G5 montec trouble

C

Coloradoboy

Very Active Member
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So last bow season i purchased some montec broadheads by G5 and they shot great out of my bow and shot almost identical to my field points on my 350 grain carbon express maxima hunters but I can not get the damn things sharp!!!! I used a flat stone and made sure to get equal strokes on each side but never go that razor sharpness i was looking for. So im thinking for my spring bear hunt im going G5 strikers, NAP hell razors or some Slick Tricks. Anyone have similar problems?
 
What did you use to sharpen them? If you go to their website, they have a video on their recommended method of sharpening. Follow it and you shouldn't have any problems. It bothers me too that they can't make them sharp out of the package, but a few strokes on their flat diamond hone gets them razor sharp.

http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
 
Well thats exactly where i went for directions. But i still can't get the things to what i consider sharp enough to hunt with. But then agian i wasn't using the G5 diamond stone but i was still using a flat diamond stone.
 
I totally agree. I think they are a great broad head, but I have never seen them as sharp as I like. I hand lap/strop my Muzzy blades, and then sharpen the tips to cutting edges. It requires time, but on the testing I have done they are easily 3x sharper then stock. Everyone's idea of sharp is different, but I have never found a broad head or blade that is as sharp as I want without more work. Some are easier then others to get truely sharp IMO.
 
Curious how you hand lap your muzzy blades?

I sharpen the points as well, but just put lots of new blades on each season.
 
I admit up front I'm not to bright on this subject, but how do you tell how sharp it is. I can tell the diffrence between a butter knife and a razor. But I never could tell much of a difference between the broadheads I use. How do you guys test sharpness? When you say you get it 3X sharper than factory, how do you judge that?
 
The way i always judge if my broadheads are sharp enough is if i can take a rubber band and stretch it and the be able to slice through it with my broadhead by pressing it against it.
 
I have found the Montec diamond stone to be the best thing to sharpen these with, and very very light strokes is the key. I don't go side to side either but front to back....or is it back to front? they both work.
 
I use the finest Lansky stone they make, and go with the edge alternating sides one pass at a time. This is done hand held not in a clamp or angled jig. I do this several times until the entire bevel is shiny polished. Then add a little more angle with light pressure and alternate sides with a few passes. Then using a stiff piece of full grain leather about 6" long simply strop or drag th edge alternating sides numerous times. I simply honed the tips on a flat stone working to a ultra fine stone. Again I finish with the fine lansky at an increased angle. Use a short peice of cut off arrow shaft, and glue an insert into it to make it easy to hold the body and tip for initial sharpening. Make sure you also use equal pressure and strokes to keep it even. How I tested mine was to compare a stock blade to a finished blade in side by side tests. Cutting paper, cardboard, and leather scraps. I also did puncture tests with the tips and fully assembled broad heads through the same material. The fine sharpened blades, tips, and heads did everything amazingly better then non modified factory.
 
You will never get the cast blades as sharp as rolled sheet stock which is what most other blades are made out of. If you were to look at the surface finish of the cast Montec blades under a microscope you'd find the surface looks like a sponge with a bunch of porous holes. No matter what you try, it is impossible to get them as sharp as a 420 or 440 stainless sheet stock. Go to a different head if you want a sharper broadhead. Beware though, you will find different degrees of sharpness among these blades also. But, at least you can sharpen them to a much sharper edge using something like the Lansky or Gatco sharperner.
 
If you want sharper than the Montec I would say switch to the G5 Striker. That head is crazy sharp right out of the box. The Striker's blades are made from Lutz steel and are actually made in the same factory that Lutz Scalpels are made.
Sharpest broadhead made, so they claim.

G5 for life

}}-SLIVER-->
 
i have never been able to get a montec sharp. I finally switched to the snuffer last year. Kind of the same design.
 
Ya i don't think its worth the effort trying to get these things sharp. So I think im going the try out Slick Tricks, G5 strikers, NAP Hell Razors, Tight point shuttle T's, and some Wac 'em tritons.
 
my brother hit an elk last year with slick tricks, hit in the shoulder and the broadhead broke. my other brother hit a cougar with a slick trick and the same thing happened.
 
Slick tricks are junk. Stick with the G5's.

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
I have had very good luck with the Slick Tricks, why would you say they are junk, do you have anything to back that statement up?
 
Yeah I do actually break on contact, do not open, Junk all around= lost game. Is that enuff for you?

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
DO NOT OPEN A WOUND! They're crap. I have read more negative stuff on this site than any other broad head on the market. One guy even said the blade broke on contact. Ive never read a bad thing about G5 Montec. There was an article in a magazine a few months back about how the G5 was better at ebverything. Pentration, flight, cut on contact and not to mention durability. Im just goin off what Ive read on these posts. Anything that breaks and results in the loss of an animal is crap to me. Even if it is a forked horn!:)

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
>DO NOT OPEN A WOUND! They're
>crap. I have read more
>negative stuff on this site
>than any other broad head
>on the market. One guy
>even said the blade broke
>on contact. Ive never read
>a bad thing about G5
>Montec. There was an article
>in a magazine a few
>months back about how the
>G5 was better at ebverything.
>Pentration, flight, cut on contact
>and not to mention durability.
>Im just goin off what
>Ive read on these posts.
>Anything that breaks and results
>in the loss of an
>animal is crap to me.
>Even if it is a
>forked horn!:)
>
>Timberline
>
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

>"Live for somethin' or die for
>nothin'"


Well Mr. Shed...
I have personal first hand experience that is exactly the oppsite of what you have read on a post.

I watched my a friend shoot a 5 point bull with a montec. he miss-judged the distance and hit the bull in the top of the shoulder/base of the neck.. NO MAJOR BONE was hit, but he severed the thick tendon that runs down the neck and into the shoulder area. Bull dropped and got hung up in some brush and trees and could not get up.. he walked up to 20 yards and shot the bull twice more behind the shoulder again with montecs. Bull did not die. He only had 3 arrows tipped with broadheads the other had a small game head on it. My ohter friend was close by and came over he was shooting slick tricks. He took one off of his arrow and gave it to the shooter to put on his grouse arrow so he could finish the bull, which was still very much alive. He shot him with the slick trick and the bull eventually dies..
None of the arrows passed through or even broke the skin on the far side, except the first one, but I found it a short distance away.
ONLY ONE BROADHEAD WAS RECOVERED!!! THE SLICK TRICK.
All three montecs were broke with the threads still in the insterts. The thickest bone hit was a rib and the fin bone on top of the spine on the first shot.
I am not backing the slick tricks, as I don't shoot them either, but you might think about posting information or opinions based on somthing that YOU have seen or actually been involved with instead of something you saw on the internet...
 
Boy oh boy. People take this broadhead stuff seriously! Im just stating what I think about the G5's. Eventually after 3 shots or whatever you said the bull will die whether you shoot it with a slick trick, muzzy, G5, whatever. The fact of the matter is Ive seen alot of animals whether it be deer, elk, javalina, antelope or a lion. Every animal i have ever seen shot by the G5 has opened a huge gaping hole and stayed in one piece, and came out sharp the other side of the animal. In that article I read, I think it was in Eastmans or Kings Outdoor World, it showed the montec compared to the muzzy, slick trick, all the leading broad heads. The Montec G5 out performed them in every category. Durability, Flight, penetration, sharpness. They even shot the montec against a cinderblock and it didnt even bend the tip of the broadhead, as where others broke, folded and dulled. This comparison/test was published in a very respectable magazine and was completed by experts, if you wanna go ahead and argue with them, thats fine, Im just stating the test proved it was the best broadhead. You want to argue with the facts/experts/results thats your choice.

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
I personally love my g5 montecs, they shot almost identical to my field points are tough and durable, my only complaint is i can't get them sharp. But it maybe is just the stone im using because I use the exact same technique as shown on the g5 website.
 
I absolutely love the Montec's. I have never had a problem with total devestation on an animal. I have centered two femurs on deer and had complete pass throughs. They do take some work sharpening, and I do use the montec sharpener. Not to say they're aren't as good broadheads out there, but I don't think there are better ones.
 
Finally someone that knows what they are talkin about.

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
I love the G5, i shot them this year and seen the damage they can do, good blood after contact, (except in loose black dirt)... but all in all i have seen the G5's in action and can't complain one bit about the performance. Absoultely love them, probably won't shoot anything else.

HuntNV
 
Mr. bear,

Yogi, um i wouldn't say that the broadheads were junk, i would say your friend would need to hit the range a little more if he can't kill a bull, after 3 arrows.... just my 2 cents, but the broadhead will only do its job if you put in the spot for it to do its job. You know what i mean.
 
My favorite broadhead, by a country mile, is the slick trick. I've used the montecs in the past, and they worked fine. Killed an elk with them. But, with slick tricks, I get a sharper head, replaceable blades, that fly better than the montec, with more cutting diameter (4 blades v. 3), and they are cheaper to boot.

If you do some research on archerytalk.com - the biggest archery board on the internet - you'll see that most there agree with me.

You can also look up some great broadhead tests by a fellow that goes by 5shot. His site is http://www.broadheadtests.com/. He also finds the slick trick to be better.
 
Ive also had "killer" results with the slick tricks! They open a hell of a hole in a critter and they bleed'em out quick.
ismith
45f82e4d30de4f30.jpg
 
How come different magazines do the same tests on the same broadheads and get different results? It just doesnt make sense! They have to be BS'n the results. G5's all the way.

Timberline
479e683e07df5b74.jpg

"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
 
i will throw my 2 cents in i personaly am a big muzzy fan and swear by them.


Just Living The Dream
 

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