Too much poundage?

bigbull1 · Jul 7, 2008

I read that Randy Ulmer suggests if you cannot draw your bow holding it in a normai extended shooting positon, the draw weight is to high.

My question is how easy should it be, and what is enough KE to kill muleys and bulls.

My daughter wants a bow and can almost draw my 65lb Martin. Should it be easy for her, somewhat hard, or what is just right?

Ed

www.huntpacks.com

Coloradoboy · Jul 7, 2008

I would get a bow in the 50-55 pound range probably if she can almost draw 65. The i determine if the draw weight is correct is if someone can sit on the floor with their legs crossed and draw the bow comfortably. Basically you want to be able to draw the bow without turning your head or lifting the bow up or down to draw it.

nezzy · Jul 7, 2008

Some people say that you should be able to hold full draw for 10 seconds on your target and then release. I just got off the phone with the guy at our archery shop because I had the same qestion. I'm thinking of dropping my poundage to 62-64, from 70 lbs. I two would like some thoughts and feedback.

muleymaniac81 · Jul 7, 2008

I've always used Coloradoboy's method to determine if a person's overbowed. For me, that was the test because I bowhunted turkeys in the days before the nice blinds, and you had to draw as smoothly and slowly as possible to keep from getting busted. I still think that's the way to go. I also like to be able to draw slow enough that it takes about 10 seconds to reach my anchor and then be able to hold there for at least 30-45 seconds without discernable shaking. Just my opinion, and I'm by no means an expert.

backinthegame · Jul 8, 2008

My opinion is that most archers I see try and shoot too much poundage. You should be able to draw your bow COMFORTABLY and WITHOUT EXCESS MOTION. The excess motion thing is a big tip-off to guys (or girls) who are trying to pull too much weight. If you've got to wave your bow all aroung while struggling to pull it...back it off a bit. Another thing to keep in mind is that while you might be able to pull it "pretty easily" in your backyard after warming up in nice weather, those bows have a nasty tendency to become a hell of a lot tougher to pull when you've got a big buck in front of you and it's freezing cold. I think guys push the limits on draw weight in order to pick up speed, since nowadays that's the craze. Well, speed is nice, don't get me wrong, but that extra 5-10 fps isn't going to make a bit of difference if you can't get drawn on an animal because it looks like you're bringing an airplane in for a landing when you try to draw your bow!!!

marley · Jul 8, 2008

This is one of my pet peeves for some reason. I can't stand watching someone just about crap their pants to get it back. I have always used the same type of rule as above. I sit on a chair and if I can draw it without tensing up my legs, I'm right on. You don't need 180 lb draw to kill an animal. Mine is set at 62 lbs and I have never kept an arrow in an animal, always blows right through.

pushin_30 · Jul 9, 2008

Having your draw weight so you can draw with as little movement as possible is what I set mine at 68 lbs. To many times have i had an animal turn its head mid draw, so I would recommend having your draw weight at a comfortable weight to draw. As far as KE, when i started hunting a started with a 45 lb hoyt raider, the first animal i took was a cow elk and at 30 yards see didn't even make it 10 steps. It is all about shot placement. Just my 2 cents.

predator · Jul 14, 2008

So this brings up a question I have- If I currently can comfortably draw 45, should I be cranking it up a 1/4 turn a week to increase KE? I know that means I might have to adjust the pins as well, and gosh right now, I'm shooting really well

So I'm tempted to leave well enough alone.....

BOHNTR · Jul 15, 2008

Lisa:

Shoot the weight that's comfortable for you AND that you can shoot accurately. My wife and son have arrowed quite a few critters using a bit less weight than what you are currently shooting (43 pounds). Arrow placement is the key along with quality (close) shots.

Heck, when I started out years back I was flipping wood arrows from a 43 pound longbow that shot "maybe" 170 fps......got complete pass-through on every deer I arrowed with that sweet beauty of a bow. Speed is over-rated (KE), IMO......momentum plays a huge factor in penetration as well. Good luck and post some photos up when you let the air out of one.

BOHNTR )))---------->

bigbull1 · Jul 15, 2008

Good information, thanks for all the responses. We will get to the archery shop and find something that she can pull and hold fairly easy. I am thinking somewhere in the 45-50lb range.

Ed

www.huntpacks.com

predator · Jul 15, 2008

Thanks Roy, I should have just asked the stickflipper expert I sadly admit I FORGOT was on here....DOH!

I do hope I can ventilate a nice big bull......I'm already freaking out about it!

rifle666 · Jul 15, 2008

another test is draw it as you would be hunting. IE if in a tree stand, do it in a stand, or sitting/ kneeling down.

i have watched many shooter who could not even draw their bows from stands or sitting.

it makes a huge difference in what muscles you use.

3fletch · Jul 18, 2008

The best way I have found is to balance on one leg and draw you bow without loosing your balance. I saw an episode on TV where someone suggested you stand on a teeter totter and draw it without loosing your balance. I am of the opinion that you should shoot as much weight as you can pull easily. It is unethical to shoot more than you can handle or too little..

Aim small miss small!!!!!