Re-position antlers?

huntfishall1

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Can anyone tell me how hard it would be to have a taxidermist re-position the antlers on a finished mule deer shoulder mount?

I always cut the skull in half in order to ship my antlers back with some gear in a large box. The last mule deer I got had a fairly narrow rack. To make a long story short the antlers on the mount are definitely narrower than in real life - I took measurements and have pictures. Somewhere there was a mistake. I'm done using the taxidermist and looking for a new one for several reasons, but wanted to know how difficult if would be (or how much $$$) to have another taxidermist reposition the antlers to what they were in real life.
 
Ryan, The top of the cape would have to be rehydrated, unsewn, remove the clay or mache that was used around the skull plate, then move the antlers to where they should be. Then put everything back together. I would charge around $80-$100 to do this. Not difficult to do but much easier if it had been done correctly the first time around.
 
You need to make sure that the cape was tanned before you try to rehydrate it. Some taxidermists will use a dry preserve.
 
LAST EDITED ON Aug-23-12 AT 08:38AM (MST)[p]Sounds like the antlers were not attached or put back together properly after they were split...it's more than likely there are other problems with the mount also....I would consider obtaining a new cape and having the buck remounted....

On all of my mounts, because I use a strong, epoxey hide paste, it would be nearly impossible to rehydrate the tanned hide on the head and pull it apart without ripping or destroying the cape, and pull the antlers off the head form in order to reposition them... plus, the skull plate is permantely attached.

But this is how I do my mounts...I can't speak for other Taxidermists.

Good luck!
 
I appreciate all the responses. I guess I'll wait to find a new taxidermist and have them look at it to see if it's possible without destroying the cape. I'm assuming the two halves of the skull weren't put back together properly before they were mounted on the form. There are a few other minor things that could be corrected as well but I could live with them - but the antlers need fixed. Wish I would have looked at it closer before leaving the shop.
 
Hunt fish, I do have a future suggestion that could assist you in avoiding this problem. Often we receive skull plates that are split in a straight line down the middle. When this is the case we are usually estimating what the spread is. However if yo split your skull plate with two cuts in a sideways "V" formation the skull will only go back into position where it belongs. I hope this helps you and best of luck next time.
 
LAST EDITED ON Sep-02-12 AT 05:12PM (MST)[p]Tristate, I always leave plenty on skull when I cut off the rack, such that if it was glued or epoxied back together there would be no doubt on the spread. The skull has enough "curve" for lack of a better term, plus thickness, that if the spread was incorrect when the two pieces put together you would have a very obvious gap somewhere in the skull plate if done incorrectly. Now the taxidermist might cut the extra skull amount off prior to gluing or mounting them on the form, but they should take measurements if there will be any doubt once they trim. Unfortunately I learned a lesson with this taxidermist and should have probably known better in using him - it's a complicated story.
 

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