New Mathews Z7 setup and questions?

[erik1972]

I just last month upgraded from a Swithcback to the new Z7. I like the Z7 alot. Its pretty fast and very accurate. Some times when I think I pulled it or made a bad shot, I will walk down the get my arrows and realize the shot was perfect. I do have some questions on my setup though. I wonder how I can gain more kinetic enregy with out cranking up the poundage too much more and lightening my arrow to much. I am going on an elk hunt this fall.

Z7 60-70lbs. 28"dl. 64lbs.
Radical peep sight and string loop.
Goldtip Xt Hunter 5575, 27" long.
Arrows weigh 367gr. w/100gr. fieldtip.
FPS on 2 different chronos is 286 and 289fps.
That equates to 67-68lbs. of energy.

I was hoping to be in the 70lbs' for my upcoming elk trip.
I only bought six on the goldtips knowing I would need some more before my trip. I really like the looks of the Easton FMJ.

What can I do to this to gernetae a few more lbs. of energy?

 

[BigPig]

LAST EDITED ON Jan-20-10 AT 12:00PM (MST)[p]

Switch to 125 gr broadheads. That may require a change to 7595 GT arrows too. You could then add a couple inches of arrow length that way also. Perhaps a wrap too. You'd still be spined right and would have more weight. Do not go any lighter with your arrow. I would argue that you are already too light. With a little tweaking you should be able to get to about 420grs. You have a quieter shot and a much more effective elk arrow.

Or yes, you could switch to an overall heavier shaft like the FMJ too.

 

[c3]

You can't really change the KE of a bow without changing the draw weight. It is what it is. The difference between 6 grains per pound and 8 grains per pound will make very little if any difference measurable KE. The difference between my FMJ's and ST Epics that are 40 grains ligher is 0.11 ft/lbs of KE. It just doesn't matter in the relm of arrow weights that are common these days.

Find a lighter peep without tubing. Use thread nock points inside your d-loop instead of a brass one. Go to a lighter 8125 string. Take the string dampeners off the string. Shorten the center serving. These are the only things that you can do to increase the speed without increasing poundage for a given arrow weight.

In the end of the day your setup at 64 lbs will be way more than enough. Keep your poundage lighter and perfect your game. Getting it into the boiler room after a 2 hour wait in the rain and snow when you are freezing to death is much more important than some crazy number that is 10 ft/lbs above any semblance of need when it comes to killing an elk.

Just my $0.02

Cheers,
Pete

 

[ALPHAMAXSTER]

I would strongly recommend the FMJ's. I also agree about getting your arrow to about 420 grains. Over the summer you might even squeak another pound or two on your draw weight. If you do just a half turn every now and then you wont hardly notice. Regardless, Even with the speed vs. weight and what your Ke is coming off the string a heavier arrow is better than a fast arrow, it will carry the energy farther. Think of it as if someone stood at 20 yds from you and threw a ping pong ball at you and then threw a golf ball. Just my opinion, hope it helps

 

[cantclosethedeal]

If you don't already own the Archery Advantage software. . . . drop the 30 bucks and download it now! Guessing arrow spine and FOC off an arrow chart is mediocre at best. On the chart, 5575 at 64lbs is dead on. Pushing 290 fps, you will find you are somewhat underspined. Once you have your bow dialed in, you can search and toy with different arrow weights and configurations and get you FOC, KE, and FPS before you spend $2-300 on arrows, broadheads, wraps, etc.
You can also go to Utah Archery Center, Wild Arrow, or Hunphrys on a weekday and play with combos there. If they have the time, they will take care of you.

 

[Boskee]

LAST EDITED ON Jan-22-10 AT 08:15AM (MST)[p]
What you have is sufficient and fast enough to kill any elk. If you want a stronger arrow or heavier broadhead then shoot one and it will help. But the KE thing is way over rated hype to sell bows. Think about this it wasn't even mentioned in any ad by any manufacturer 10-15 years ago or before so why all the attention today? The elk killed back then were just as dead as the ones we kill today and nobody discussed KE back then. It has it's place for dangerous game but on thin skinned animals it's been marketed to make you think you need somethning when in reality what you have has worked for decades. My wife has a 24 1/2 " draw and shoots 50 lbs and has shot completely thru 3 bulls with that set up and all were 1 shot kills. C3 is right on the money with his post.

 

[7]

I wouldn't change anything what you have is already good elk medicine. Concentrate more on your shooting skills such as shooting from your knees after you've been running.

7 Mag