Problems with consistant ignition in side hammer muzzleloaders

[hotdiggity]

I've got a 54 cal Lyman Great Plains hunter that has been giving me fits. I can't get the thing to consistantly shoot despite maintain a fairly consitant cleaning and loading regime. I've got a hot shot nipple on it and I just bought magnum caps.

My question is for those of you who still use somewhat primitive weapons; How do you go about loading and cleaning before every shot?

Also what loads would you recommend? Currently I am using 100 grains of 777 FFg powder and 405 powerbelts. I've got decent grouping but I am looking for other loads to try out.

Thanks and have a good one,
Joe

 

[mevertsen]

Try some other powder, like regular Pyrodex RS. I have heard T7 is not the best in sidelocks. I shoot a CVA Bobcat with Pyrodex RS, and have no problems with ignition. I hit the same every time, (or close to it anyway). One thing also, on the cleaning side anyway, is to do the same every time. If you run the spit patch down the bore all the way down and then immediately back up, only do that after subsequent shots. While shooting for groups, I will shoot my load, run one spit patch down, immediately back up, and that is it, between each shot, nothing different. No stopping half way, maybe just a little extra "scrub" at the bottom, always the same. Consistensy is the key, ALL AROUND. I was having problems when I first got mine, but with experience have gotten most of the bugs worked out.

Also, before a shooting session, and before loading my hunting load, I will shoot 3 caps. Again, if you do 2, do 2 every time, if you do 5 do five every time.

 

[TripleSe7en]

If the new caps don't help

Switch to FFF powders

Use less liquid for swabbing. What works best is a small spray bottle that shoots a wide misty spray. Swab after every 2nd shot.

Pour the powder down the muzzle slowly with the muzzle straight up. then grab the muzzle with your hand & shake it firmly sideways left & right 3-4 times. This makes sure enough powder travels under the nipple.

After cleaning the bore around 75%, water-flush the bore by removing the nipple - then put a funnel over the muzzle & pour a quart of water down it about as fast as the funnel will take it. Another method is a ramrod/jag/patch flush with the nipple-end in a bucket half-filled with soapy water. Then dry swab immediately to inhibit flash-rusting.

Also... make sure you are firing three caps before loading the first bullet. Some folks store their muzzleloaders muzzle-down so the oil doesn't penetrate the nipple. Some folks don't install the nipple until they get to the range.

One last problem you may have is moisture-contaminated powder. Keep it dry & don't take an entire jug to the range to shoot 20 shots. High humidity can damage that powder -- even without any rain. Same goes with damp basements.

Hope all this helps.






............."Keep Yer' Powder Dry Fellas".............

 

[dleonard3]

I think that your Lyman Great Plains rifle has a slow twist barrel and is more suited to patched round balls. If you shoot conicals, The slow twist might not properly stabilize the bullet and you will most likely get inconsistent accuracy. I've always wanted to get a Lyman Great Plains flintlock so I can experience a truely "primitive" muzzle loader. If I ever get one, I will only shoot grease patched round balls and black powder. Hopefully it will shoot tight groups that I can rely on. If not, I won't even consider hunting with it.

 

[hotdiggity]

I finally found a method that works. Use a patch soaked in isopropyl alcohol, clean the barrel with both sides. Run two dry patches down it. Fire off three caps and pick the nipple like crazy. Use fffg powder, shake it like crazy and knock the butt on the ground after pouring it down the barrel. Don't push the powder down with the ram rod, put the bullet in a push it down as hard as I can. So far it has fired on the first pull of the trigger the last 10 times. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[DallanC]

>I finally found a method that
>works. Use a patch
>soaked in isopropyl alcohol, clean
>the barrel with both sides.
> Run two dry patches
>down it. Fire off
>three caps and pick the
>nipple like crazy. Use
>fffg powder, shake it like
>crazy and knock the butt
>on the ground after pouring
>it down the barrel.
>Don't push the powder down
>with the ram rod, put
>the bullet in a push
>it down as hard as
>I can. So far
>it has fired on the
>first pull of the trigger
>the last 10 times.
>Thanks for the advice guys.

I use *slightly* damp patches wet with windex. It evaporates really fast even in cold weather. You want it only slightly damp as you do not want to "Squeeze" any fluid out of the patch that will then run in the flash hole. I also try not to run the rod all the way to the bottom of the barrel, we are only trying to knock the crud of the barrel walls and riflings.

Next remove the old spent cap BEFORE you try and reload. ##### the hammer at halfcock. Next add your powder. Finally add your projectile but when seating it, try to push it down in a single quick stroke. What this will do is force the air that is now between the powder at the projectile at the mouth of the barrel, out through the flame hole. As this air is exiting it will pull powder along with it, up under the nipple where the cap can later ignite.

If I am prepping a rifle for the next days hunt at home, I always carefully pull off the nipple from a loaded gun and double check the powder under the nipple and is dry / ready to go, then replace.


-DallanC