Savage Accidental Discharges?

BGbasbhat

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Hey all, need some more experienced perspective.

Have an older Savage 110 (flat back receiver from late 90s) I bought second hand that had an accidental discharge this past weekend, luckily while pointing in a safe direction. I was chambering a round with the muzzle straight up, and butt on my hip, trigger was not involved at all. I can't recall if the safety was on or off at the time.
No harm done, outside of a little ringing in my ears, and losing confidence in the rifle to have my son use it.

I have not taken it apart yet to see of any trigger work was done in the past, but I do know the trigger is very crisp and light. So questions:

1) Is it somewhat common, in certain pointing positions (i.e. up/down), for a rifle to discharge if the trigger was lightened considerably?
2) If this a Savage design flaw? Is this a universal commonality? Would a drop in trigger (i.e. Timney, Rifle Basix) resolve this? Can I just heavy up the trigger, and fix the issue?

My son needs to use the rifle in a month, and I don't want to chance anything happening obviously. I'm just trying to figure if I did something wrong, a new trigger would fix it, an adjustment would do it, or if the rifle needs some more serious work.

Thanks all for any perspective.
 
Yes I have heard of this problem with Savage rifles back then. You could do a search and I am sure you will see this come up. There may have been a recall if I remember correctly. You may want to contact Savage . In all honesty if it where my rifle. I don't think I could ever close the bolt again without that discharge in the back of my mind. Shooting is a mental game more then most people think. Personal I could never let my son shoot it again.
 
Thanks John. I am 100% on the same page with you, regarding it for my son. Yes, a replacement would be difficult to find (left-hand, 7mm-08), but just wasn't sure of the issue at hand, or how common/typical it is.
 
For example, I think this was a similar issue that Remington had on their X-Mark triggers? Swap the trigger, problem solved, confidence restored?
But I know, it scared the $hit out of me too. He's still young, so will never have a hold of it without me hovering over him, but still....
 
It’s worth taking apart and checking the trigger. One thing I think gets overlooked is how clean the trigger components are. If it’s a 90s era gun, that’s about 25 years old. Not sure how many times it gets fired a year but it could be dirty. A lot of people don’t clean their rifles that much and those that do, don’t use a guide rod so the oil, solvent and whatnot gets in the magazine and trigger and collects dust and dirt and it could be that one time it got hung up on the filth. Look into a new trigger as well. I always think that’s a good upgrade. It will take a lot to trust the rifle from now on, but it makes sense at a minimum to get a new trigger and test bump it and tap the action with a plastic mallet when assembled and try to duplicate what may have happened before loading it.
 
Thanks John. I am 100% on the same page with you, regarding it for my son. Yes, a replacement would be difficult to find (left-hand, 7mm-08), but just wasn't sure of the issue at hand, or how common/typical it is.
I guess they say Savages have come along way from what they once where. But being a old timer and remembering all of the old problems. I will never own one ! I am a right hand shooter but my father is a lefty so i do understand finding a lefty rifle. My dad has right handed sons. So he has a lot of Browning Bars. I guess some may call it a ambidextrous rifle. So if you can't get a gun smith to put a new trigger on that gun and you are in Utah. We can get him a gun to shoot for his hunt. Just say the word!
 
Thank you all. It sounds like the consensus is that a new/adjusted/cleaned trigger would likely fix the issue. I don't know all the inner mechanics of how the trigger/bolt/safety/etc. work together, so wasn't sure if a new/cleaned/adjusted trigger would give me the piece of mind I would need.

I'll find/buy a new rifle if needed, but if a new trigger (which I would prefer over an adjustment/cleaning) would restore my confidence, i'll look there first.
 
If that trigger has worn parts, such as the sear, cleaning it will not make it safe and adjusting it will not cure the problem. You said that trigger was crisp and light. That tells me it has worn in or bubba may have removed too much metal on doing a trigger job.
Since you purchased it used, you have no idea who may have tried to rework that trigger to lighten it. Having a gunsmith replace the trigger with a after market trigger will help to insure a safe rifle and will be the cheapest option.
RELH
 
John, that is very gracious of you, can't thank you enough for your offer and perspective. Understood on the BARs, and agree with you (used my GPa's Belgian BAR in my late teens).

Hopefully I can get this resolved here this week or next. Will circle back with what I find and test out.
 
If that trigger has worn parts, such as the sear, cleaning it will not make it safe and adjusting it will not cure the problem. You said that trigger was crisp and light. That tells me it has worn in or bubba may have removed too much metal on doing a trigger job.
Since you purchased it used, you have no idea who may have tried to rework that trigger to lighten it. Having a gunsmith replace the trigger with a after market trigger will help to insure a safe rifle and will be the cheapest option.
RELH

Agreed RELH. I've replaced triggers before, but would rather take any guesswork out of it and skip the cleaning/adjustments, and just replace...hopefully by a gunsmith if he can get it done soon.

In my short time with a Savage (and this issue), I've seen good reviews on Timney, Rifle Basix for a Savage pre-Accutrigger swap.
I'll ask the gunsmith when I call him today, but any opinions for a hunting application trigger to swap?

Thanks all again for your perspective.
 
Another question, I've swapped a few triggers on Rem700s, but just curious about swapping on a Savage. If a local smith cannot do in the next couple weeks..
From looking around, seems most just sell the trigger with adjustment screws/spring.
Wouldn't the entire sear, safety, assembly need to be replaced? I suppose if somebody messed with the trigger, it would have just been the single trigger part, but it doesn't look like the whole mechanism like the Rem700s i've done.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006424717?pid=223896

 
I never replaced a trigger on a savage before. I have on M77, M700 and A-Bolts. I can’t imagine it’s too difficult. RELH has a point. Although I’ve replaced my own triggers, I also had gunsmiths do it too. The gunsmiths are better at the little details than me. It’s usually not just punching out two pins out and putting the new unit in and screwing it back together. The gunsmiths will do things like shim the trigger to take up left/right slack and other adjustments where the diy guy won’t. Most that buy a Timney, I can’t speak for Rifle Basix, will just follow the directions and call it good however it turns out.
 
Those are pretty easy to put a new trigger in. Order a Timney, and put it in yourself. Watch a YouTube video if you need instruction.
 
If you are in Arizona, Timney is in Phoenix, and, pre-Covid, would install a trigger assembly while you waited. I'd call and find out if they still do.
 
I second the timney trigger. I have several.
I would bet someone did some polishing on your current trigger and changed the sear angle. The new trigger should fix you up. Rifle basix is also a good hunting trigger. The replacement of the trigger is something you could easily do on your own. Savageshooters.com is a wealth of knowledge should you need help
 
I would echo what others here have said. I wouldn’t trust that someone without the proper knowledge or tools messed with the trigger to make it lighter or crisper. If anything was cut/stoned/ground improperly it would need to be replaced.
The easy route and probably the one that would give the most confidence is just swap it for an aftermarket trigger.
While you have it apart give the action/trigger area a good thorough cleaning and also the bolt/bolt body.
I’ve seen some used rifles that I’m shocked still even functioned due to neglect and gunk/grim. WD-40 has its uses but definitely not on a gun.??‍♂️
 
When I added the timney spring to my A-Bolt, I noticed how dirty the trigger area was. It was 20+ years of cleaning without a bore guide and lots of Sweets®️7.62 solvent that must have leaked through the action. I shoot a lot of solids through it.
 
When I added the timney spring to my A-Bolt, I noticed how dirty the trigger area was. It was 20+ years of cleaning without a bore guide and lots of Sweets®️7.62 solvent that must have leaked through the action. I shoot a lot of solids through it.
More harm is done to rifles by improper cleaning than by shooting. A bore guide is a must when cleaning a bolt action rifle.
 
Thank you all for the advice! Though I'm confident I can handle a swap, I'd still like to bring it to a smith and have him check everything over again. Being a second hand and rebarreled rifle, I'm going to have him check headspace, extractor, etc.

Your advice and perspective is much appreciated. I will keep updated with what the smith finds. Below are attached pics when I took off the stock last night to snoop around.

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I can see by looking at the pictures that the trigger spring adjusting screw is backed way off and there is not much tension on the spring. By simply turning this screw to give the trigger spring more pressure should fix your issue. ce61
 
Ce61 naiked it. That tension screw is way to loose. Doesnt look like any filing has happend at least by the pictures. Try tightening that screw under the srping and do a few bump tests. Once you tighten it you will have a different trigger pull as that will increase the pull weight. If you do some looking around they sell a lighter weight spring that gets the pull weight down whlie keeping appropriate tension on the spring.
 
Thank you guys very much. Again, my ignorance showing here, but a backed off tension screw could allow the firing pin to deploy just by closing the bolt?
I could understand if I bumped the stock causing jarring and the super light trigger to go...however, I had the butt on my hip, right hand on the forend, and left hand closing the bolt when it fired.

I just don't know the inner workings of how the bolt closing interacts with the trigger system.
 
Thank you guys very much. Again, my ignorance showing here, but a backed off tension screw could allow the firing pin to deploy just by closing the bolt?
I could understand if I bumped the stock causing jarring and the super light trigger to go...however, I had the butt on my hip, right hand on the forend, and left hand closing the bolt when it fired.

I just don't know the inner workings of how the bolt closing interacts with the trigger system.
You need enough spring pressure to keep the trigger/sear set and engaged with the cocking piece or the firing pin will fall like what happened to you.
Also looks like there is some rust on a few parts of the trigger and possibly even internal parts.
2CE109CA-0310-4A3D-A6C4-5F64756EF033.jpeg
 
Since you have it out of the stock, how does the bedding look? It might be worth it to bed the action while it’s out of the stock and when the trigger is removed. It’s not worth much unless you’re after a little better accuracy. Don’t do it unless you are real serious. Some people are ok with Minute of Deer accuracy and that’s fine, especially for a younger shooter. I usually take it as an opportunity to clean everything like the bolt and barrel and even take apart and sonic clean the bolt, pin and components, inspect the crown, bed, and remount the scope with all of the lapping and leveling tools and torquing tools. If you’re going to a gunsmith, he should have what it takes to do those things.
 
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Thank you guys! I reassembled it after taking a few pictures last night. The stock is a Savage stock (emblem on the grip cap), that looks to be originally action and pillar bedded(?). Heavy, but fit pretty good and tight on the action. Had to work it pretty good to get it out after the removing the screws.
Having tried to glass bed before, it looked waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy better than aftermarket/DIY job. Not sure if Savage ever made an OEM stock like that (maybe a predator version or something).

Yep, the rifle was in CA with the prior owner, so some moisture could be there. I think you are right though, I'd want the smith to go through the bolt, bore, etc as well. I love doing that stuff, but he'll be light years better at it, and I'm kind of in a time crunch for his deer hunt back in MO mid-Nov.

Have it in my car now and taking it over to him later this afternoon. Fingers are crossed all is good.
 
Thank you guys very much. Again, my ignorance showing here, but a backed off tension screw could allow the firing pin to deploy just by closing the bolt?
I could understand if I bumped the stock causing jarring and the super light trigger to go...however, I had the butt on my hip, right hand on the forend, and left hand closing the bolt when it fired.

I just don't know the inner workings of how the bolt closing interacts with the trigger system.
So I had a homeboy adjust the trigger on my Remington 700 ADL a long time ago. Said he knew how to do it and reduced my trigger weight. I watched him do it and it seemed all good.

However, once I placed it back into the stock, it wouldn't work. After checking it several times over and going through working the bolt and trying to fire it, we realized he set it so loose that when I closed the bolt--the trigger went off.

We took it off, adjusted the trigger back a bit and have never had an issue since (about 20 years). But, it was scary to realize that it could have gone off just by closing the bolt.
 
Thanks for the experience Snoop, and reassurance it can still be a good (and safe) rifle for the future. Like BigJohn said earlier, it makes me pretty nervous to even think of something like that happening again, so I definitely need to remedy what's going on.
 
So I had a homeboy adjust the trigger on my Remington 700 ADL a long time ago. Said he knew how to do it and reduced my trigger weight. I watched him do it and it seemed all good.

However, once I placed it back into the stock, it wouldn't work. After checking it several times over and going through working the bolt and trying to fire it, we realized he set it so loose that when I closed the bolt--the trigger went off.

We took it off, adjusted the trigger back a bit and have never had an issue since (about 20 years). But, it was scary to realize that it could have gone off just by closing the bolt.
This is what happens when a person doesn’t understand how a trigger works and how one adjustment correlates to others.
Glad you guys got it back working but I’m willing to bet that trigger is still somewhat out of tune. Do you remember if you guys adjusted all 3 screws and did you reseal them?
 
This is what happens when a person doesn’t understand how a trigger works and how one adjustment correlates to others.
Glad you guys got it back working but I’m willing to bet that trigger is still somewhat out of tune. Do you remember if you guys adjusted all 3 screws and did you reseal them?
Sorry, I do not recall. From what I remember, he knew what he was doing, but the whole crux was that we had no trigger scale to gauge poundage. Potentially scary repercussions.
 
Like someone said before, whether modified trigger, brand new trigger, light trigger, dirty trigger, heavy trigger, accidentally bumped trigger, nothing can substitute for being safe and keeping the muzzle pointed in a safe direction......

still gives me the willies when it happened out there with my son. Makes me want to bowhunt more.....even though i'm terrible at it.
 
Let us know what you find and how you resolve it. This is very interesting. I'm with you as I would never trust it again.
 
For example, I think this was a similar issue that Remington had on their X-Mark triggers? Swap the trigger, problem solved, confidence restored?
But I know, it scared the $hit out of me too. He's still young, so will never have a hold of it without me hovering over him, but still....
That may be a fix for you...get a new trigger. There are a couple gunsmith forums on FB who may be able to offer more precise help.
 
10-4 feddoc. Dropped it off at the smith the other day and he agreed that starting "anew" would be the safest bet. Thanks for the perspective. Hope it goes well.
 
Thanks Stinky. I was thinking the same, but under my time crunch and that is was rebarreled, I was thinking it may be too much trouble to send back to Savage.

The gunsmith said a couple weeks with a new Timney and bolt/safety/mech cleaning/function test.

Keep all posted.
 

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