SCOPE MOUNTING QUESTIONS?????

MULEYSTALKER · Mar 25, 2004

I'AM IN THE PROCESS OF SHOPPING FOR SOME RINGS AND BASES FOR MY NEW RIFLE SCOPE COMBO. I HAVE A WEATHERBY VANGUARD RIFLE IN .270 WIN. AND A ZEISS CONQUEST 3-9X40MM SCOPE. I WAS JUST WONDERING WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN LOW BASES, MEDIUM, AND HIGH? AND WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST TO USE ON MY RIFLE. AND WHAT RINGS AND BASES ARE OF GOOD QUALITY. I KNOW THE BIGGER THE OBJECTIVE LENS ON A SCOPE THE HIGHER YOU HAVE TO MOUNT IT BUT 40MM IS ABOUT AVERAGE ISNT IT? MY RIFLE HAS A MONTE CARLO STOCK IF THAT CHANGES ANYTHING. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY INFO. THANKS GUYS YOU HAVE BEEN A REAL HELP!!!!

MULEYSTALKER

kilowatt · Mar 25, 2004

MS,

I put the same scope on my Weatherby Mark V in .300 Weatherby Mag. and went with the Leupold Rings Medium Bases. Mine are the Dual Dovetail Mounts in Matte finish.

Brian

fisrtcoueswas80inches · Mar 25, 2004

i had a 40mm mounted on my rifle with leupold rings, didnt like it, sent it back and got a 50mm, the rings are to low and i need to get medium or maybe even tall oones. normal should be ok for 40 mm
casey

Bambistew · Mar 26, 2004

Buy a set of tally one peice light weight in medium and be done with it...only two parts insead of 4, their rock solid and very dependable and will cost you less or about the same as set of Leupolds of lesser quality... Check out bearbasin.com they have some of the best prices around.

RLH · Mar 26, 2004

i've always liked the old weavers with the band that goes around the scope. never had much trouble with them. just get em real tight. it's kind of a pain to get the crosshairs straight sometimes. i never liked the one piece rings. always seem to be in the way when i'm in a hurry to reload. have several rifles with leupold rings too, and they are ok. a little more expensive, but never any problems with them. keeping the scope as close to the barrel as you can is supposed to be better, but i usually use medium or high rings because i like to pack my rifle by the scope lot. makes a nice handle and i've never had it get outta whack where i thought it was from using it like that. the higher rings give me more room for my fat fingers. i really like the ruger concept of having the bases being part of the action too. about the only cuss i have on the weavers is that they just have a slot for a screwdriver. allen or torqs heads are a lot better. main thing is to get em tight and maybe use some loktite on the screws. don't just get em snug, they will get loose. tiiiiiiight is the way to go.

DUVY · Mar 26, 2004

Wow, RLH
That is the first time I have ever heard anything good about Weaver mounts, they have been the joke around are hunting camp since i was a kid if any one missed an animal it was "what you got weaver mounts" Lots of stories their, even a lost scope.
I hear their new scopes and rings are a great set up though.

Personally,I like Leupold's solid base and rings I know I can smash my scope all over the place and it wont move, I dont know I'm kinda set in my ways kinda guy,Im sure their is alot of great scopes and rings on the market, but I still think Leupold is the best.

RELH · Mar 27, 2004

MuleyStalker;
I see that you took our advice and bought the Howa rifle. As for rings, get the Leupold's in medium height for a 40 mm scope. I like the two piece bases, some like the one piece base. If I remember correctly the Leupold bases made for the Remington 700 will fit the Howa action. RLH and I agree on alot of things, except for Weaver rings, I hate them for anything outside of a 22 cal rimfire. When you get everything put together, try some Federal Supreme ammo in your caliber and lets us know if you got groups under 1 inch for three shots at 100 yards. I bet you will.
Be sure and degrease the screws, mount and rings, and use devcon or fingernail polish on them to stop them from backing loose due to vibration.

RELH

MULEYSTALKER · Mar 28, 2004

Thanks for the informations you guys have really helped me out. I appreciate it. I'm really happy with my rifle and scope and thanks too you guys.

thanks

MULEYSTALKER

bobcatbess · Mar 28, 2004

WEAVER RINGS???

I'VE GOT A GUN THAT WILL MAKE SCRAP METAL OUT OF THEM WITH ONE SQEEZE OF THE TRIGGER!!!

THEY ARE O.K. FOR A KIDS .22!!!

THE LEUPOLD SOLID BAR WITH MEDIUM HEIGHTH USSUALLY DOES THE TRICK!!!

I'M SURE THERE ARE OTHERS THAT WORK AS WELL!!!

CHUTE PLANES ARE RUFF,THE WEAVER RINGS JUST AIN'T GONNA HOLD UP!!!

SEEN A GUY BUY A 600.00 SCOPE AND BOLTED HER DOWN WITH WEAVER MOUNTS,I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT!!!

THE ONLY bobcat THINKING:THE MOUNTS ARE USSUALLY CHEAP COMPARED TO WHATS SITTING ON THEM!!!

RLH · Mar 29, 2004

i've never had weaver's that i installed come loose. i'll admit that they take a little more attention than some others. but just like anything else, you have to get them tight and install em like you know what you're doing. and use a little loctite. i've used them for 40 years. first scope i ever bought was a weaver k4 with a dot reticle. ordered it and a set of weaver rings and bases from the local gas station when just a kid. payed $40 for the whole outfit. still have it on the same rifle. i like leupold rings fine too, even prefer em, but weavers don't scare me a bit. just like anything else, you have to do it right. i've seen folks have hell with leupold rings, talley's, sako's, ruger's. but they were dumb@$$e$ and did a sorry job of installing them. if you do ever use weavers, here's another tip, put the ring tightening knobs on the side away from the bolt. one less thing to get hung up on while reloading.

Coach Hunt · Mar 29, 2004

Howdy,

I've never had a set of Weavers get loose either, and that includes a lightweight and hard kicking .340 Weatherby with "hot" ammo. The last new rifle I got was a Win. mod. 70 classic in stainless steel. I tried to use Leupold bases and rings, but could not move the scope ( Nikon ) close enough to my eye to be comfortable. I switched to the Weaver system. Its lighter weight, solid, very adjustable, and works fine. I have had Leupolds and Burris and Redfields get loose. Perhaps that was my lack of experience rather than a design flaw. I've learned a few things over the years, and loose rings and mounts don't happen anymore.

Best to you and your new setup... whatever mounts and rings you go with.

Coach

NMRaptor · May 4, 2004

New question....same subject.
This evening I am going to mount the new scope I purchased on two piece leupold bases. One ring attaches to the base with a twist and dovetail and the other rings attaches to the base with beveled set screws. It seems to me that it may be somewhat difficult aligning the scope with the beveled set screws. Does anyone have any pointers on mounting scopes these type of bases?
-Raptor

RANGERCON · May 4, 2004

NMRaptor, not sure I understand your question. Leupold rings are, I believe split horizonal, making them very easy to install a scope. The rings, once you lock them down, should be square.
Make sure NOT to overtorque your torx head screws on the rings.
(Iam sure you know that, but I have come close to pinching a few scopes.)
Your scope should adjust out any descrepencies.

I have not mounted them in a long time. But, I think they should install nicely.

Are you using a bore sight?

I align my reticle by hanging something heavy, like a bolt, so the string is perfectly verticle against a light back ground. Back up a bout 15-20 yards or so. Check your reticle and when it is perfectly straight, slowly tighten your cap screws.

Man, I love getting new scopes!!!

RELH · May 4, 2004

NMRaptor;
No problem, in fact the leupold base will allow you to use those two rear beveled screws for the rought windage ajustment.
I have seen some scopes run out of windage adjustment because the screw holes in the receiver were not drilled center to the barrel, we are talking thousands of an inch here.
I use a bore sight to mount my scopes, and they will be on target for the first shot, if the screw holes are centered. By on target, I mean it is hitting the target where I can finish the fine adjustments.
Get the scope mounted with all screws tighen and loctite on the base screws and scope ring screws. Try to center those two beveled screws as best as you can.
If you do not have a bore sight, go to the range and sight your first shots in at 25 yards. You want the elevation to be dead on at this range. If your windage is off to the left or right, you use the rear scope base screws to move the bullet strike to the left or right as needed. Lets say you adjusted the elevation to dead center by moving the cross hair adjustment down five clicks, but the bullet is hitting to the right about 4 inches at 25 yards. This will put it off 16 inches at 100 yards and means you must use 64 clicks left windage by using the scope adjustment. Instead of doing this, your scope may not have that much adjustment. loosen the left beveled base screw about 1/2 turn, and tighten the right beveled screw 1/2 turn and the next bullet impact should strike closer to your aiming point. Do this several times until you are hitting the aiming point dead center, then finishing up by going to the 100 yard target. I am starting you out at 25 yards in case your scope is mounted far enought off that it will shoot to the side of the target at 100 yards. Hard to make your adjustments if you do not know where the bullet is hitting.
There is another method that you can use to sight your gun in with only one shot, but it sometimes requires two persons on a good rifle rest where the gun will not move while you make the adjustments. The one I gave you is very simple way to sight the rifle in. When you think that you have it sighted in, allow the barrel to cool 15-20 minutes, then fire a 3 or 5 shot group to confirm your sight in and to check your rifle for grouping.
The 25 yard sight in should put your bullet impact about 2-3 inches high at 100 yards.
RELH

mtmuley · May 4, 2004

I know I some of you guys might think I am a scaredy-cat, but I let my gunsmith mount my scopes. Usually the rifle is there for something else anyway. I did learn some stuff from this thread though. mtmuley

RELH · May 4, 2004

Mtmuley;
That is a very good way of getting it done, just as long as you complete the final sighting in yourself. I have seen some gun owners screw up their scope by improper mounting. paying 20 bucks for proper mounting is cost effective over screwing up a 300.00-800.00 scope.
I have also mounted scopes for other hunters and get it bore sighted in for them, I have found that some hunters believe if the scope has been bore sighted, it is ready for hunting. I get lucky once and awhile and have gotten the scope dead on with just bore sighting. I always tell the rifle owner that he must go to the range and shoot the rifle to ascertain if it is on, or needs finish adjustments, which is needed most of the time.

RELH

NMRaptor · May 5, 2004

Thanks for the information fellas. I mounted it last night. I did encounter a small problem. The torx screws for the bevelled screw base were just a bit too long and weren't allowing the bolt to clear. I filed them down a bit and that took care of the problem. You were right on the money RELH and Rangercon. I used a bore sighter and adjusted the bevelled screws to set the alignment. It sure looks good.....can't wait to get on the range. Thanks again for the pointers.
-Raptor

RELH · May 5, 2004

Raptor;

We are happy that we were able to give you some help, I hope you have a long happy relationship with your new rifle and scope and enjoy many hunting trips.
RELH

mtmuley · May 5, 2004

Raptor, Glad you're set up and ready to hit the range. RELH, It is amazing how some people figure bore-sighted to mean sighted in. Alot of folks would benefit from hanging out on MM. mtmuley

RELH · May 7, 2004

MtMuley;

I agree with you, this forum can be used for needed information for various hunters. I have seen numerous members on this forum, that have alot of information on certain things that can be used by another hunter. I guess you can call it, "hunters helping hunters".

RELH