Just looking for any suggestions for me, I have a Winchester mod 70 super shadow in a 300 wsm. I am on my second scope (in 4 years) I have taken my current sightron scope off twice and made sure all is tight, I have shot 4 different factory loads with 150 to 180 grains, I have also shot 3 different reloads through the gun reloaded by a friend that has reloaded for me for other guns that have been great. I have many other rifles in smaller calibers that I can group very well, but for some reason I just can't get a tight group. I shoot off of bench with a lead sled, so I know I am not just nervous about recoil. I have had the trigger worked on, as I have on my other Win mod. 70s. I have never done any more work on my factory bought rifles, and never had this problem. Does anybody have any good advise or thoughts for me? Thanks a bunch for any help Chad
No tight groups with my Win mod 70 300 wsm
- Thread starter snakeoil
- Start date
R
redrabbit
Guest
Does it have a fore-end pressure point you can remove?
Might consider having it recrowned.
Might consider having it recrowned.
H
huntindude
Guest
What are you calling a tight group? newer M 70's aren't know for their accuracy.
redrabbit, sorry man I am wet behind the ears! I honestly don't understand a thing you said. As far as the mod 70's I have been told that they are not the most accurate, the tightest 5 shot group I honestly have got from 100 yards is about the diam. of a baseball, from comparing that with my other rifles, a couple being mod 70's I can get quarter sized groups with my 270 wsm and my 25 wssm. Does this help at all? Or do I need to find someone in my area that is allot more knowledgeable than I? Thanks a bunch guys, sorry I don't know a ton about shooting. I honestly have never had a rifle give me this much doubt when packing it. Thanks Chad
S
Spencer
Guest
Snake -
You may want to have the action bedded. I couldn't get less than 2-3" groups from my Winchester Model 70 30-06 with a full floating barrel and handloads. I paid $150 to have the action bedded and the trigger reduced to 2 1/2 lbs. I now shot .6 to 1" groups consistently at 100 yds.
The Winchester Mod 70 just isn't a tack driver unless you want to spent a good bit of money on a new barrel, pillar bedding, new trigger, etc.
Scott
Member: RMEF, SCI, and NRA
You may want to have the action bedded. I couldn't get less than 2-3" groups from my Winchester Model 70 30-06 with a full floating barrel and handloads. I paid $150 to have the action bedded and the trigger reduced to 2 1/2 lbs. I now shot .6 to 1" groups consistently at 100 yds.
The Winchester Mod 70 just isn't a tack driver unless you want to spent a good bit of money on a new barrel, pillar bedding, new trigger, etc.
Scott
Member: RMEF, SCI, and NRA
H
huntindude
Guest
I'll second that, I had to have a new Super Grade when they first came out, I tried EVERYTHING short of a new barrel to get it to shoot and 2" is as good as it got so I dumped it.
Once in a while you'll luck out and get a good one, but for the most part newer M 70's are just great actions to build a rifle on as far as I'm concerned. a crappy job of getting the chamber concentric to the bore is the biggest problem in the M 70, and pretty often the reason other factory rifles and even crumby customs won't shoot. a new barrel is the only cure.
Once in a while you'll luck out and get a good one, but for the most part newer M 70's are just great actions to build a rifle on as far as I'm concerned. a crappy job of getting the chamber concentric to the bore is the biggest problem in the M 70, and pretty often the reason other factory rifles and even crumby customs won't shoot. a new barrel is the only cure.
sageadvice
Long Time Member
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- 11,849
Guys, i'm kinda surprised by this thread. I've always been a Remington man myself but i bought this 4 or 5 year old stainless model 70 controled feed in 270 WSM and couldn't be more pleased. i'll admitt, i bought it from one i consider to be a shootest. He does all his own work and probably did some things to this gun but as it is, i'm getting -1/2 to 3/4" groups, with factory ammo!. I really love the super smooth short action bolt throw, i'm sold on this gun, actually like it better than my Remingtons.
Chad, don't give up bud. Could be any number of things. If you know a good smithy you can trust or one of your friends does, might be time for a visit to the doc.
Joey
Chad, don't give up bud. Could be any number of things. If you know a good smithy you can trust or one of your friends does, might be time for a visit to the doc.
Joey
R
redrabbit
Guest
LAST EDITED ON Nov-13-08 AT 09:37AM (MST)[p]Chad,
You might take it to a gunsmith and have him adjust the trigger, bed the action, and recrown the barrel. Thinking $150-200 for the work. The bedding job will be the most expensive part.
The foreend pressure point is on the end of the stock forearm and exerts some upward pressure on the barrel. When apart, you should see a slight hump or ridge in the stock's foreend channel if there is a pressure point. You can test with a dollar bill or business card and see if you have any barrel to stock contact when you slide the card down the length between the stock and barrel.
The crown at the end of the barrel may have a nick at the edge of the bore, or may not be concentric/perpendicular to the bore.
Recrowning might cost $30-40.
RR
You might take it to a gunsmith and have him adjust the trigger, bed the action, and recrown the barrel. Thinking $150-200 for the work. The bedding job will be the most expensive part.
The foreend pressure point is on the end of the stock forearm and exerts some upward pressure on the barrel. When apart, you should see a slight hump or ridge in the stock's foreend channel if there is a pressure point. You can test with a dollar bill or business card and see if you have any barrel to stock contact when you slide the card down the length between the stock and barrel.
The crown at the end of the barrel may have a nick at the edge of the bore, or may not be concentric/perpendicular to the bore.
Recrowning might cost $30-40.
RR
Thanks a bunch all for the help, I talked to a gunsmith this morning, and am going to take the gun over to him today. I will cross my fingers! I love the weight and lack of recoil on the gun, hopefully I can get it to shoot good enough I can justify keeping it? Thanks again all Chad
RELH
Long Time Member
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- 17,483
Chad;
You are one of the smart ones that we love to give advice to and try to help out. To many times in the past, I or other members on this forum have given advice to take it to a gunsmith and we get back that they were looking for a free fix or dirt cheap fix that may not work on all occasions.
If you spend 200 bucks and get back a rifle that will shoot great groups, You end up with a rifle that you feel confidence in since it also fits your requirements for weight and lack of felt recoil. It will be a rifle that you will keep for many years and take on many hunts. Small investiment over the span of time it will be with you. Also alot darn cheaper then putting out several thousand for a custom rifle.
Good luck and many future hunts.
RELH
You are one of the smart ones that we love to give advice to and try to help out. To many times in the past, I or other members on this forum have given advice to take it to a gunsmith and we get back that they were looking for a free fix or dirt cheap fix that may not work on all occasions.
If you spend 200 bucks and get back a rifle that will shoot great groups, You end up with a rifle that you feel confidence in since it also fits your requirements for weight and lack of felt recoil. It will be a rifle that you will keep for many years and take on many hunts. Small investiment over the span of time it will be with you. Also alot darn cheaper then putting out several thousand for a custom rifle.
Good luck and many future hunts.
RELH
C
Coach Hunt
Guest
Howdy,
I want to advise you on one trick before you take it to the
gunsmith! Drop the floor plate, unscrew the front trigger guard screw... the one right in front of the trigger, and tighten it up again using only the bit from a screw driver and TWO FINGERS... your thumb and forefinger. NO TIGHTER THAN THAT!!! Don't worry, it won't fall out.
I had the same problem due to my club handed tightening of all three action screws. It wouldn't shoot five shots into a coffee can at 150 yards. Now it will put three or four shots into a half inch when I do my part.
Hope this helps!!!
Let us know the final outcoome.
Regards....
Coach
I want to advise you on one trick before you take it to the
gunsmith! Drop the floor plate, unscrew the front trigger guard screw... the one right in front of the trigger, and tighten it up again using only the bit from a screw driver and TWO FINGERS... your thumb and forefinger. NO TIGHTER THAN THAT!!! Don't worry, it won't fall out.
I had the same problem due to my club handed tightening of all three action screws. It wouldn't shoot five shots into a coffee can at 150 yards. Now it will put three or four shots into a half inch when I do my part.
Hope this helps!!!
Let us know the final outcoome.
Regards....
Coach
RELH
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 17,483
Coach is right on that advice about the middle screw located between the magazine and trigger guard. It should only be snugged up and the front & back guard screws need to be firmly seated.
If your middle screw is very tight, that can cause your accuracy problem due to stress tension, or binding, on the center of the receiver.
RELH
If your middle screw is very tight, that can cause your accuracy problem due to stress tension, or binding, on the center of the receiver.
RELH
FullCurlHunter
Active Member
- Messages
- 171
I would keep an eye on that middle screw however if you decide to only finger tighten it. I have had action screws back out on me and cause quite a bit of accuracy headaches before I found that the screw had lossened. These were torqued on, not finger tightened...
Otherwise Chad, there are so many details and so many quick fixes. I would recommend reading some other posts on this website to become educated as to various accurizing procedures for both the do it yourselfer and the gunsmith.
Otherwise Chad, there are so many details and so many quick fixes. I would recommend reading some other posts on this website to become educated as to various accurizing procedures for both the do it yourselfer and the gunsmith.
Well I called the gunsmith before I was leaving for Thanksgiving, he still had not got to working on it. I went and picked it up anyways because I wanted to try the screw thing. Anyways I did like you guys said and loosened it, it was VERY tight, and then re tightened it with very little force. It was like shooting a different gun!!! It shot 10 times better! I am still going to have it bedded, but I can say I feel much better now. Thanks again ALL. Chad
C
Coach Hunt
Guest
Howdy,
Good for you!!!! Congrats. I forgot to mention that I also use blue Loktite on that screw only! Sorry.
Hope this cures your accuracy woes for good!!!
Good shooting.
Coach
Good for you!!!! Congrats. I forgot to mention that I also use blue Loktite on that screw only! Sorry.
Hope this cures your accuracy woes for good!!!
Good shooting.
Coach
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