Drop Away HELP

[FamousAddiction]

Tonight when I was shooting a little bit I noticed my groups went from 1 1/2" to about 2 1/2" at 25 yds, so I started fiddling a little bit. I did the ol lip stick test to see if I was getting any fletchig contact and noticed a small faint streak at the top of my left prong ( I shoot a Limbsaver Drop Away). I tried twisting my nock point a bit, but got the same result. I have also lengthend my fall away cord a bit but am still having that faint streak. I shoot a reflex 30.5" draw 74lbs with gold tip 7595 and 100 grain tips if that helps. I just need a little help being new to the "fine tuning" of archery. Thanks for any help/hints.

 

[COLO3D]

I don't have any experience with the Limbsaver drop away, does it have an adjustment for the speed of the drop?

 

[BigPig]

The cord may have stretched. Try shortening it just a hair. At the end of the day, some rests just wont work with some bows so don't be afraid to change either.

 

[FamousAddiction]

Not sure if it has an adjustment for speed or not. I tried messing with it this morning before I went to work and still ended up with contact on the left prong. I tried scooting the rest just a bit, both to the right and left and it didn't seem to have any effect.BigPig, I guess I don't understand why I would shorten the cord, by shortening it wouldn't that cause my rest to come up quicker and take a longer time to drop? I'll tinker with it a bit more, but do to my inexperience with these new rests, I'll end up taking it to a shop. Thanks for the info guys.

 

[COLO3D]

How long is your rest up while drawing?

 

[FamousAddiction]

It pops up in about the last 2-2 1/2" of my draw.

 

[SweetBull]

i had the same problem and eventually just switched to the tiny duravanes, the ones that protrude just under .5" from the shaft. no more clearance probs

 

[COLO3D]

See how it works with being up for just the last 1 1/2".

 

[inline]

I would leave it coming up around the last 2 inches. But like someone posted about shorter vanes, make sure that the contact is from the rest being in the elevated position to long and not because your vanes are too tall and are striking it while it in the down position.

Take out more than you brought in!

 

[FamousAddiction]

Well I finally got it figured out!!! Well Friday night I took it in to Sportsmans Warehouse (where I bought the bow) told them what's going on, they lasered it, checked centerline, and checked to make sure my nocking pont was level when the rest was flipped all the way up. Everything seemed to check out pretty good, took it back to shoot it through paper and was still getting a low tear. The guy helping me out insisted that I was not getting any contact from my fletchings touching the rest, so I pulled out my lipstick (bowhunting purposes only) put some on the vanes, shot it and showed him where I was gettig contact. To make a long story short we adjusted everything, length of drop cord, rest up/down, rest forward/back, twisting nock, still ended up getting contact and a low tear when shooting paper. This is where I got pretty upset, the guy told me "Well your not shooting bullet holes, not a big deal, and your vanes seem to be barely toucing, so just take it to a range, make sure your grouping good at 20 yds, and if you are don't worry about it" Followed by "Just pretend nothing is wrong with your bow" Basically told me that if I'm grouping, don't worry about the small stuff, everything will be fine. He also had the nerve to tell me that he knows pros that shoot a worse paper tear than mine (mine was about an 1 1/2" tear). I'm pretty new to tuning bows, but I'm not stupid, so I took it to a true pro shop, told them what's going on and they had it figured out it no time. My lower cam was off by about 3/16", so we put a couple twists in the cable, made a few minor adjustments to the nocking point and BINGO, shooting bullets. Not only was I shooting bullets, but so were the other two guys helping me and they could barely keep my bow drawn (30.5" draw @ 70 lbs) they were quite a bit smaller build than I am. I guess I learned my lesson, no offense to Sportmans, but I will never ask them to touch my bow again after that fiasco. Thx to all you MMer's for the advice and tips, and sorry for the long story, just thought it'd be entertaining.

 

[FamousAddiction]

I had one more question. I imagine that my cam was off due to the string stretchng, I probably have about 250-300 shots with it. Am I on the right track with this assumption? Also was wondering, once a string gets settled, how often do the cams come out of timing, is this going to be an ongoing problem?

Thanx again

 

[parnellie]

i know how you feel i have been in that situation before. im courious how to check the cam to see if it is off.

 

[mathewsman]

Sounds like you had a good experience with a real archery pro. Build a good relationship with him because a good pro you can trust is invaluable when it comes to keeping your equipment performing at its best. As for your question about ongoing problems, it won't neccessarily be an ongoing problem, but your bow needs to be serviced (like your truck) regularly. Depending on how much you shoot will determine how often you take it in. I take mine in once every year (after the hunts) to have it checked, cleaned, and re-tuned. It's not very costly and I always know my bow is spot on. Peace of mind is priceless!

 

[BigPig]

Very good lesson learned. A good pro shop is a treasured resource.

To answer your question, yes that is very common. I really don't even start tuning a bow until after about 200 shots. The strings and cables will stretch and throw off timing and/or give you unlevel knock travel. The good thing is that once the string settles (provided it is a quality string) they will usually stay put once retuned and brought back to spec.

 

[FamousAddiction]

Well if that's the case, hopefully I should be good for a while. Like I said earlier, I have about 250+ shots through it, so I'm hoping she settled in, after work I'll paper test to make sure I'm good, then I'll mark my cams for a quick reference.