paper tuning
- Thread starter ruthunter
- Start date
I agree with it as a start, but it is certainly not the be all and end all. I'll paper tune and then go to broadhead tuning. Usually after paper tuning, it takes little to no adjustment to get the broadheads hitting where they should. Once everything is grouping well and broadheads with field points, I'm a happy camper.
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swbuckmaster
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After I tune my bow back into factory specs I paper tune all the way. I have never had any broadheads fly bad doesn't matter what brand either. I have practiced with them out to 80 yards and they still group with my field tips.
I paper tune the arrows dynamic spine. The only way you can do this is with a hooter shooter or shoot bare shafts through paper. Get a bullet hole with one bare shaft and then twist the nocks a little at a time on the rest of your bare shafts until they are all getting bullet holes. You can actually see your tear move around in a circle until you get a bullet hole. If you cant you need to add more weight to the front of your arrow until you can see your tear move in a circle. Fletch them up now but don't forget to fletch them the same way you shot them. If you put the arrow in your fletch jig upside down it will be off a 180 degrees off and they will noticeably shoot outside your group.
If you don't have consistent form or you punch the trigger rent a hooter shooter for a few hours.
With a hooter shooter you shoot and arrow into the target at thirty yards and then set that arrow aside. You than use a different arrow and aim it at the same spot. If it doesn't hit the same hole twist the nock until it will hit the same hole.
This is called tuning your arrows and paper tuning is the fastest way of doing this. You want all your arrows flexing coming out of you bow the same way every time. It will shrink your groups with broadheads better then anything I know.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
I paper tune the arrows dynamic spine. The only way you can do this is with a hooter shooter or shoot bare shafts through paper. Get a bullet hole with one bare shaft and then twist the nocks a little at a time on the rest of your bare shafts until they are all getting bullet holes. You can actually see your tear move around in a circle until you get a bullet hole. If you cant you need to add more weight to the front of your arrow until you can see your tear move in a circle. Fletch them up now but don't forget to fletch them the same way you shot them. If you put the arrow in your fletch jig upside down it will be off a 180 degrees off and they will noticeably shoot outside your group.
If you don't have consistent form or you punch the trigger rent a hooter shooter for a few hours.
With a hooter shooter you shoot and arrow into the target at thirty yards and then set that arrow aside. You than use a different arrow and aim it at the same spot. If it doesn't hit the same hole twist the nock until it will hit the same hole.
This is called tuning your arrows and paper tuning is the fastest way of doing this. You want all your arrows flexing coming out of you bow the same way every time. It will shrink your groups with broadheads better then anything I know.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
Wow, sw I'm impressed. You are right, that is definitely the most thorough way to do it. I'm afraid though, that might be a bit intimidating for some archers. If you demand the utmost accuracy following the above post will surely help get you there, but very few archers shoot well enough to realize the real benefit of such precision. For the majority of hunters out there, simply buying good quality arrows that are spined and built properly, then shot through paper (fletched and shot out of the bow) will provide more than sufficient accuracy. It may require some minor rest adjustment to get a good hole and get your broadheads flying right but there is nothing too technical about it. This should give you accuracy out to normal ranges that is more than enough to cleanly kill any animal and win plenty of 3d tournaments, with practice of course.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
swbuckmaster
Long Time Member
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Bigpig said
?If you demand the utmost accuracy following the above post will surely help get you there, but very few archers shoot well enough to realize the real benefit of such precision.?
For the majority of hunters out there your are correct Bigpig it wont help them. This is just a tip that will get the good ones shooting better.
Here is another way you can do what I stated earlier
I can take a bunch of already fletched up arrows and number them 1-6 and shoot them at 50-60 yards. Keep track of your arrows by putting a number on your target where each arrow hit and you will see a pattern after several ends of shooting your number one arrow might consistently hit high and left your number two arrow might hit low and right. But you will see a pattern. Even if it is fletched all you have to do is move it two the next fletching and shoot your groups again. You will notice the two arrows you are trying to get closer to the center will move closer to the center. Paper tuning or tuning your arrows in the shop will do this faster because you don't have to walk the 50-60 yards to pull arrows.
Now why would I go through all this trouble? I have seen 6 inch groups at 60 yards shrink down to 3 or 4 inches with me shooting them. Or sometimes I get an arrow that starts flying bad and I can't figure out why. Sometimes I just need to change my nock and sometimes I need to find the dynamic spine again to get it grouping again. Sometimes it just ends up in the trash. In target archery those couple of inches matter when scoring as small as your scoring rings. In hunting I believe it only matters because when you fix a broadhead to the tip of your arrow it wants to steer it just like your fletchings. Now if your arrow is coming out or flexing the same on every arrow your broadheads will defiantly group better.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
?If you demand the utmost accuracy following the above post will surely help get you there, but very few archers shoot well enough to realize the real benefit of such precision.?
For the majority of hunters out there your are correct Bigpig it wont help them. This is just a tip that will get the good ones shooting better.
Here is another way you can do what I stated earlier
I can take a bunch of already fletched up arrows and number them 1-6 and shoot them at 50-60 yards. Keep track of your arrows by putting a number on your target where each arrow hit and you will see a pattern after several ends of shooting your number one arrow might consistently hit high and left your number two arrow might hit low and right. But you will see a pattern. Even if it is fletched all you have to do is move it two the next fletching and shoot your groups again. You will notice the two arrows you are trying to get closer to the center will move closer to the center. Paper tuning or tuning your arrows in the shop will do this faster because you don't have to walk the 50-60 yards to pull arrows.
Now why would I go through all this trouble? I have seen 6 inch groups at 60 yards shrink down to 3 or 4 inches with me shooting them. Or sometimes I get an arrow that starts flying bad and I can't figure out why. Sometimes I just need to change my nock and sometimes I need to find the dynamic spine again to get it grouping again. Sometimes it just ends up in the trash. In target archery those couple of inches matter when scoring as small as your scoring rings. In hunting I believe it only matters because when you fix a broadhead to the tip of your arrow it wants to steer it just like your fletchings. Now if your arrow is coming out or flexing the same on every arrow your broadheads will defiantly group better.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
I hear ya. I'm anal about my equipment too. So much so that my friends laugh at me. One question for you... What arrows are you shooting? It would seem that a high end arrow with really consistent spine (like a Carbon Express Maxima Hunter) might have better results and sorting the arrows may be unecessary? I'm definitely not critizing what you are doing, just thinking out loud.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
swbuckmaster
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LAST EDITED ON Jun-06-08 AT 09:29AM (MST)[p]BP its alright.
I am using one of the best carbon arrows in the world a Goldtip pro's .001 straightness and + or minus 1 grain in weight
These arrows are nearly perfect right out of the box. I go one step further and make them perfect. When I am done they all weigh exactly the same. If I was shooting x-10 ore ACE Easton arrows I would do the same thing and I would still check their dynamic spine.
Testing their dynamic spine can only be done under load.
Floating them in a bath tub won't do it.
Putting them on a spine tester won't do it.
BP I am not trying to be argumentive here just asking questions. Do you believe your arrow bends or flexes out of your bow when shot?
BP if you believe your arrow does. Then does it not make sense to you that you would want your arrows coming out of your bow flexing or bending the same direction every time?
Now I am applying this to bow hunting. If your arrow is bending or flexing when shot and you have a fixed blade head attached to the tip, that blade is going to catch wind and deflect a little bit differently every time. That deflection only magnifies the farther that arrow flies.
I have learned my technique from one of the best shooters in the world Tim Gillingham.
It was last year or the year before that Tim won over a $100,000.00 shooting in archery tournaments. He was so dominate he won just about every tournament he shot. I shoot a lot of tournaments also. I don't consider myself a pro by any means and when a guy like Tim gives you advise or a tip on your equipment I tried it out.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
I am using one of the best carbon arrows in the world a Goldtip pro's .001 straightness and + or minus 1 grain in weight
These arrows are nearly perfect right out of the box. I go one step further and make them perfect. When I am done they all weigh exactly the same. If I was shooting x-10 ore ACE Easton arrows I would do the same thing and I would still check their dynamic spine.
Testing their dynamic spine can only be done under load.
Floating them in a bath tub won't do it.
Putting them on a spine tester won't do it.
BP I am not trying to be argumentive here just asking questions. Do you believe your arrow bends or flexes out of your bow when shot?
BP if you believe your arrow does. Then does it not make sense to you that you would want your arrows coming out of your bow flexing or bending the same direction every time?
Now I am applying this to bow hunting. If your arrow is bending or flexing when shot and you have a fixed blade head attached to the tip, that blade is going to catch wind and deflect a little bit differently every time. That deflection only magnifies the farther that arrow flies.
I have learned my technique from one of the best shooters in the world Tim Gillingham.
It was last year or the year before that Tim won over a $100,000.00 shooting in archery tournaments. He was so dominate he won just about every tournament he shot. I shoot a lot of tournaments also. I don't consider myself a pro by any means and when a guy like Tim gives you advise or a tip on your equipment I tried it out.
Archery is a year round commitment!!
No need to argue sw, I totally agree with you. You cannot be too particular when it comes to archery. I use the same arrows you do. GT Pro Hunter 7595. While the specs of that arrow are awesome with the tightest tolerances for straightness and weight in the industry, Gold Tips are not known for having really consistent spine. Consistent spine, as you know, is far more important for pinpoint accuracy than straightness or weight tolerances (within reason, of course). This is because, exactly as you stated, the arrow flexes coming out of the bow. It has to flex the same way each time. All I'm saying is that, while I use them too, I'm not so sure GT's have the most consistent spines out there. If I didn't already have about 3 dozen I'd be looking to switch. I'd be curious to see your results if you did the same testing with an arrow with more spine consistancy. I'd be willing to bet that you'd have less flyers and tighter groups with less effort. Again, I think what you are doing is awesome, just food for thought for the sake of conversation.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
www.hudallaassociates.com
H
Heat
Guest
I agree with the post above. Gold Tip is generally not known to be the most consistent arrow for arrow when it comes to spine consistency.
When asked about which arrows are most spine consistent, guys on bowsite most often recommend Carbon Tech when it comes to that category. Of course none are more consistent than aluminum.
When asked about which arrows are most spine consistent, guys on bowsite most often recommend Carbon Tech when it comes to that category. Of course none are more consistent than aluminum.
COLO3D
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I would have to strongly disagree with the inconsistent Gold Tip spine comments. I have not found a single Pro Series Gold Tip that would not group with the rest of the dozen. I fletch all of my arrows with the same color, this allows me to spin the nock as mentioned earlier to bring any flyers back into the group. It is rare that I have to though.
back to the original topic, I start with paper tuning and then do basically the same thing that swbuckmaster does with fletched arrows at longer range.
back to the original topic, I start with paper tuning and then do basically the same thing that swbuckmaster does with fletched arrows at longer range.
