Ear ajustment??

[born_2_hunt]

I had my deer mounted and it looks great but the guy forgot to ask me how I wanted the ears. My buck has a 9" drop tine on its left side and he tried to make it more visible so he moved the ear back a bit but left the other in the alert position. Is it possible move the left ear forward after everything has dried?

 

[nmtaxi]

I like the one ear forward, one back on a pose. Pretty natural for a mulie to do that. It could be re-hydrated and moved most likely. How easy it is depends on what material were used.

 

[NiceRack]

I doubt seriously that the ear can be repositioned without damaging the cape. The ear butt is most likely sculpted from clay that has hardened in position. There are artificial ear liners that are available that have a pivoting option but again after the ear has dried in its set position you are stuck with it! A major operation would be to rehydrate the entire cape, remove it and remount the whole thing, but this ia a major job and also risks damaging the cape.
Paul
"Nice Rack" Taxidermy

 

[born_2_hunt]

its just gonna have to stay as it is i guess. thanks

 

[4000fps]

>I doubt seriously that the ear
>can be repositioned without damaging
>the cape. The ear butt
>is most likely sculpted from
>clay that has hardened in
>position. There are artificial ear
>liners that are available that
>have a pivoting option but
>again after the ear has
>dried in its set position
>you are stuck with it!
>A major operation would be
>to rehydrate the entire cape,
>remove it and remount the
>whole thing, but this ia
>a major job and also
>risks damaging the cape.


This info is not true ^.

Unless the taxidermist used epoxy type hidepaste, it should be no problem to rehydrate the ear butt, and move the ear forward. The ear can take a few days to rehydrate, but it can definitely be done.

I personally like on ear back, and especially if you are trying to showcase the dropper.

 

[NiceRack]

You missed my whole point. You risk damaging the cape!
You would have to rehydrate, remove the ear butt and then re-sculpt with new clay, reposition and then re-sew the cape. Again as I said above this is a major operation and risks damaging the cape.
Paul
"Nice Rack" Taxidermy

 

[4000fps]

You obviously don't know what you are talking about. You do not have to remove the earbutt, or install new clay. If you are doing your ears right, you are using the same amount of clay per ear. Simply rehydrate the earbutt until it is soft, and reposition the ear. Takes some work, but it is not that big of a deal. I have done it several times, as have most experienced taxidermists. And you don't need to cut any seams etc!

 

[couesdeer]

The best way would be to re-work the connection points between the ear and the skull. This may involve adding/removing clay to the ear butt. You may also destroy the skin during the process. It can be done but would be best left up to your taxidermist of which there should be additional charges plus a signed disclosure statement for possible issues that may occur.

 

[NiceRack]

>The best way would be to
>re-work the connection points between
>the ear and the skull.
>This may involve adding/removing clay
>to the ear butt. You
>may also destroy the skin
>during the process. It can
>be done but would be
>best left up to your
>taxidermist of which there should
>be additional charges plus a
>signed disclosure statement for possible
>issues that may occur.


This is exactly the point I was making!
You can't rehydrate the clay only the skin. And, any time you rehydrate a skin and open up a mount you "RISK" damaging it!
And after 26 years I do know what I am doing!
Paul
"Nice Rack" Taxidermy

 

[4000fps]

LAST EDITED ON Aug-14-09 AT 02:52PM (MST)[p]Have you guys ever tried this? You do not need to remove clay etc. Is everyone taking crazy pills or something? If it is a new mount, that utilized a tanned cape, then rehydrating it won't be a problem.

A forward ear, or a ear back, has the same connection point (ear canal). It also should have the same amount of clay per earbutt.

The only way this wouldn't work is if the taxidermist uses ears with built in earbutts (not clay) or used a epoxy type hidepaste etc, that cannot rehydrate.

Paul, sadly after 26 years, you obviously don't know what you are doing. To move an earbutt, a taxidermist takes a wet rag etc, wraps the earbutt, then covers it with plastic wrap, until it is soft enough to move. You think a leather hide is some sort of barrier to water? No! The water will soak right through, and into the clay. This is very basic taxidermy.

 

[NiceRack]

>Paul, sadly after 26 years, you
>obviously don't know what you
>are doing. To move an
>earbutt, a taxidermist takes a
>wet rag etc, wraps the
>earbutt, then covers it with
>plastic wrap, until it is
>soft enough to move. You
>think a leather hide is
>some sort of barrier to
>water? No! The water will
>soak right through, and into
>the clay. This is very
>basic taxidermy.


Yes I have tried this only to have the clay crumble or not soften at all and this required rebuilding the ear butt. That has been my experience. I don't claim to be such an expert as you that professes this type of "basic taxidermy" procedure can be done with out "RISK" to the cape. Without insulting you as you have me I defer to your expertise.
Paul
"Nice Rack" Taxidermy

 

[4000fps]

>Yes I have tried this only
>to have the clay crumble
>or not soften at all
>and this required rebuilding the
>ear butt.

I will give you a hint...wet clay doesn't crumble. You obviously didn't soak it long enough. It can take a week or more to get it soft enough.

 

[deerbedead]

4000 is right on this one. Soak it up and reposition it. I've done it several times and never had a problem with the hide getting ruined.

 

[quest]

4000fps I agree with you. Only thing I'd be concerned about is passable hair slippage.