100 vs 200 yd zero?

Hello everyone. I've got a fairly quick question. The other day I mounted my first BDC style scope on my 300wsm which I plan on using for most of my big game hunts out west. In the past, with standard duplex reticles, I zero my rifles at 200 to make shots out to 300 fairly easy with a very small amount of holdover. With this Meopta mcwhorter BDC reticle, I'm torn on whether to zero it at 100 or 200 yds. Thoughts?

200 yard zero then shoot to verify the bdc numbers.

+1
What he said.

If I had a standard crosshair I would zero it to 300 yards especially since you're using a 300wsm. That way you're actually taking advantage of the mag trajectory.

Determine what your mid range trajectory (high point) is and what you MPB range can be depending on the size critter you plan of hunting. I think it would surprise you at the distances you can shoot with no hold-over. Usually you'll be able to shoot to 350-375 yards without doping higher or lower for the range.

Zeke

I don't know anything about that scope or reticle but if it has preset holdovers in it you're going to have to zero for what it was intended to be zeroed at.

I hope you have better luck with that type system than I have.
















Stay thirsty my friends

200 sounds right to me,but I don't know much.
I do know it does make a difference in what the scope manufacturer recommends.
And what kind of reticle? Dot's ,bar's ?

I have a Nikon BDC on my TC mz and but not real happy with it. It only works on high power,and the dots are big and heavy,IMHO.
Don't get me wrong ,it works and is clear,but I would have liked a light bar style instead,like Leupold. Now everyone makes one for mz.

Heard good revues on the Meotopa tho.

I have a Zeiss scope on one of my rifles with the BDC and it states in the booklet.....sight in at 100 YARDS. The dots/circles below the + are then set for those increments which ever they are from Zeiss....don't remember right now.

FOLLOW THE MAKER OF SCOPES INSTRUCTIONS.

Brian
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>FOLLOW THE MAKER OF SCOPES INSTRUCTIONS.
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>Brian

+1
....and then shoot the hell out of it so YOU KNOW what it does at the respective and appropriate ranges!

Zeke

Zero at 200, any of today's modern catridges appropriate for big game can easily place premium bullets into the vital zone out to 300 yards. No hold over, no guessing windage and no bullet compensating scope to purchase.



2F350s: Spend the money on additional licenses and HUNT more!

The instructions that came with the scope should tell you at what range to sight it in. You would be smart to follow those instructions or you may have problems at longer ranges because the other aiming points are off.

After sighting in per the instructions, confirm the longer range aiming points by shooting a target at those ranges.

Some scopes with BDC features will have you sight in at 100 yards, many others will have you sight in at 200 yards.

RELH

LAST EDITED ON Aug-13-14 AT 02:46PM (MST)[p]The main difference for sighting in a BDC type scope is the original velocity of the cartridge. Magnum or high velocity cartridges that can exceed 3000 ft. per sec usually require a 200 yard zero. Why? because they normally fall below that velocity level when they get to 100 yards, like most standard cartridges do out of the bore. Hence the difference when sighting in. Ballistic compensated reticles are calibrated to run for standard cartridges and velocity's that's why they work so well, and why when the magnum cartridges fall into the same velocity range the marks work for them too. Read the manual with the scope and use their website if they offer one to assist you with your learning curve.

The trick is you have to know how fast the ammunition shoots out of your gun to compensate for it. Then given the bullet type BC and velocity you can see the trajectory for your load. Bullets follow a predetermined flight path by velocity and bullet design and that's why the information is in reloading manuals and on ballistic programs. Yes there are compensating factors for hair splitting due to other factors but for most shots at distances under 400- 500 yards in perfect conditions, it becomes less relevant. Range finders today take the guess work out of many shots and the hash marks on the reticle simplifies things for the shot.

If you look at 30 caliber bullets of the same approximate weight, design, and velocity they follow a similar trajectory. The same with 7MM , .270 etc. look in the back of any reloading manual and you'll see what I mean. The marks on your scope work with many bullets at the normal velocity's for the cartridge NOT ALL. They are NOT dialed in exactly to hit a bulls eye but they are dialed in to hit a kill zone for a deer or an elk etc.

Practice shooting at the longer yardages to verify that they work for your gun because other wise you'll have no idea if they work for your load at all. Besides knowing you can actually make the shot is over half the battle in filling any tag, and making your hunt successful.