Arrow Weight

buglemuley

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Messages
6
Am I overthinking? Over the last two years I've shot a deer and an elk with my bow and essentially the same set up. (elk was with fixed blade, deer was expandable) The elk I shot at 18 yards and he didn't go 20 yards before he tipped over dead. The deer I shot at 40 and he died within 60 yards. Neither shot was a pass through.

29 inch draw 70 lbs 418 grains with 100 gr broadhead.

Obviously, the set up has worked and I cannot complain one bit about the results. But I can't help but question if I should increase arrow weight slightly. Even if it's just a 125 gr broadhead instead? Or am I overthinking and "if it ain't broke don't fix it"?
 
That little bit of change, won’t make any real difference. I would focus on 2 things first:

1. Perfect arrow flight- Bare shaft perfect coming off the bow, and then fletch. Tuning fletched arrows can hide imperfections.

2. A Razor sharp, structurally sound broadhead. The better the steel quality, the better they will retain an edge and perform. These are not cheap BTW. $100 for 3 is a good starting point.
 
Wife’s setup is 52# 25.5dl 408 TAW. She uses a 125 fixed BH. Her bull last year was at 25 yards quarter to and she buried the arrow to the fletching. He made it 50ish yards before he was down and done. Her December mule deer 28 yards quarter to and complete pass through. He made it 30 yards before he kart wheeled end tumbled 375 yards down the mountain.
 
$100+ for 3 broadheads is not needed in my opinion. Nothing against guys that want to blow their money on Iron Will type broadheads, but any good fixed head will kill anything you want to kill if you hit them right. I've never spent over $30 for a pack of broadheads, and never spent over $75 on a dozen arrow shafts. I've also never had an issue on flight, penetration etc. It boggles my mind that guys think they have to shoot an arrow setup that costs $60-$70 a pop to kill, but to each their own.

If you're setup kills and you're confident in it I say stick with it. I shoot between 470-480 grain arrow for everything I hunt. I shoot a 70lb 29" 8 year old bow. When I miss, it's on me, the shot I chose to shoot etc. but not on my equipment. I will say I'm not a fan of mechs. That's my .02 cents.....which doesn't mean squat.
 
Don't overthink arrow weight. The internet is full of guys that swear you need a 750 grain arrow but it's more hype than anything. I also run 418 grain arrows. I'm shooting 292 fps. Bow shoots very flat and fast while still having enough kinetic energy and momentum to kill any animal in North America. A difference of 2 or 3 yards can be a game changer in archery so going too heavy can really cost you because that 2 or 3 yard difference is even greater when your arrow weighs a ton.

Make sure your arrows are flying properly and that your bow is tuned. Practice often and focus on proper shooting technique. If you can have a little Front of Center set up on your arrow it will help with penetration, but no need to get crazy with FOC either.

You'd don't need $30 per head broadheads. QAD Exodus are very affordable, tough, fly great, and as deadly as any head ever built. Mechanicals also do a fantastic job and are very very deadly.

There is so much marketing hype and over tinkering going on in the industry that it is crazy. Really all you need is a bow that fits you well, good form, practice and patience enough to take good ethical shots and you'll be fine. About 90% of an animal is a place you don't want to put an arrow. Practice and focus on being able to hit that 10% of the animal that is fatal. Most modern bows and arrows in that 10% will kill every animal every time.
 
We shoot FMJ340 566gr. Total arrow weight heads are G5 Striker 100gr total pass on bull elk at 40yds….shoot same as field points past 70yds.
 
Respectfully, you also don’t need a $1200 Bow, but it would probably be much better quality than a $400 bow…… Good gear isn’t cheap, and yes, top of the heap broadheads, made from top shelf steel, are expensive. Is it necessary, probably not always, but they are better.
 
Respectfully, you also don’t need a $1200 Bow, but it would probably be much better quality than a $400 bow…… Good gear isn’t cheap, and yes, top of the heap broadheads, made from top shelf steel, are expensive. Is it necessary, probably not always, but they are better.
I like a good friendly debate. This year's $1200 bow will be $700-$800 next year. So because it's a year old is it obsolete? What if the new technology is actually harder to shoot, less brace height, not as forgiving? Does it mean the $1200 is "better" than last years bow, because it costs more? What if I shoot a 5 year old $400 bow better than the flagship $1200 bow? Which one is "better"?

What if my Exodus, Slicktrick, Muzzy, Ramcat, broadheads fly better, penetrate better, and have killed faster than my buddies Iron Will heads? Are the Iron Will's still better because they cost more, or are made of higher grade steel?

Have the animals died "deader" with your "better" equipment than the animals I've killed with good equipment? If I manufactured a broadhead with the most expensive steel in the universe, marketed it to be the "best" and sold a 3 pack for $1500, would you buy them? Help me understand what "better" means.
 
I like a good friendly debate. This year's $1200 bow will be $700-$800 next year. So because it's a year old is it obsolete? What if the new technology is actually harder to shoot, less brace height, not as forgiving? Does it mean the $1200 is "better" than last years bow, because it costs more? What if I shoot a 5 year old $400 bow better than the flagship $1200 bow? Which one is "better"?

What if my Exodus, Slicktrick, Muzzy, Ramcat, broadheads fly better, penetrate better, and have killed faster than my buddies Iron Will heads? Are the Iron Will's still better because they cost more, or are made of higher grade steel?

Have the animals died "deader" with your "better" equipment than the animals I've killed with good equipment? If I manufactured a broadhead with the most expensive steel in the universe, marketed it to be the "best" and sold a 3 pack for $1500, would you buy them? Help me understand what "better" means.

You’re right….
 
I do believe in buying the best you can afford and I shoot a very expensive set up, but I don't believe that most expensive is always the best. Often times it is, but not always. I've seen lots of people shooting very expensive gear extremely poorly while others are shooting older setups very accurately and consistently.

My point to him was mainly that he does not "have" to run $30 per head broadheads to be deadly. If you have enough kinetic energy and momentum with your setup it will kill very effectively with all kinds of broadheads. Lots of great heads out there. Some are super expensive while others aren't. If you can afford them and they shoot good out of your bow go ahead and shoot the Iron Will heads. But if G5 Montecs do the same, go ahead and shoot them. They will absolutely kill time and time again.
 

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