Broadhead for Elk

bragabit

Active Member
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811
I finally drew a premium Utah Elk tag. For deer I usually just shoot cheaper broadheads. I figure I had better step it up this year. I like the looks of the new G5 striker. Cabelas has a Copperhead broadhead that looks really similar. And the Wac-Ems are pretty close also. Does anyone want to share experience with any good or bad? Are there any better choices out there? Are any of these broadheads more accurate than the others? Thanks
 
Any quality well constructed head should be able to do the job on elk with a well placed arrow. I've arrowed them with Zwicky, Muzzy, Magnus and Wac'em heads. All performed as designed. There are number of reputable broadhead manufacturers out there today. I currently shoot Wac'ems.

If you're shooting a lighter arrow set-up, I personally would suggest a cut-on-contact traditional type head, as they penetrate well. Either one you choose, you need to shoot it accurately and have the confidence in it. Hope it helps and good luck.

BOHNTR )))---------->
 
Thanks for the help guys. The Cabelas Copperhead looks and the description is almost identical to the G5 striker but is $6 cheaper for 3. Are you just paying for the name and advertising for the G5. I don't mind spending the money (when it makes a differance).
 
The Copperhead is a different design than the Striker or original Wac'em. Do yourself a favor....pay the extra money for a Quality and Reputable manufacturer for your elk hunt of a lifetime. The extra money you spend is nothing to losing an elk because of a poorly constructed head. JMO

BOHNTR )))---------->
 
Brag,
Do yourself a favor and can the WhiskerB and get a reputable drop away rest. Then go buy a nice tough arrow and put a solid fixed blade broadhead on it like a Muzzy. Watch the balance point on your arrow when picking the weight of your broadhead. The WB is not the most accurate rest past 20 yards and can be effected greatly by temperature. And the best broadheads are the ones that are simple and indestructable. Just my 2 penny$.

HK


GO HARD KORE OR DON'T GO AT ALL
 
I like the looks of the G5 Striker as well, and I have heard a lot of good things about the Slick Trick broad heads, if any of you guys have used either let us know what you think.
 
>SOUTHWEST DESERT????????


I would prefer if it was Southwest Desert, because I know it a little better. I ended up drawing a Beaver tag. I will have plenty of help and all summer to figure it out.
 
Hk,
I tried Muzzy last year and could not get them to group. They were shooting 6 to 8 inches low and left from my field points at 50 yards. I bought a pack of Wac-Ems and they seemed to be alot more accurate.
 
My brother and I use the striker, we love them. They fly straight and are sharp! I have also used the montec g5 I shot a 5 point bull with them, then a buck the next week with the same head. Their only down side is they aren't as sharp as others out of the box.
 
LAST EDITED ON May-01-08 AT 01:34PM (MST)[p]Any good fixed head in the right place will do the job. Use the one that shoots good from your setup. Stick with proven models and don't try to save a buck or two, as BOHNTR said earlier.

These are the broadheads I have experience with and would have confidence in. G5 Montecs and Strikers, Rocket Ultimate Steel or Ultimate Titanium, Slick Tricks, NAP Nitrons, Wac'ems, and Boss Bullets. Any of these in the pumper will do the trick. Wait for the right shot, stay off the shoulder and put it in the crease.

http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.

www.hudallaassociates.com
 
Brag,
I'm not saying the Muzzy is the end all broadhead but i do find it weird that it flew differently than the others you tried. I have converted several buddies to the Muzzy just because it is so dang tough and flys so true. But your bow does have to be in tune for any broadhead to fly true. If your bow is perfectly in tune and you have the correct arrows, I believe any straight properly weighted broadhead will fly true. I have had many different bows and hundreds of arrows and one thing I have stuck with is the 100 grain Muzzy. I also like the fact that I can buy them just about anywhere. I can tell you I bought some titanium broadheads for the wife and they were the biggest most over priced pieces of crapsnapple I've ever seen. I thought titanium is harder than "steel" but it is much softer. And therefor they bend much easier. So after you shoot it once into your 3D target it will be bent. Okay that is 4 pennys now. Good luck.


HK


GO HARD KORE OR DON'T GO AT ALL
 
Hey Brag,
Congrats on the draw... Last year drew southwest desert archery elk and took a heck of a bull.... I was shooting the new PSE X-Force with whisker biscuit, Easton axis arrow, and G5 Montec.... Blew right through him at 37 yards... Great setup once it is dialed in..
 
Brag, congrats on drawing the tag... I switched to the G5 Strikers last year and first shot did an amazing job on my elk that I ended up shooting. Blew through the shoulder on the way out too. I will tell ya you won't find a sharper broadhead. Kinda funny how people bash the WB cause I have shot one for 3 yrs and not had any problems with it at all. I am not bashing on any of the drop aways but I personally think the WB is a great rest for hunting. If I were shooting competition I prob wouldn't be shooting it but it's great for what I do. G5 makes a great head...
redelkarcher>>>---------------->
 
LAST EDITED ON May-01-08 AT 08:39PM (MST)[p]Thanks for the help and opinions guys. One more question. I have always shot goldtip 5575 xt hunters. They have always shot well with good accuracy. I have been reading quite a bit here on the internet (probably to much). According to some things I read that is not enough arrow for my bow. I shoot a Bowtech Allegiance set at 72#. Arrow length of 28 inches. Total grains come out to be about 380. Is there any need to go to the 7595 arrow?
 
LAST EDITED ON May-01-08 AT 09:21PM (MST)[p]HKshooter we shoot Wisker and shoot broadheads (Slick tricks Muzzys Wack-ems G5 Stingers and snuffers)from 10 yards to 80 yards and have not had an accuracy problem... My son shot his elk at 80 yards with a wisker bisquet and double lungged the elk. elk went 30 yards. So Im not sure where you come up with the accuracy problem... Maybe thats your experience but... We have 4 of us that hunt together and all use wisker!
 
Brag, that arrow is a bit light for elk IMO. It will do the job with perfect placement, but it you hit some shoulder a bit more weight will give you better momentum and penetration. If you are inclined to switch, 7595's and 125gr heads will give you more juice without sacrificing too much speed. I shoot the same arrow, at the same length, with a 125 gr head and get about 420 gr. Your bow will push that plenty fast to blow through any elk on the mountain.

http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.

www.hudallaassociates.com
 
Big Pig,
Thanks for the help? I was leaning that way. Do you shoot the camo or black arrow? It looks like the camo one is a little over a grain an inch heavier. Does the camo coating make the arrow stiffer or just heavier? I am alos having a hard time finding the 7595's to buy any suggestions? Thanks again.
 
If you're buying on-line and not a local pro-shop, some of the best deals and quality customer service I've seen has been from Keystone Country Store. They'll have plenty of those shafts and already built arrows if desired. Hope it helps.

Here's the link: www.keystonecountrystore.com

BOHNTR )))---------->
 
I think the best broadhead on the market is the sonoran broadheads, with 17 animals taken in 07 between me and my brother we put them to the test. Check out there web page, they say these heads are awesome for elk. Dan
 
There are many great fixed blade broadheads on the market these days. I prefer Thunderhead 100s, and that is what I'l be hunting with on Monroe this September. I've had great luck with them and get excellent penetration.

Remember that an extremely sharp broadhead shot from a well tuned bow matters more than the brand of broadhead.

And taking a smart shot at a reasonable distance....
 
Hey brag...I would definitely suggest switching to the 7595s for your set-up. The extra weight will be an added bonus if that is what you're looking for, but the spine is the real issue. You should have better luck (even though you mentioned things have been fine in the past) with tuning, especially broadheads, with a properly spined shaft. As far as the camo shafts go, they are heavier, but not stiffer. Hope this helps!
 
Backinthegame,
I ordered the black 7595's the other day. With a 100 grain broadhead my total arrow weight will be around 410 grains. I am excited to get them here and get shooting. The stiffer shaft make alot of sense and should work great.
 
At 28", they will probably shoot better with a 125 gr head. You might be too stiff with 100's. Speaking from experience, 28" 7595's, 70 lbs and 125 heads shoot quite nicely and hit hard.

Proper spine is even more important than overall arrow weight. Without the right spine your arrows will never fly right.

http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.

www.hudallaassociates.com
 
Good advice so far, I have shot 5575's as high as 72lbs at 28" with a 100 grain fixed head. They were a little weak on spine but they were amazingly accurate with broadheads. That said, I do think you will be better off with the 7595's. I would try the 100 grain heads before switching to 125's.

I also think that you will be just fine with the 410 grain arrow.
 
I'm sure you'll love the 7595s brag! Like myself and a few others have said, proper spine is very important. My feeling is that when caught between two sizes the stiffer of the two is the way to go. I'm sure others have had different experiences, but that's the rule I follow! Either way, you've got a Gold Tip and that's the right choice!
 
I wanted to start with the 100 grains after calculating my FOC on goldtips website. They reccomend you stay between 8 to 12 percent. A 100 grain broadhead puts me at 11.19 percent. The 125 grain broadhead make it 13.29 percent.
 
>I wanted to start with the
>100 grains after calculating my
>FOC on goldtips website.
>They reccomend you stay between
>8 to 12 percent.
>A 100 grain broadhead puts
>me at 11.19 percent.
>The 125 grain broadhead make
>it 13.29 percent.


stick with the 100 gr
 
Don't worry so much about FOC. Within reason more is better with broadheads. You could go as high as 14-15% and a lot of folks do. I'm at a hair over 13% and they fly great. As a benchmark as long as you are over 400 gr you have a versatile arrow for anything in NA. But all these things mean nothing unless the spine is correct. You can try the 100gr and if you get poor flight or a stiff spine reaction, go with the 125's. Again, within reason, being a little too stiff is better than being not stiff enough. You just don't want to go over the line. Either way, 100 or 125, you should be fine with a 7595 but sometimes you won't know until you shoot them.

http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.

www.hudallaassociates.com
 
I shot a Beman 340 last year tipped with an awesome 150 grain Steelforce Hellfire. It WAS WICKED. I drilled my wyoming bull at 35 yards, hit him far back, you should've seen the blood trail that combination made. The blood was gushing out chest high on the sagebrush. The elk didn't make it more than 60 yards before expiring. People might think that 150 grains in way too much weight. I LOVED THEM....... You just got to practice with what you're going to lose and hopefully luck leads the elk to you. Can't wait to hear how you do on your hunt...
 
My cousin and I shot two bulls last year with fixed four blade broadheads with great results. His bull ran 200 yrds and mine ran 20. I shoot 4 blade Wacems and my cousin shoots 4 blade muzzies. The results dont lie. The extra blade makes a difference.
 
LAST EDITED ON May-19-08 AT 03:32PM (MST)[p]Brag, I bought a pack of cabelas copper heads a couple of mounths ago and have been fooling around with them. They shoot well and are very well constructed. they are exceptionly sharp and hold their edge, after being shot into my 4x4 target 6 times they would still shave the hair off my arm. I didn't buy them because of the price ,I like the way their built.I've shot many different heads over 32 years of bowhunting and may use them this year,But there are many good heads on the market that will do the job, they all have have to be put in the right spot. thats just my 2 cents, hope it helps.
 
HANDS DOWN THE BEST BROADHEAD FOR ELK AND OTHER BIG GAME ANIMALS ARE SONORAN BROADHEADS I HAVE NEVER LOST AN ANIMAL YET USING ONE OF THESE HEADS CHECK OUT THERE WEBSITE SONORAN BOWHUNTING.COM.
 

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