Best 20 MOA rail?

monstermuleyhunter · Jan 31, 2013

I am putting together my new 300 RUM sendero and want input on what rail to use. I am using a Nikon 8-24x50 scope. I did do a Cross Canyon Arms brake. I have looked at Nightforce, Ferrell, Weaver, Millett. The Weaver and Millet are T6 aluminum and the others are steel. I am just looking for advice from someone that has tried these...ive heard the action flex's and the steel bases are much better but they are all on backorder so I had stumbled acrossed the aluminum ones and wondered if they were garbage. Any input is appreciated. Also I need 1" rings...which would be best with reccomended setup?

horncrzy · Jan 31, 2013

I am using a 20moa warne. It is the only 20 moa steel rail that I could get for my browning a bolt that wasnt custom made. You should have a whole selection of steel rails for your action. Ken Ferrels (which sit pretty high), Nightforce, Badger, Warne, Murphy precision (makes both steel and titanium). If you are looking for an aluminum rail make sure to get one made of 7075 aluminum. It is stronger. I think both seekins and EGW make one for your action out of 7075. Personally I would suggest a steel rail unless weight is an issue then get the 7075 Aluminum. There are also other top notch companies that make rails for your action but cant think of anymore right off the top of my head. All the same companies that are listed above make top notch rings also. Also.....since you are shooting a big magnum rifle I would suggest getting a rail that has a recoil lug that fits against your action so the screws dont take the brunt of the recoil (You might not need one because you have a break but why risk it?). Warne doesnt make one with a recoil lug however I am having a gunsmith weld one on mine.

nickman · Jan 31, 2013

Well...... I have about $130.00 invested in 2 of them on varmint rifles. One is my Savage Mod 11, LRH 300 WSM and the other is a Howa 243. I installed them to compensate for the POI change in lighter bullet weights. I was dumb.

Useless pieces of over marketing BS.

I didn't like the fact that they block the breech area so much, and make the rifle difficult to load/unload.

I cut the centers out of both of them this week and tossed the things in the trash. After remounting the pieces, re-sighting, and firing 10 rounds with each, both still seem to be holding "minute of coyote" at 300 yds. I did a little creative shaping on the bases so I now have a custom looking system.

I normally only use Warne bases and was stupid for paying so much extra for a one piece rail that is simply not an improvement in any, way, shape or form.

I would raise an eyebrow at the "flex" theory anyway.

The least expensive one is a Weaver, but I guarantee you won't like any of them.

I think they look retarded on a hunting rifle anyway.

"I could agree with you, but then we would both be
wrong......and stupid"

coolspringoutfitters · Jan 31, 2013

I am a huge fan of the EGW (Evolution Gun Works) rails. I have one on my RUM and one on my 204.

CSO

It's all about the good times...

elkassassin · Jan 31, 2013

>Well...... I have about $130.00 invested
>in 2 of them on
>varmint rifles. One is my
>Savage Mod 11, LRH 300
>WSM and the other is
>a Howa 243. I installed
>them to compensate for the
>POI change in lighter bullet
>weights. I was dumb.
>
> Useless pieces of over marketing
>BS.
>
>I didn't like the fact that
>they block the breech area
>so much, and make the
>rifle difficult to load/unload.
>
>I cut the centers out of
>both of them this week
>and tossed the things in
>the trash. After remounting the
>pieces, re-sighting, and firing 10
>rounds with each, both still
>seem to be holding "minute
>of coyote" at 300 yds.
>I did a little creative
>shaping on the bases so
>I now have a custom
>looking system.
>
>I normally only use Warne bases
>and was stupid for paying
>so much extra for a
>one piece rail that is
>simply not an improvement in
>any, way, shape or form.
>
>
>I would raise an eyebrow at
>the "flex" theory anyway.
>
>The least expensive one is a
>Weaver, but I guarantee you
>won't like any of them.
>
>
> I think they look retarded
>on a hunting rifle anyway.
>
>
>"I could agree with you, but
>then we would both be
>
>wrong......and stupid"

If You're gonna do that Nicky?

Why not Dual Dovetail Leupolds?

And don't tell me like the JOKER at Cabela's told me:Oh they don't make them!

"""Supporting Speed Limits doesn't make You Anti Car"""

No & You'll never Fix STUPID or WACKO'S by changing Gun Laws You Dumb BITTCH!

nickman · Jan 31, 2013

Bess.......I ALREADY admitted I was DUMB!

I have LOTS of rifles and I shoot hundreds of rounds a year. I don't recall a single "failure' issue, as a result of a bad set of bases'.

I have bought/worked on, used rifles that someone set up wrong......some fantastic mental giants out there!

My point; Don't pay extra for something you don't need.

"I could agree with you, but then we would both be
wrong......and stupid"

elkassassin · Jan 31, 2013

>Bess.......I ALREADY admitted I was DUMB!
>
>
>I have LOTS of rifles and
>I shoot hundreds of rounds
>a year. I don't recall
>a single "failure' issue, as
>a result of a bad
>set of bases'.
>
> I have bought/worked on, used
>rifles that someone set up
>wrong......some fantastic mental giants out
>there!
>
> My point; Don't pay extra
>for something you don't need.
>
>
>"I could agree with you, but
>then we would both be
>
>wrong......and stupid"

I wasn't calling you DUMB Nicky!

Just sayin...................!

"""Supporting Speed Limits doesn't make You Anti Car"""

No & You'll never Fix STUPID or WACKO'S by changing Gun Laws You Dumb BITTCH!

elkassassin · Jan 31, 2013

Growin up Nicky!

I was taught the Solid Bar One Piece/3 Screw Mount was the Strongest Mount!

Not a Bad Mount!

Surely not the Strongest!

Ya see Nicky!

Some of us have to Learn the Hard Way!

Did I ever tell you Nicky about my Math Teacher?

"""Supporting Speed Limits doesn't make You Anti Car"""

No & You'll never Fix STUPID or WACKO'S by changing Gun Laws You Dumb BITTCH!

ElmerFudd · Feb 1, 2013

The 20 MOA isfor getting a bit more elevation adjustment out of the scope, especially for long range .308 shooting. I'm not thinking it would be needed on something like a .300 RUM an any reasonable hunting range. I think you would be better to be in the center of adjustments at normal ranges with a 0 MOA base.

The rail has the sniper look and gives you more latitude to use different optics and mounting positions, but if it fits with the old fashioned weaver bases, those are just as good.

LongRangeBangin · Feb 1, 2013

LAST EDITED ON Feb-01-13 AT 04:00PM (MST)[p]I have only used Night Force bases, and have had great results with them. I was told by a lot of Long Range shooters, that once your done mounting everything on your rifle, that you should be 1 turn or less off the bottom of your scope (if using a 20 MOA base) sighting in at 100 yards . Both of mine ended up very close to the bottom (1/2 turn or less).