European mount help!
- Thread starter dropper10
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SPIRITELK
Guest
WHITE SPRAY PAINT. LOL
highcountryfever
Active Member
- Messages
- 256
I have used a powder bleach and developer from a hair salon. Works good enough for me. I usually will apply at least 2 coats. And for under $20 the price is right.
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Damn you Scott!
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Damn you Scott!
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The previous post is right. Don't use bleach. Use high-strength hydrogen peroxide. 40 or 50 volume available at beauty supply stores. It has a shampoo consistency. I use a cheap sponge brush and "paint" it on the skull. It doesn't take very much and a bottle will last a while. Coat thuroughly and set out in the sun for a day, and walla . . . You can spot apply as well with a cue tip, but, why not do the whole skull? It's not like it can get too white.
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DakotaSage
Guest
+1 on the peroxide. I have done about 10 skulls over the past couple of years, between mine and friends and neighbors, and I love using peroxide. I actually buy the bottles from walmart that are only like $1 a bottle and stand the head up in a small plastic bucket, then fill the peroxide to just below the base of the antlers. Then I wrap paper towels around the base of the antlers and lay a folded up paper towel over the top of the skull, which stays constantly wet with peroxide. This way might be harder with an elk skull, but works great with deer skulls. I leave the head in the solution for about 24 hours and they come out perfectly white. I have always wanted to try the salon grade peroxide. I definetly think it would be better for elk.
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patientlywaiting
Guest
Actually what I was told that the big boys use who do this professionally is hydrogen peroxide that is 35%.(not the weak stuff we all have in our homes)
I bought a gallon of it years ago someplace in north SLC. I think it was only about $30 bucks. I don't remember the name of the store but they sold live traps and I think their specialty was fish handling equipement (for fish farms) i.e. big nets, pumps etc. But the stuff worked like a charm on the 8-10 skulls I did. One thing I found is you need to do it as soon as you can after killing the animal. A friend had a lion skull he found that was already stripped of meat. Even though there was no meat or anything on it we still boiled it for a 30 minutes and painted the peroxide on and after letting it sit for 30-45 minutes like the others it didn't look much different after we washed it off.
good luck..
I bought a gallon of it years ago someplace in north SLC. I think it was only about $30 bucks. I don't remember the name of the store but they sold live traps and I think their specialty was fish handling equipement (for fish farms) i.e. big nets, pumps etc. But the stuff worked like a charm on the 8-10 skulls I did. One thing I found is you need to do it as soon as you can after killing the animal. A friend had a lion skull he found that was already stripped of meat. Even though there was no meat or anything on it we still boiled it for a 30 minutes and painted the peroxide on and after letting it sit for 30-45 minutes like the others it didn't look much different after we washed it off.
good luck..
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west
Guest
I agree with finding the strong stuff instead of the household peroxide. I actually go 3/4 peroxide and quarter water. One mixture is good for 5 or 6 skulls. Ill let the skull soak for about 2-3 days. I've also found that you need to let the skull dry for about a week and a half before putting any kind of coating on it. If you don't the skull can yellow. I don't think you can get any whiter then these turn out
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smokepoler63
Active Member
- Messages
- 371
Most of the posters have had good information. One guy suggested that the yellowing may be caused by grease leaching back out of the bone. This is correct. The skull needs to be completely de-greased prior to bleaching, or it will continue to yellow.
Use Sal soda, available from Vandykes Taxidermy supply or others. It is sometimes called washing soda. Boil the skull in water and Sal Soda to degrease it completely. Be careful to not over boil the skull, the smaller bones and teeth will come apart and fall out of the skull if over boiled.
After degreasing, make a paste from 40 to 50 volume peroxide, available from the beauty supply store, and magnesium carbonate, also available from taxidermy supply businesses. I believe that the kits sold at Sportsman's Warehouse contain these two items.
Wear gloves for this step, the peroxide and chemicals will burn your skin. Put the paste on the skull with a cheap brush, bag the skull in a garbage bag, and place in the garage for a day. After waiting a day or two, thoroughly rinse the skull and place in the direct sunlight for several days. This will result in a nice white skull with professional results.
Use Sal soda, available from Vandykes Taxidermy supply or others. It is sometimes called washing soda. Boil the skull in water and Sal Soda to degrease it completely. Be careful to not over boil the skull, the smaller bones and teeth will come apart and fall out of the skull if over boiled.
After degreasing, make a paste from 40 to 50 volume peroxide, available from the beauty supply store, and magnesium carbonate, also available from taxidermy supply businesses. I believe that the kits sold at Sportsman's Warehouse contain these two items.
Wear gloves for this step, the peroxide and chemicals will burn your skin. Put the paste on the skull with a cheap brush, bag the skull in a garbage bag, and place in the garage for a day. After waiting a day or two, thoroughly rinse the skull and place in the direct sunlight for several days. This will result in a nice white skull with professional results.
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smilesgv
Guest
+ 1 on smokepole, that is how I do it. I will even leave the paste on a little longer and place it in the sun with the bag. Then wash off with the hose.
