Broadhead Help?

buckshot

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Broadhead Help?

LAST EDITED ON May-07-04 AT 04:02AM (MST)[p]Last year when I was shooting broadheads I got erratic flight. Sometimes they would fly straight sometimes they would take a turn. Shot it though paper and it was shooting pencil holes. Checked the arrows with broadheads on a spinner made some small adjustments, not much help.

Set up is a Mathews Q2, 28 draw 64lb about 260 to 265 fps arrow weight is 444gr.
125gr, 3 blade muzzy, 4 in vanes, Nap quicktune rest. have been told that the arrows are correct spine for setup.

I want to stay with fixed blades, I don't think running out and buying (trying) a bunch of different broadheads is the answer, From what I have heard Muzz's shoot quit well for a lot of folks.

I have been told to try 5 in helical vanes and to switch to a dropaway rest?

What do you smart guys suggest?

Only the 2nd year shooting bows after about a 15yr layoff

Thanks in advance
buckshot
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

Buckshot,

How far away are you shooting through paper? Make sure you check at different distances. I usually start out at 6ft then go to 10yds and then 20yds. This way you make sure your testing the arrow flight throughout its flight. I have seen many times where arrows make bullet holes at a certain distance then step back a couple yards and you get a huge tear.

Bottom line is if your making bullet holes through paper at all distances you should be good to go. I have gone to a drop away and absolutely love it. I like the fact that I can put as much helical as I want on my arrows. Also, if the drop away is set up properly you won't have to worry about clearance problems which is one big reason for poor arrow flight.

I hope this will helps.

Later,
IB
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

I haven't been able to get Muzzy's to fly for the last several years. My bow is perfectly tuned and shoots great, just not with muzzys. I tried helical and a drop away with no success. You might need to try another head. I also shot them through paper and got a perfect hole. It seems they were very inconsistent down range though. Good luck, hope it works out for you.
BTW, I have been shooting Rocket Steelheads the last three seasons and have had great luck and success with them. They fly exactly like my field points.
>>>--------------------> Sixgunn <---------------------------<<<
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

I'll have to second the comments about Muzzy's not flying well for me. I've just had tons of trouble with them. Thunderheads, Rocky Mtn Titaniums and mechanicals all fly perfectly. There is no reason the Muzzy's shouldn't be flying perfectly, but I just can't get the consistancy with them that I'd like.

They do have a unique design that puts most of the weight way further forward than many of the other fixed blade heads. It may be a spine issue. I am definitely on the weak side with my 2312 aluminums at 62 lbs, 28" draw. This difference in design, might just be enough to cause them to go over the falls and not work well.

Buckshot, I'll suggest that your setup may be just close enough to the weak side on spine that the problem is cropping up with your 125 grain heads.

See if you can't try some 100 grain Muzzy's.

Cheers,
Pete
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

1. Don't count on a short shot thru paper to make a judgement.
2. Make sure your broadheads are fully seated.
And blades are corrected seated.
some times there are little burs in blade groves that keep
the blades from seating.
3. heat up insert w/ broadhead fully engaged and rotate blades
to be inline with fletchings.
4. support shaft behind broadhead and in front of fletching
and role arrow. check for straightness in shaft.
5. set up knock 90 deg to bow / arrow rest + arrow nock ht.
precise location is critical to acheive the absulute
preformance.
6. check your left and right. dont worie about yu sites at this
time your looking for the exact string line "snap" and set
your arrow rest left or right as reqd or in or out.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

In my opinion, in order to get any fixed broadhead to consistently fly well you have to be able to build your own arrows from bare shafts. Make sure when cutting your shafts that the cut is straight. Then you have to screw your broadhead into the insert before ever glueing it into the shaft and while glueing at the same time spinning the shaft on a flat surface to make sure there is no wobble. After that, fletch the arrow so your fletchings line up with the blades. It's kind of a pain but so is playing around with those rubberbands on those sorry mechanicals. As far as I'm concerned the 3 blade muzzy's are the best broadhead going and I've never had a problem getting them to fly as long as I follow the procedure above. I hope this helps.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

After a lot of testing ( and a lot of money spent on broadheads ) I was able to get most heads, including 100/4 bld Muzzys to fly good, but the two best heads for consistant accuracy and same P.O.I. as field points were Magnus stingers 100/4 bld and Montec G-5 100/3 bld.
If your going to try a new head, I would recomend the Magnus stinger. Very sharp right out of the package, never had to do any tuning to any of them. Magnus also backs them up for life, no matter what you do to them.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

Thanks everyone

When I shot paper it was only at one distance, I'll back up some and give it a fling.
Lots of info I will reference back to this post for a while. I still think I might go with a drop away and get my arrows reflected.

Buckshot
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

If your going to get them refletched anyway, you may as well have the shop fletch them inline with the head. If you are shooting aluminum arrows, have the shop check the cut as well. Then reseat the insert with the head installed.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

Sounds like your setup should work. Have a buddy shoot your bow and check the arrow flight. Could be the nut in front of the but is torquing his bow. Been there done that.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

I was having broadhead trouble too. Then I switched to a drop away, and now they fly great. Give that a try.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

As mentioned before, make sure your bow is tuned properly--Also, it sounds to me like your FOC is off--I would strongly suggest going to a lighter broadhead. To determine your FOC measure the arrow from the tip of the nock to the tip of the head and mark the center of the arrow. Next, put another mark on the arrow at the balance point. Measure the distance between the center mark and the balance mark and divide it by the total length of the arrow, then multiply it by 100 and it will give you a percentage. If that percentage is between 7% and 10% you are in the normal range if not you need to go to a lighter/heavier arrow to be optimal. If the arrow is to front end heavy it will cause the arrow to nose dive. Here is an example: With a 28" draw length your arrows(I'm guessing) are around 28 1/2" long + 125 grain broadhead we'll say the total length is 30". So, the center point is at 15" and we'll guess that the balance point is at 11" from the broadhead. Subtract the two marks and you get 4, divide 4/30 X 100= 13% This means that you need to go to a lighter head that will close the gap from the center and balance point to bring that percentage down 3-6%. If you do take these steps, you shouldn't have any problems:
1- make sure bow is tuned
2- 4" fletching with a helicle or offset
3- use the correct grain of broadhead according to FOC
4- make sure the arrow has the correct spine
5- also remember that the least amount of contact with the rest will help you--try using a drop-away or my personal favorite the wisker biskit.
If you do this you will have perfect broadhead flight--I guarantee it!!!
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

LAST EDITED ON Jun-16-04 AT 11:52AM (MST)[p]most of you have talked about tuning your points with the fletching,
but it seams to me most don't know the glue is heat sentitive,
heat it with a butain torch or lighter and you can turn the point so that it lines up with the fletchings.
as it cools the glue sets up again.
tuning you bow to the arrow is as easy as it sounds.
once acheaved doesn't mean that your not going to get a arrow that flies waco, if this is the case just set that shaft aside and only use it for practice.
I paint them orange, then there's no mistake in loading it in you quiver for a hunt.
plain and simple not all shafts will fly perfictaly.
but if you get your bow tuned to the point where 99 percent do, then the war is one.
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

The easton tuning Guide (p.32) calls for a front of center for hunting arrows of 10-15%. Also, the guide calls for a front of center between 11 & 16% (ACE target arrows). I just figured I would put that out on the table. I have been struggling between 100gr. and 125gr. broadheads myself. Either will put me in the right range, so I will probably go with the 100gr.

Have a good one (whatever it is)!
 
RE: Broadhead Help?

Have you numbered you arrows and are they all flying wacko or just certain ones? Have you tried rotating you nocks? Did you group tune? These are the only things I can think of... try the above options..

jason
 

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