fixed blade or mechanical help?

HNTNFSH

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I am having a tuff time deciding to shoot a fixed blade or a mechanical broadhead. There are so many and being a somewhat of a newbie to modern day archery. I just can't decide do I go with a rage or a g5 striker or maybe just the tried and true muzzy I say that cuz have talk to some people at archery shops and they say when in doubt go with muzzy for decent and dependable results. What do all you guys think? Thanks in advance everyone on here has really helped me in the past and I surely appreciate it.
 
Just my two cents but I would go with a fixed blade head like the striker, I shoot the shuttle t lock from trophy taker and absolutly love it. Mechanicals are alright for broadside shots if you hit the animal behind the front shoulder where your suppose to but mechanicals suck on quartered animals or if you catch the front shoulder you wont get penetration, im confident enough in my broadheads that if I happen to hit a animal in the front shoulder I can still get enough penetration to get into the vitals. Im sure there will be guys argue with me on this but thats just my experience.
 
Can't beat the G5 Striker, they fly true just like a field tip. Hope this helps, good luck!
 
While I'm relatively new to the archery gig, the one thing I have learned is that when you ask a broadhead question on an internet forum, you might just as well grab a bag of popcorn and watch the show that unfolds :D

While I have no personal experience with them, mechanical broadheads seem to me to introduce more moving parts and widgets, springs, and rubber bands to solve a problem that never existed in the first place.

Based on my reading and the talk at the shop I frequent, Rage seems to be a "love 'em or hate 'em" deal. G5 get's a lot of love as well as Wac 'em. Trophy taker with their t-lock system seems to be a regional phenomenon currently but are catching on.

For my money, your basic Muzzy 3-blade model comes in a pack of 6 for nearly the same $$$ as other folks 3-packs plus you get the wrench and practice blades included. Simply to assemble and sharp out of the box...but easy enough to hone for those that wish to. And walk into any archery shop and I'm willing to bet the majority of the antlers on the wall fell to a Muzzy.
 
There is no right answer. Opinions about and no one is right or wrong. Sharp and in the right spot is the only thing that matters at the end of the day.

But if you want to split hairs, what I prefer is a solid machined steel (no G5 pot metal, or cheesy aluminum), 3 blade, cut on contact head. For me, this gives me confidence as I know I have ruled out all possible variables of something breaking or failing to work as designed. It is also a proven broadhead design that has been around forever. No gimicks, just functionality. For me, this means a VPA 3blade broadhead.

Back when I shot replaceable blade heads, I had great results with Slick Tricks.
 
I believe a lot of it has to do with what you plan on hunting. I have killed 3 blacktail deer and 3 or 4 wild pigs with Rage 2 blades and they performed awesome. However, I would not think about shooting an elk or any other large bodied game with one. I have switched to G5 Strikers. Cut on contact with replaceable blades and they fly great. Like others have said, you will get lots of opinions on this one.
 
I have been bowhunting for over 25 years and I have used many different heads. Mechanicals get some bad rap but I have to say I have had alot of success with them. I have used rockets and NAPS shockwaves. They have both performed very well. I do usually use fixed heads though. I have had great lucky with muzzy, steelforce and magnus. I have even taken a real nice bull elk with some $20.00 for 6 Cabelas heads that look like muzzys. Sharp heads and shot placement are the key. Find what flies good for you and place it where it needs to go.Good luck notags
 
Thanks for all the info and advice I'm gonna try the muzzy and I have a guy sending me some grim reaper mechanicals. Iwill start there and se what happens thanks again
 
Hey, they all work, an arrow is an amazingly efficient killer.

Maybe look at it this way; Shot placement and arrow flight are the two main keys.

Well you can't have good arrow flight without tuning- and you especially have to tune your BH's even mech heads. You can't just screw them on without checking ANY head. There are a few reasons; Arrow/head could have a slight wobble or spine of the arrow is just a bit off, etc. and the BH tipped arrow doesn't fly exactly where you are aiming- a big problem when we work so hard for one shot!

I think there are many cases where the archer screws the BH on and assumes that particular arrow will fly perfect- what if it doesn't?

To cut to the chase, I like a fixed Cut on contact head [blades to the point- Snuffer SS, Hellrazor, and others] that I can shoot to make sure each one flys perfect and then resharpen. Its a big confidence builder. You can do the same with Mech heads
 
> Hey, they all work, an
>arrow is an amazingly efficient
>killer.
>
> Maybe look at it this
>way; Shot placement and arrow
>flight are the two main
>keys.
>
> Well you can't have good
>arrow flight without tuning- and
>you especially have to tune
>your BH's even mech heads.
>You can't just screw them
>on without checking ANY head.
>There are a few reasons;
>Arrow/head could have a slight
>wobble or spine of the
>arrow is just a bit
>off, etc. and the BH
>tipped arrow doesn't fly exactly
>where you are aiming- a
>big problem when we work
>so hard for one shot!
>
>
>I think there are many cases
>where the archer screws the
>BH on and assumes that
>particular arrow will fly perfect-
>what if it doesn't?
>
>To cut to the chase, I
>like a fixed Cut on
>contact head [blades to the
>point- Snuffer SS, Hellrazor, and
>others] that I can shoot
>to make sure each one
>flys perfect and then resharpen.
>Its a big confidence builder.
>You can do the same
>with Mech heads


+1 I have had one broadhead shoot great out of one setup and complete horrible out of another. I just bought a new bow last year and it shoots considerably faster and the only broadhead I can get to shoot well are mechincals. Im also very picky bout the way my bow shoots.
 
Between what you asked about.....I would recommend the G5 strikers. I shoot Wac'em Tritons and they are essentially the same head. My Tritons fly great at all yardages just like my field tips. They are extremely accurate with the flight characteristics, tough, and super sharp! There are more factors involved with shooting an expandable head that I don't like....I'll stick to a fixed blade or replaceable blade head.

Good luck!

Jared "J-Rod" Bloomgren

www.facebook.com/jaredbloomgren
 
Strikers and Wac'ems essentially the same? Not IMO. Striker ferrules are made of poured and pressed cast metal. Wac'ems are machined! Big difference if you ask me.
 
I personally like the shuttle t broadhead. It flies really well and penetration is uncanny. I have heard good reviews about the g5 as well....I would stay away from muzzy though. I can shoot 3" groups w my shuttle t out to 70 yards but could no get a consistent group w the muzzy. Just my $.02. Good luck.
 
I have had great luck with the g5 strikers. Muzzy's are cheap for a reason. Buy a head that has been spin tested from the factory. I think muzzy's main reason for inconsistency is a lack of balance. At least that has been my experience with muzzy.
 
Too many variables to give a good answer. What kind of bow are you shooting? Draw length? How fast? How much KE?
If you're shooting a new speed bow with a lot of KE a good mechanical will do great on any animal. (it pains me to admit that)
If your bow is older and doesn't shoot super fast and lower KE I'd go with fixed COC blade.
It's not a one size fits all question/answer.


Traditional >>>------->
 
I like fixed blades better. If I go on a elk hunt or a larger game then deer I will used fix blades. I really think which ones tune to you and your bow and then what you like.
 
I'm going to toot my own horn a bit and post a collection of kills that my boy and I have taken over the last 4 or 5 years using NAP Spitfire 85's. About half these deer were taken between 50 and 65 yards. A couple were shoulder blade hits at moderate angles. The thing I love the most is the fact that I've never had to tune them in, just unscrew my 85 grain fieldpoint and go hunting.
3197presentation1.jpg
 
LAST EDITED ON Mar-30-12 AT 03:10PM (MST)[p]Muzzy's have probably killed more animals than all others combined, however their quality control hasn't been very good for years.

I tried various mechanicals & hated them all.

Tried G5's and Hellrazors, pretty good blade, but take too much effort & time to get razor sharp. Couple years ago I shot a bull elk at 16 yds quartering away. Arrow hit just about the perfect spot, maybe a couple inches high, and for whatever reason (we'll never know) I only got 1/2 arrow of penetration. This was with a 125g Hellrazor that would shave the hair off your arm.

In my opinion a chisel tip will punch thru bone where a cut on contact has to slice thru the bone. In my mind the chisel point will have far better success getting thru.

Ever tried to cut fresh bone with a sharp knife?

Started using 125g 4 blade slick trick's last year and I think I'll stick wtih this head from now until I die. Very impressed with them.
 
There seems to be a cast in stone mindset among alot of older archers,that mechanicals will never be worth a grain of salt. A friend of mine who is prone to buck fever worse than I has made every miserable hit imagineable with 125 grain spitfires. He has always recovered his animal. I am positive that many of those gutshots would not have been recovered if he was shooting one of todays smaller wound channel broadheads everyone likes because of their flight characteristics. What will 99% of the population tell you if they make a hit with a fixed blade and they don't recover their animal? (Bad Hit). What response will you get when they shoot an animal with a mechanical and it is not recovered? (It's The Mechanicals Fault). After having experienced nothing but raving success with easy to tune mechanicals I would never consider for a heartbeat of ever going back to any fixed blade.
 
Actually, even a small three blade broadhead will usually have a wound channel comparable to or exceeding a two blade mechanical.
I shoot a Ramcat with a CD of 1 3/8". Calculate that in a three blade pattern and a two blade mechanical doesn't even come close. Shoot a Ramcat and you have the best of both worlds. Field point accurate and a devastating wound channel.
As far as the G5 strikers, I have seen them punch through elk shoulders like they were nothing. Blasted through the rib cage and off side leg bone of a large black bear. You guys can say pot metal all you want, that is one bad mutha of a head. I can find nothing bad to say about it. It is the sharpest out of the package broadhead, period. Fly like darts to. I have seen it kill alot of animals.


smiley-violent064.gif
 
>I'm going to toot my own
>horn a bit and post
>a collection of kills that
>my boy and I have
>taken over the last 4
>or 5 years using NAP
>Spitfire 85's. About half these
>deer were taken between 50
>and 65 yards. A
>couple were shoulder blade hits
>at moderate angles. The thing
>I love the most is
>the fact that I've never
>had to tune them in,
>just unscrew my 85 grain
>fieldpoint and go hunting.
>
3197presentation1.jpg

Can I hunt with you? ;-)
 
That Gravedigger looks like it could be a planing nightmare. My biggest issue with any fixed blade is how ultra critical your nock height is, if your are 1/16" high, any fixed blade on the market will dive a bit, 1/16" low and they may climb a bit. Why worry about supertuning if you don't have to. If you spend the day in a rainstorm now you get to worry about if your cables stretched 1/16" or not, there is much less concern and worry about the bow when you're six miles from the truck shooting a forgiving mechanical.
 
Hmmmmm... never had my strings/cables stretch in a rain storm. If they do stretch that doesn't mean your nock height will change. You don't need to supertune to get a fixed head to fly right. 20 minutes with a paper tuner and or french tuning and your centershot is perfect. Shooting a mechanicals does allow you to shoot a bow better that isn't tuned correctly......but why would you want to do that? A good fixed blade heads kills bigger animals better....plain and simple.
 
The reason I mentioned stretching cables and changing nock height is because I'm speaking from an experience. I had that exact scenario happen many years ago. I came off the mountain after 3 days of horrible weather and as always shoot a few practice shots prior to returning for the following weekend. My broadheads were diving 6" low at 40 yards, had I not performed a check prior to continuing my hunt I would have been screwed, after this experience I went mechanical and have never looked back. I wouldn't want to shoot a bow that isn't properly tuned. If you read between the lines a bit you'll realize tuning is less critical with an expandable than any fixed blade. I've been shooting spitfires now for several years with 100% success, and they actually do hit exactly where my field points hit.
 
I've been shooting the Montecs, have really like them so far. Fly like field points with the right arrow of course, but a friend and I took our boys on a pig hunt this year, my buddy made a perfect shot right behind the shoulder, I punched mine horribly right through the guts. We were both shooting the same Montecs, long story short, my pig was dead within 35 yards, he had to shoot his 2 more times, all "lethal" shots. After cutting each pig open and seeing what happened I was shocked. His arrows had found a pocket above the heart and below the lungs that was about an inch big. Had he used any expandable with the same shot it would have been devastating with one arrow instead of 3.

My shot luckily severed the main artery where the stomach and the small intestine meet.

I ended up getting my hands on a Swhacker on our bear hunt in Canada, and after seeing what it did to my buddies bear I decided to give it a try. Shot my bear at 20 yards, arrow blew through, hung up on the fletchings on the opposite side. Bear was dead within 10 seconds, I could see blood from my stand!

Check out youtube, there are a ton of videos about mechanicals versus fixed blade demonstrations. Pretty cool stuff.
 

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