Couple things first. The most reliable draw length measurement is called the "wingspan method". This is where you take your wing span, finger tip to finger tip stretched out as far as you can reach. Subtract 15" then divide by two. This would be the AMO draw length you should get that is listed on the bow. There have been years and years of discussion on this subject on all the forums and virtually everyone will fall within a 1/2" of that number when set up correctly.
Secondly, you have to watch the string angle from the release to your nose. The shorter the axle to axle the steeper the string angle and the more your head has to angle down to get the string to the tip of your nose. Conversly you can get a bow with a longer draw length and have the string come further back on your jaw line so that your head is up, but that causes anchor issues.
The draw length vs. a-a vs. string angle vs. anchor point is always a battle when you get to the longer draws with shorter bows.
I'm only a 28" or 27.5" draw length but prefer my head up and square. This requires an a-a length at my draw length of 37" or so depending on which cam size gets me there. An Alphamax 35 is barely shootable for me. The 737 or my old Ultratec were perfect.
An Alphamax 32 at 27.5" draw length forces me to have my head so low that the bridge of my nose covers part of the sight picture. I can hardly see the target with that bow. On it or a Mathews Monster I need almost a 29" bow to get my head up so that I can see and shoot comfortably. This is much too long to get a good anchor position under my ear with my index finger big knuckle.
Moral of the story is that the longer a draw you have and the shorter the a-a, the steeper the string angle and the more difficult it can be to keep your head square and up right with your nose on the string.
My suggestion is the Drenalin LD as well. It's just so much smoother to draw and shoot than all these new "speed bows"
Cheers,
Pete