califhuntn
Active Member
- Messages
- 791
What broadhead do you guys use that flies as close to a field tip? I am hoping to find a fixed three blade broadhead.
JR
JR
What broadhead flys like a field tip
- Thread starter califhuntn
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ChubbyTuna
Active Member
- Messages
- 324
My slick tricks are dead on with my FP out to 60 yds. My tricks used to hit low left of my FP. I retuned my bow and realized my cams were out of sync by 1/4 inch. Couple twists of the cable and daed on.
I don't believe all broadheads fly well with a perfectly tuned bow. As far as broadheads I've shot and have had spot on accuracy with are as follows.
1. Magnus Stinger (four blade)
2. G5 Striker
3. Wac'ems
4. Muzzy 3 blade
I always end-up going back to the 4 blade stinger though.
1. Magnus Stinger (four blade)
2. G5 Striker
3. Wac'ems
4. Muzzy 3 blade
I always end-up going back to the 4 blade stinger though.
never_catch
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 4,683
3 blade fix blade...G5 Montec or Striker would be my top 2 picks...
~Z~
~Z~
B
BOW_N_ARROW
Guest
Wac'ems are the only fixed blades I've shot and they shoot great.
JB
JB
P
PullShootExplode
Guest
shuttle t's are spot on with my setup. I have also had great consistancy(sp)with wac'em 3 and 4 blades.
BGbasbhat
Very Active Member
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- 1,095
+1 to BigPig, as usual!!
I just shot my new Magnus Buzzcuts yesterday to make sure they were flying right. My first 3 shots were low and right...wtf?!?!?! Then, I really concentrated on my release and not grabbing after the release. I put the next 6 dead nuts.
Fixed blades will only magnify the flaws in either your bow or your form. Fix your form or your bow, and all the top brands will fly like field points. Guaranteed.
"...I'd rather be tried by twelve than carried by six..."
I just shot my new Magnus Buzzcuts yesterday to make sure they were flying right. My first 3 shots were low and right...wtf?!?!?! Then, I really concentrated on my release and not grabbing after the release. I put the next 6 dead nuts.
Fixed blades will only magnify the flaws in either your bow or your form. Fix your form or your bow, and all the top brands will fly like field points. Guaranteed.
"...I'd rather be tried by twelve than carried by six..."
B
bearman
Guest
LAST EDITED ON Jul-27-09 AT 09:48AM (MST)[p]I shot 12 different types last year in a test of what ones grouped the best and shot closest to my field points. The top two was #1 Wac'em and #2 was G5. Those were the best by far. Not that all out there aren't good these just did best out of my bow. Until that I have shot Thunder head and muzzy for twenty years. They work great I just have to tune my bow for them and move my sight. I took my deer last year with Wac'em. It did great.
B
bckcntrybuck
Guest
g5 strikers, Rocky Mountain Blitz, EPEK, nitrons, and many many more. tuned bow and good form will help a ton. There are so many broadheads out there its just a matter of trial and error. have fun.
Hey,
I have been shooting muzzy 3 blades for years and have had to resight my bow whenever I went from field points to the broadheads. I thought that is just the way it was. I considered swithching heads because I've heard of points and heads grouping together with other heads, but I really like the practice blades that you can buy for the muzzys that prolong your target a Lot and are much easier to remove. So anyway, I thought this was the way it is until I read the "muzzy question" post this weekend. Some knowlegdeable members kept saying that a bow needs to be tuned for broadheads because the blades intensify the way the arrow reacts to changes in sights. I read the "broadhead tunning guides" they have listed and went to shoot my bow. My muzzys alway shot a little low and a bit left, but with a minute 1/16 inch adjustment in my rest and even less on my knocking point, my points and head were grouping together.
Thanks to the members that helped and the one who posted the question. It will save me time and hassel forever: Chris
I have been shooting muzzy 3 blades for years and have had to resight my bow whenever I went from field points to the broadheads. I thought that is just the way it was. I considered swithching heads because I've heard of points and heads grouping together with other heads, but I really like the practice blades that you can buy for the muzzys that prolong your target a Lot and are much easier to remove. So anyway, I thought this was the way it is until I read the "muzzy question" post this weekend. Some knowlegdeable members kept saying that a bow needs to be tuned for broadheads because the blades intensify the way the arrow reacts to changes in sights. I read the "broadhead tunning guides" they have listed and went to shoot my bow. My muzzys alway shot a little low and a bit left, but with a minute 1/16 inch adjustment in my rest and even less on my knocking point, my points and head were grouping together.
Thanks to the members that helped and the one who posted the question. It will save me time and hassel forever: Chris
G
GTR
Guest
try a muzzey
S
saltlakearcher
Guest
It is not a fixed blade, but I have seen and heard great things about the new Epek XC-3. A friend of mine was hesitant to try a mechanical but told me today he got some of the 100 grain Epeks and they flew exactly like a field tip. He even admitted that he is probably going to buy another pack of them. You may want to give them a try. You can now buy them online from utaharcherycenter.net
Good luck!
Good luck!
LAST EDITED ON Jul-28-09 AT 08:33AM (MST)[p]>Hey,
> I have been shooting
>muzzy 3 blades for years
>and have had to resight
>my bow whenever I went
>from field points to the
>broadheads. I thought that
>is just the way it
>was. I considered swithching heads
>because I've heard of points
>and heads grouping together with
>other heads, but I really
>like the practice blades that
>you can buy for the
>muzzys that prolong your target
>a Lot and are much
>easier to remove. So
>anyway, I thought this was
>the way it is until
>I read the "muzzy question"
>post this weekend. Some
>knowlegdeable members kept saying that
>a bow needs to be
>tuned for broadheads because the
>blades intensify the way the
>arrow reacts to changes in
>sights. I read the
>"broadhead tunning guides" they have
>listed and went to shoot
>my bow. My muzzys
>alway shot a little low
>and a bit left, but
>with a minute 1/16 inch
>adjustment in my rest and
>even less on my knocking
>point, my points and head
>were grouping together.
>
> Thanks to the members
>that helped and the one
>who posted the question.
>It will save me time
>and hassel forever: Chris
BINGO! Fine job sir. Realize too that moving your rest up or down a bit can have the same effect (in opposite directions of course)as reaising or lowering your nock point and is usually easier.
> I have been shooting
>muzzy 3 blades for years
>and have had to resight
>my bow whenever I went
>from field points to the
>broadheads. I thought that
>is just the way it
>was. I considered swithching heads
>because I've heard of points
>and heads grouping together with
>other heads, but I really
>like the practice blades that
>you can buy for the
>muzzys that prolong your target
>a Lot and are much
>easier to remove. So
>anyway, I thought this was
>the way it is until
>I read the "muzzy question"
>post this weekend. Some
>knowlegdeable members kept saying that
>a bow needs to be
>tuned for broadheads because the
>blades intensify the way the
>arrow reacts to changes in
>sights. I read the
>"broadhead tunning guides" they have
>listed and went to shoot
>my bow. My muzzys
>alway shot a little low
>and a bit left, but
>with a minute 1/16 inch
>adjustment in my rest and
>even less on my knocking
>point, my points and head
>were grouping together.
>
> Thanks to the members
>that helped and the one
>who posted the question.
>It will save me time
>and hassel forever: Chris
BINGO! Fine job sir. Realize too that moving your rest up or down a bit can have the same effect (in opposite directions of course)as reaising or lowering your nock point and is usually easier.
H
hollysdad
Guest
the only fixed blade broadhead that I've been able to shoot with field point accurancy is the muzzy 3 blade.
B
Brandon82
Guest
Muzzy MX3's and G56 Strikers. Shot both this morning on tuned bows. The flight path is nearly identical out to 40yrds. Once shooting at 50 you have about a 4" drop.
ARCHERYBUG
Active Member
- Messages
- 346
Howard Hill !!!!
M
mathewsman
Guest
Grim reapers.
W
wacmaster
Guest
Epek xc-3 is the ticket allready have 2 kill's this year my bear went 20 yrd's and the pig went 10. huge wound channel speak's for itself. Can't wait to smoke a deer with em. 3 inch plus exit hole hellen keller could follow the blood trail.
fatrooster
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 4,192
I switched from the Crossfire from Nap to the Strikers and I'm pretty happy with my choice. They fly like my broadheads and the blades are replaceable. fatrooster.
califhuntn
Active Member
- Messages
- 791
Some of you guys really have great knowledge and I appreciate the advice. I was one the those guys that thought that the adjustments needed to correct the broadhead issue was to adjust my sights. I figured out that adjusting the rest can do wonders.
My question to BigPig or anyone else that can help me here is how exactly do I make adjustment to my knocking point? Are you actually talking about adjusting the the knocking loop up/down?
JR
My question to BigPig or anyone else that can help me here is how exactly do I make adjustment to my knocking point? Are you actually talking about adjusting the the knocking loop up/down?
JR
W
wacmaster
Guest
Yes but first shoot thru paper and tell us what kind of a tear you get. Hopefully it's straight up or down.
Well I shoot a Muzzy 3 blade 100 Gr. Last year I sighted in with field tips and felt pretty good however I did not shoot a broadhead during practice. I did most of my shooting at the local archery ranges.
This year I bought a broadhead target from Cabelas. I was surprised at what a difference there was between the field tips and the broadheads. At 20 yards I had a 6 inch drop and had to re-adjust my sights. Once that change was made they shoot consistant and I have had no problems.
I would highly recomend practicing with the broadhead of your chioce. just imagine how far off a 45 or 50 yard shot would have been had I not practiced before hand.
BTW I had zero shots last year at game. Looking to change that this year.
This year I bought a broadhead target from Cabelas. I was surprised at what a difference there was between the field tips and the broadheads. At 20 yards I had a 6 inch drop and had to re-adjust my sights. Once that change was made they shoot consistant and I have had no problems.
I would highly recomend practicing with the broadhead of your chioce. just imagine how far off a 45 or 50 yard shot would have been had I not practiced before hand.
BTW I had zero shots last year at game. Looking to change that this year.
As long as your arrow (with the rest up)is passing through the Berger hole (the hole where your rest screws in) it is much easier to make verticle adjustments with the rest. Moving your string loop up and down is not real practical. Moving your rest down is the same as raising your knocking point up, and vice versa.
rugarm77, your bow is not tuned properly. Read above (and other posts) a tuned bow should shoot the broadheads at the same point as field tips. Adjusting the sights is not a good fix. Tuning is. You will have better arrow flight, more penetration and will be able to practice with field tips and hunt with broadheads without adjustment.
M
MonteMontana
Guest
Shuttle T Locks or Slick Tricks are the best Period!
califhuntn
Active Member
- Messages
- 791
BigPig thanks for the information. After writing my question about moving the string loop I realized that probably moving the rest up/down would make more sense.
But back to my original question I have found that G5's fly a lot closer to my field tips then do my Muzzy 3 blades.
JR
But back to my original question I have found that G5's fly a lot closer to my field tips then do my Muzzy 3 blades.
JR
The smaller, more compact heads like the g5 Striker, slick trick, wac'em, ultimate steel, nitron, etc. will carch less wind are definitely more forgiving. More forgiving of a slightly incorrect tune and more forgiving of form flaws. But they still should not be used to cover up a bad tune, IMO. I like to tune my bow the best I can, then I like to use a forgiving broadhead on top of that. Rarely is form perfect in the heat of the moment. Sometimes, I'll even screw on a big Muzzy or Thunderhead just to verify my tune is right on at the practice range, then I'll go back to using a Striker, Montec or Slick Trick in the field.
c3
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 2,119
Big, I just can't take anymore of this 
You make it sound so simple like it's all in the archer and the tuning. I'm just not a buyer that all setups or even many setups can be made to efficiently and forgivingly shoot both field points and fixed blades to the same point over all distances. I believe you can get it close, but not 4" groups from 5 to 60 yards.
Many bows on the market today have horrific nock travel and simply will never put a fixed blade and field point in the same place. Just ask the guys at Spott Hogg who make the Hooter shooter, or go see Lloyd Brown down your way who has every conceivable setup on high speed video from the Vegas shoot over the last 4 or 5 years.
Having bowhunted for over 25 years and having been around the world shooting tournament, I know a little bit about tuning and what you are saying is a bit misleading. Everyone should know that there are precious few setups that truly shoot both heads to the same place at all distances.
Big, we'll have to get together some day and do a little testing followed by a little discussion session over a cold one I'm sure we could have a heck of a time testing all these theories out in person
Cheers,
Pete
You make it sound so simple like it's all in the archer and the tuning. I'm just not a buyer that all setups or even many setups can be made to efficiently and forgivingly shoot both field points and fixed blades to the same point over all distances. I believe you can get it close, but not 4" groups from 5 to 60 yards.
Many bows on the market today have horrific nock travel and simply will never put a fixed blade and field point in the same place. Just ask the guys at Spott Hogg who make the Hooter shooter, or go see Lloyd Brown down your way who has every conceivable setup on high speed video from the Vegas shoot over the last 4 or 5 years.
Having bowhunted for over 25 years and having been around the world shooting tournament, I know a little bit about tuning and what you are saying is a bit misleading. Everyone should know that there are precious few setups that truly shoot both heads to the same place at all distances.
Big, we'll have to get together some day and do a little testing followed by a little discussion session over a cold one
I'm sure we could have a heck of a time testing all these theories out in person Cheers,
Pete
LAST EDITED ON Aug-07-09 AT 10:13AM (MST)[p]
c3, lets do it;-) I love coldies! You are right, not all setups will tune perfectly. Some will easily, some will with a little tinkering, some will with major surgery, and some never will. I can accept the first two situations, bows in the last two categories get ditched.
I have a Mathews Switchback that I'll never get rid of. It tunes like a dream without much effort. Provided I do my part it will shoot any head I screw on there right with field points. A bow has to be tuned PERFECTLY to do this in my experience. Now I have a Bowtech Captain that is almost as good, but the one I had previous to this one was a total lemon and would not tune at all. I sent it back and got a new one. My bro's Drenalin will tune close enough but not quite perfect. I am confident I could get it there but close enough is good enough for him. My buddy's Drenalin LD will also shoot any head perfectly, but it took a lot of fine tuning to get it there. His Hoyt Ultratech never would tune for him, but I could shoot it perfectly. Another buddy's Bowtech Tribute will shoot broadheads perfect with no tuning at all, just centershot. I've also had a PSE, so has my brother, that would never tune right. Those didn't last long.
My point is that it runs the gamut. There are so many variances with bows and with the shooter's form. Some tune easily, some will tune but take some effort and some won't tune at all. The fact of the matter is that in my experience MOST of today's high end bows will get there if you are willing to go through the headaches of getting everything set absoultely right. It may take a lot of work setting ATA, brace height, timing, tiller, cam/idler lean, paper tuning, walkback tuning, and of course broadhead tuning. Most shops won't take the time required to achieve tuning perfection so its a good idea to learn yourself if perfection is what you expect. I'm a perfectionist to a fault with my archery equipment and I never could get a shop to put forth the attention to detail I wanted so the only solution for me was to learn to do it myself.
I don't mind the effort, but I won't tolerate a bow that won't tune at all. I'm not afraid to unload one that wont cooperate.
I probably did oversimplify, but I still think knowing the basics of bow tuning and how to get a bow to shoot broaheads and field points together (at least in theory) is a good excercise and something most bowhunters would benefit from learning. You may not be able to acheive Hooter Shooter, same hole, kind of perfection, but certainly accuracy that is more than acceptable in hunting situations. You shouldn't have to move your sight anyway.
As a sidebar, speed can be an issue too. With today's speed bows and the light arrows that are popular, getting the same flight out of field tips and broadheads can be more difficult. Bump that arrow weight up to keep speed at 280-290 and below and you will have an easier time tuning.
Is it happy hour yet?
c3, lets do it;-) I love coldies! You are right, not all setups will tune perfectly. Some will easily, some will with a little tinkering, some will with major surgery, and some never will. I can accept the first two situations, bows in the last two categories get ditched.
I have a Mathews Switchback that I'll never get rid of. It tunes like a dream without much effort. Provided I do my part it will shoot any head I screw on there right with field points. A bow has to be tuned PERFECTLY to do this in my experience. Now I have a Bowtech Captain that is almost as good, but the one I had previous to this one was a total lemon and would not tune at all. I sent it back and got a new one. My bro's Drenalin will tune close enough but not quite perfect. I am confident I could get it there but close enough is good enough for him. My buddy's Drenalin LD will also shoot any head perfectly, but it took a lot of fine tuning to get it there. His Hoyt Ultratech never would tune for him, but I could shoot it perfectly. Another buddy's Bowtech Tribute will shoot broadheads perfect with no tuning at all, just centershot. I've also had a PSE, so has my brother, that would never tune right. Those didn't last long.
My point is that it runs the gamut. There are so many variances with bows and with the shooter's form. Some tune easily, some will tune but take some effort and some won't tune at all. The fact of the matter is that in my experience MOST of today's high end bows will get there if you are willing to go through the headaches of getting everything set absoultely right. It may take a lot of work setting ATA, brace height, timing, tiller, cam/idler lean, paper tuning, walkback tuning, and of course broadhead tuning. Most shops won't take the time required to achieve tuning perfection so its a good idea to learn yourself if perfection is what you expect. I'm a perfectionist to a fault with my archery equipment and I never could get a shop to put forth the attention to detail I wanted so the only solution for me was to learn to do it myself.
I don't mind the effort, but I won't tolerate a bow that won't tune at all. I'm not afraid to unload one that wont cooperate.
I probably did oversimplify, but I still think knowing the basics of bow tuning and how to get a bow to shoot broaheads and field points together (at least in theory) is a good excercise and something most bowhunters would benefit from learning. You may not be able to acheive Hooter Shooter, same hole, kind of perfection, but certainly accuracy that is more than acceptable in hunting situations. You shouldn't have to move your sight anyway.
As a sidebar, speed can be an issue too. With today's speed bows and the light arrows that are popular, getting the same flight out of field tips and broadheads can be more difficult. Bump that arrow weight up to keep speed at 280-290 and below and you will have an easier time tuning.
Is it happy hour yet?
I personally like the muzzy 3 blade...I have shot them for years. I used to shoot the cabelas lazer pro mags and they fly great but the blades strip out on contact. I hated the Crimson talons they shot like daggers and the only thing I hit with them was a small 4 point that just keep running until I caught up and put another one through him.
Go with muzzy or the Montec
Go with muzzy or the Montec
