length. A ton of guys that don't shoot well have a draw length issue, usually too long.
-Once at the bow shop, choose a bow that feels good to both, DRAW and SHOOT! You are theoretically going to shoot a lot and I cannot stress how important it is that the bow you choose fits your hand, draws smoothly and has an overall "oooohhh that's nice" feel to it. Trust me you will know when you pick up the right one for you.
-Do your best to not chase the arrow speed thing. Kinetic energy is the real gold standard in archery hunting and most modern bows can produce more than enough energy to push a 450-550 grain or heavier arrow out at 70# with enough KE to handle anything our continent has to offer. If you can't hold back 70, it's not the end of the world, especially if you are tall. Tons of critters give up the ghost every year to 45-65lbs of draw weight. If you are a stud and you can shoot it accurately, by all means get yourself an 80 pounder.
-The longer the axle to axle length you can get away with realistically, the better. If you hunt 100% out of a tree stand or short ground blind you may end up needing to go for something with a shorter A to A length.
-Look for a bow with as long of a longer brace height as possible. Longer brace height generally equates to a more forgiving and accurate bow. Unless you are an extremely vertically challenged archer that needs the extra speed from a short brace height bow, choose long brace height. 7" or more is perfect. TWSS!
-Be open minded to different brands. If the shop near you doesn't have a large variety, check out a couple places. After many years and a dozen or so different compounds made by, PSE, Mathews, Bow Tec........ I shoot a Hoyt. This is very much a Ford/Chevy/Dodge conversation, to each his own. I may be in Prime next go round, we will see.....?
-Have someone who knows what's going on set up your bow. Whether that is the shop or a buddy, a bow that is not properly broken in (string/cable break in), then set-up and tuned properly will disappoint 100% of the time. Remember this, if it doesn't shoot good with field points, it will really not shoot well with broadheads.
-How you set it up is up to you, but I like the following for a beginner:
Drop away arrow rest.
5-pin fixed sight
Shoot a D-Loop
Caliper Release w/wrist strap
As small of a peep as you can clearly see through in fading light.
Depending on what string/cables come on your bow, a set of Winners Choice or other equivalent, aftermarket string/cables. Once broken in they are pretty darn bulletproof and don't hardly stretch.
-Have fun and shoot a lot!!!!
Sorry, got a little long winded there, good luck!!

Thanks for the great thoughts. This is very helpful and thought out.

My plan is to find a reputable shop (an archery shop, not a big box) and have them help set me up with something that fits and feels right.

I will be looking for something mid-range in price that is quality and effective (in the right hands). In terms of firearms for rifles I was a Remington, Ruger, or Savage type guy. I will try to look for something of that level in a compound: not very fancy, but quality.

I’m not quite ready to buy yet, but plan to visit a shop and make a good selection.

Meanwhile, I am going to keep working on my recurve skills.

 

[HntHrdr]

Great plan! I shot 6 different brands before I settled on mine, and it wasn’t what I thought it would be before I started the journey. Just go with what feels right for you

 

[Joe2Kool]

Lots of good comments (range, archery shop, etc.) A couple I'll add:

1) You can spend as much or as little as you want. Used bows are often available at archery shops.

2) Before you decide, close your eyes, have someone hand one to you, and shoot it with your eyes closed. This way, you're evaluating based on how it feels instead of how it looks, or the name on the side of it.

Case and point, I still shoot a $200 Champion bow I bought around 2000. Archery shop owner had me close my eyes and handed me several bows. $200 Champion. $800 Matthews. And others. The $200 bow just felt better. Yes, technology has advanced quite a bit in the last 20 years, but I have never felt limited by my bow. Granted, I'm an eastern whitetail bowhunter. When I draw my AZ elk tag, I will upgrade though!

3) Figure out your eye dominance. I'm right-handed, left eye dominant. I shoot a bow lefty because of that.

4) Personal preferences will fit you and only you. Example, I don't like the drop away rests. Too easy for me to "drop" the arrow in non-standard shooting positions. I don't use a D-loop because they can flop to the side, making it more difficult to attach the release sometimes. The bad thing about personal preferences is you don't know what you like and don't like until you like it or don't like it!

5) For a given bow and draw weight, kinetic energy doesn't change based on arrow weight. In other words, if your draw weight is 60#, and your arrow weight is 500 grains, and your KE is 70, switching to a lighter arrow will have the same KE. Speed will be faster, and flight will be flatter, but KE will be the same.

Good luck, and post some pics of that new rig when you get it!!

 

[Coolio17]

Lots of good comments (range, archery shop, etc.) A couple I'll add:

1) You can spend as much or as little as you want. Used bows are often available at archery shops.

2) Before you decide, close your eyes, have someone hand one to you, and shoot it with your eyes closed. This way, you're evaluating based on how it feels instead of how it looks, or the name on the side of it.

Case and point, I still shoot a $200 Champion bow I bought around 2000. Archery shop owner had me close my eyes and handed me several bows. $200 Champion. $800 Matthews. And others. The $200 bow just felt better. Yes, technology has advanced quite a bit in the last 20 years, but I have never felt limited by my bow. Granted, I'm an eastern whitetail bowhunter. When I draw my AZ elk tag, I will upgrade though!

3) Figure out your eye dominance. I'm right-handed, left eye dominant. I shoot a bow lefty because of that.

4) Personal preferences will fit you and only you. Example, I don't like the drop away rests. Too easy for me to "drop" the arrow in non-standard shooting positions. I don't use a D-loop because they can flop to the side, making it more difficult to attach the release sometimes. The bad thing about personal preferences is you don't know what you like and don't like until you like it or don't like it!

5) For a given bow and draw weight, kinetic energy doesn't change based on arrow weight. In other words, if your draw weight is 60#, and your arrow weight is 500 grains, and your KE is 70, switching to a lighter arrow will have the same KE. Speed will be faster, and flight will be flatter, but KE will be the same.

Good luck, and post some pics of that new rig when you get it!!

Ya, I’m ready to make the change. I definitely should have had more help with my recurve progress and purchases.

I think right now one of my biggest worries is using sights on the compound.

Instinctively, I am shooting and group fairly well. However, in experimenting with sights, I have struggled greatly. I have tried several different sights and I am all over the place.

 

[HntHrdr]

What specifically are you struggling with the sights with?

 

[Coolio17]

What specifically are you struggling with the sights with?

Maybe I am confused with how to line everything up/what the sight picture is supposed to look like.
I feel like maybe I am applying rifle logic on the bow.

Shooting instinctively felt natural to me especially once my form improved and figured out my shot process. It probably felt comfortable because it felt similar to waterfowl hunting with a shotgun.

Now, with several sights (very simple because I didn’t want to invest $$$ in recurve sights) I can’t quite grasp how to use them.

If the pin is the “front sight” what is the “rear sight” I am aligning (or does that not apply?)

 

[HntHrdr]

The rear sight is a peep that goes is placed in your string above where you nock the arrow, the then it is similar to an open sights on a rifle with the rear peep and front pin. You have to have a proper draw length and a solid anchor point among other things from keeping your POA and POI from shifting dramatically but I find it fairly easy. I chose a trigger release since that felt best for me and I line it up like a would rifle, settle my pin on the target and release

 

[Joe2Kool]

Sounds like you're missing the rear peep. It is about the side of a button, with a hole in the middle. It is mounted in the bow string and is close to your eye when you're at full draw.

The peep is the rear sight. When you're at full draw, look through it to the sight pins. The top pin will be the 20 yard ish pin. The second pin will be the 30 yard ish pin. And so forth. An archery shop can help you with proper placement of the peep.

With a little practice, you won't like to shoot at 20 yards twice. You'll be Robin Hooding the arrows.

I say ish because based on bow speed, arrow drop, etc, you may find it better to have pins at 15, 25, 35.

Big thing you'll hear, practice farther than you will shoot. Practicing at 40 yards makes 30 a chip shot. Practicing at 70 makes 50 a chip shot.