G5 T3 broadheads

A

AWHOLELOTTABULL

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I had a guy over in Price tell be about these broadheads and so I tried them out. Shot my first speed goat the other day with one and it litterally tore a hole in that thing big enough to put a golf ball through. I was very impressed. I couldn't have spray more blood on the ground with a water weeny! I'm sold.


It's always an adventure!!!
 
Im in the market for a broadhead right now and i might consider these how much for 3
 
They were $49 for 3. IMO well worth the expense. I've always been a fixed blade person but these things really tear them up. A blind man could have followed this blood trail.


It's always an adventure!!!
 
Here is a pic of my 2011 Nine Mile antelope. T3 put a massive hole in this guy. I really like this head.
AaronandJantelope.jpg
 
how close to a field point do the fly at long ranges? did you have any trouble with the blades coming open in flight? And how do the new "spider clips" work? better or worse than an o-ring or rubber band in your opinion?
 
I have shot these to 80 yards and they hit exactly where my field points hit. Blades have never come open in flight, and they never come open in my quiver. Once you own then you will see why. The blades fit tight when they are closed but they have opened perfectly on everything I have shot with them and they leave huge holes. The spider clips work great, but once you shoot them once, you need to replace them. Each pack of heads comes with several extra spider clips. You really don't have any reason to shoot with them except when you are hunting as T3's come with practice blades and you don't use the spider clips when you use the practice blades. The holes these heads put in animals are pretty impressive and they are a very durable head. I put one through and elk last year and and antelope this year and I haven't had a broken blade yet. I still have those heads in my quiver, replaced the blades on one (antelope) and just re-sharpened the blades on the other. Hope this helps.
 
thanks lucaar, one more question for you, what kind of penetration did you get on that elk you said you shot? I shoot a 420 grain arrow for elk producing about 77 ft lbs. of KE, do you think that would be sufficent for this head on an elk? After all it is a 2+ inch diameter cut youre pushing through the animal right?
 
First, the head is a 1.5" cut. On the elk I shot the arrow penetrated up to the fletchings at 25 yards. It was kind of a weird angle, I hit him in the back and punched forward through chest (downhill). If this was broadside I have not doubt this would have been a pass through but there was a lot more elk to penetrate at that angle. The antelope I shot was bedded at 50 yards facing me and the arrow burried up to the fletchings. In the picture the arrow is out further because I tried to pull it out for the photo. I will be using that same head for elk for the next week here in Utah. I am shooting a 387 grain arrow at 327 FPS.
 
They are good for deer and small animals not good for BIG elk or bigger animals. Two big bulls were flat out missed because of blades opening on the release this year! Shoot a fixed blade and eliminate one more thing that can fail.


Traditional >>>------->
 
If the blades opened on release they weren't seated correctly or the spider clip was damaged. How would you know if they opened on release anyway? I can't see the tips of my arrows when I shoot, especially when I am shooting a big bull :). I am shooting 330 fps and they have never opened on release. If anything, the blades are tighter than they need to be. If you hit an elk where you should, it will kill the crap out of it, it will also leave a lot bigger hole than a 1" or 1 1/8" fixed blade.
 
I agree with everything you have said about the T3. Great head. If the blades are opening in flight they were not seated properly.

The only thing I disagree on is you shooting 330 fps with that there Martin. I doubt that bow even has an IBO speed of 330.
 
Yes, they will leave a bigger hole. My point is why add another thing that can fail especially on an LE hunt? Whether you believe it or not the blades DID come open on two different bulls. Thats the last thing I ever want to worry about. I'm also having a hard time with the 330fps. Whats your draw length? Arrow weight? Bow? Good luck with mechanicals...I hope you don't learn the hard way like so many others.


Traditional >>>------->
 
AWHOLELOTTABULL ....$49 for 3???? wow you got raped. Sportsmans sells a 3 pack for $39.

lucaar ....I am also curious how you are getting 330 fps?? Thats pretty fast for that arrow weight out of that bow.
Congrats on a nice goat.




Mathews Z7
Easton FMJ 340
Sure Loc Single pin
TEAM RAMROD
 
Hey HC! The guy that sold them to me said that they were having a problem with them occasionally opening up in flight but they give you extra clips in the pack of 3 now and they say to double clip them. All the forums that I have read about them so far say that has solved the problem. Ubelievable hole and blood trail. I never got a hole or a blood trail like that out of my fixed WacEm broadheads.


It's always an adventure!!!
 
Have killed two bear and bulls with them. I really like them also. Used a striker and my elk this year and did well also.
curtis wilson
 
I hope they work awesome for everyone that uses them. We also shot a deer with them...it was a quartering away shot with complete passthrough. There was little to no blood trail. We got lucky backtracking to find him. Again my thing in Archery is to keep things simple. The less things in the field that can fail the better.


Traditional >>>------->
 
HorseCreek, obviously you like things simple as your tag line ?traditional? explains that. It appear you don't care for anything mechanical including compound bows. I am a mechanical broadhead and bow junky. If you spend the time to know the broadheads like you know your equipment then there is much less of a chance of having failures. Im not saying there isn't junk out there. There sure is and more of it then not. But I don't doubt for one minute the G5 T3 heads are one of the best and after spending the time with them to understand them then if you have had one open in flight then you didn't have them seated correctly. Which again goes back to knowing your mechanical equipment and understanding just exactly how it works, IMO. By the way, I have seen pass-through?s with Fixed blades leave little to hardly any blood trail too, what's your answer to that? There are two guy?s I just met in the field this week and both have shot elk with fixed blade heads and both have not recovered their elk. They both claim the shots were in the lungs. Bottom line, Chit happens, shoot what your comfortable and confident in.

GBA
 
I have been shooting Tekan broadheads sense they came out and have killed lots of critters with them. When the t3 came out I liked them even more and ran out and bought some to try. I had no problems with them and loved how well the flew. I drew my LE elk this year and made the choice to shoot the T3. After putting my broadheads together I noticed that the spider clips where not made out of the some thickness of metal as my set from the year before and a clip from each package confirmed my oppsurvation. I would almost have to bend the prongs straight up to have enough tension and a few days latter I would pull them out and blades would be open or loose. As far as my missed shots that Horsecreek is talking about I had problems as I nocked my arrow and had something at the shot causing some serious drag.this happened on 2 separate times. I have spoken with a G5 rep and Jakes archery and both confirmed that the spider clips are thinner and don't hold as well. I changed all 6 of my arrows over to fixed blades and my arrows flew awesome so I fill like the problem lies in the broadheads. To each their own but this is what I had happen to me and am still haunted by one of the elk I missed. I would hate to see any one to go threw what I have but T3 are just to under par for large mature bulls use a good fixed blade less worry and you hit them right and they fall over dead in less then 10 seconds .
 
Extrema1, It seems to me you understood the issue with the heads before you even took a shot. You cannot blame the Mechanical head for the failure. You were the one who failed when you used something you knew had an issue. IMO that's worse than someone thinking everything is ok with their equipment only to find out after the shot it was not. Like have a fixed blade unscrew a turn or more in the quiver leaving the blades loose and still shooting the head. Then blaming the head because the blades popped out on impact. It doesn't matter which head you used, mechanical or fixed if you don't make sure your equipment is in working you're the only one to blame. Just an observation and hopefully you've learned from this to be more diligent with your equipment in the future. Might want to go to BigPigs Terminator fixed head that have no moving parts/blades.

GBA
 
LAST EDITED ON Sep-16-11 AT 10:19AM (MST)[p]"The only thing I disagree on is you shooting 330 fps with that there Martin. I doubt that bow even has an IBO speed of 330. "

Velvet_racks- I am shooting a Martin Warthog, IBO is 350 fps. I am shooting 71#'s with 29.5" draw and Gold Tip Velocity XT 300 arrows. I would be happy to shoot it through a chrono for you. Come over any time.
 
LAST EDITED ON Sep-16-11 AT 09:57AM (MST)[p]I do love my VPA Terminators!

Fixed or mechanical, I'll leave that debate up to you guys, but I don't like broadheads made of cast metal. Too brittle. I wouldn't shoot a cheap bow with a cast riser, so I am certainly not going to trust cast metal with the thing that actually does the killin! JMHO.

If/when I feel the need to shoot a mechanical, it's a Rocket Steelhead that I trust. Simple, foolproof design.
 
>Extrema1, It seems to me you
>understood the issue with the
>heads before you even took
>a shot. You cannot blame
>the Mechanical head for the
>failure. You were the one
>who failed when you used
>something you knew had an
>issue. IMO that's worse than
>someone thinking everything is ok
>with their equipment only to
>find out after the shot
>it was not. Like have
>a fixed blade unscrew a
>turn or more in the
>quiver leaving the blades loose
>and still shooting the head.
>Then blaming the head because
>the blades popped out on
>impact. It doesn't matter which
>head you used, mechanical or
>fixed if you don't make
>sure your equipment is in
>working you're the only one
>to blame. Just an
>observation and hopefully you've learned
>from this to be more
>diligent with your equipment in
>the future. Might want to
>go to BigPigs Terminator fixed
>head that have no moving
>parts/blades.
>
>GBA

GBA, settle down chief! Extrema only new the problem after the two missed shots. Don't take it personal! I never said I don't like compounds either...don't know where that came from. My signature is tradition only becuz that's what I choose to shoot.





Traditional >>>------->
 
LAST EDITED ON Sep-20-11 AT 03:39PM (MST)[p]Hey Horse creek just for clarification if shot at a "deer or smaller animal" they will NOT open up prematurely and do the job as intended ? But if shot at a larger animal such as "BIG elk or bigger animals" they WILL open up prematurely and miss the bigger target all together ? Are you sure it was not a screw loose behind the release ? Sorry I couldn't resist.
 
>LAST EDITED ON Sep-20-11
>AT 03:39?PM (MST)
>
>Hey Horse creek just for clarification
>if shot at a "deer
>or smaller animal" they will
>NOT open up prematurely and
>do the job as intended
>? But if shot
>at a larger animal such
>as "BIG elk or bigger
>animals" they WILL open up
>prematurely and miss the bigger
>target all together ?
>Are you sure it was
>not a screw loose behind
>the release ?
>Sorry I couldn't resist.

Lol, I guess you have a point. I will clarify my point...IMHO I don't like them for BIG, big game even if they work as advertised. I'm just sayin, if the blades open in flight they have no chance.
And by the way, from the stories I've heard...You need every advantage you can get the way you shoot! :)
Oh yeah, I shoot fingers...no screws there. :)




Traditional >>>------->
 
Saw the results from these heads first hand on a cow elk they are brutal! The cow expired in 20 yards, Stevie Wonder could have followed the blood trail. Not a fan of mechanical heads myself but if they were cheaper in price I might shoot them they fly great as well.
 
LAST EDITED ON Oct-16-11 AT 00:17AM (MST)[p]I have shot lots of different broadheads and have shot plenty of mechanicals. As far as mechanicals go these broadheads are top notch. Well designed, durable, and accurate.

That being said in my own personal opinion and experience I can't get the penetration from a mechanical that I get from a fixed blade. I have shot 8 animals with a bow this year using shuttle t lock fixed blade and I have had 8 complete pass throughs and 7 of the 8 were one shot kills. I have not had that many pass throughs in the last several years with a mechanical head. Granted I had to do some worked to get them tuned in to shooting with my field points they are now very accurate with my field points.

Mechanical heads can definitely do some serious damage on the right shot but the reason they can do so much damage is the same reason they struggle to penetrate. Bigger cutting diameters! (and the loss of kinetic energy caused by the blades opening)

When these blades open a very small amount of kinetic energy is lost which can effect penetration. On top of that most mechanicals have a very big cutting diameter which is great for cutting big holes but bad for penetration as it has to cut more surface. I am willing to take a smaller hole that gives me full penetration which results in more overall tissue being cut and with two holes typically better blood trails.

That being said mechanical blades are much easier for the average archer to shoot accurately and accuracy is often more important than many other factors. I am not trying to say anything bad about any particular heads just making an observation from my own experience and playing a little devils advocate about them. As far as mechanical heads go the T3 is one of the best ones on the market.

By the way Jimmy Lets see a picture of the speed goat. You can't post this without a picture. I am addicted to hunting those buggers with a bow!

Jason Yates
http://www.BasinArcheryShop.com
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MTQuivers, Good to see you down here in the archery dungeon, LOL. If you don't mind my asking what is your total arrow weight? With mechanicals and to your point it does take more KE or momentum (for you BipPig :) ) to get penetration. I have the opposite experience or yours, I have mostly pass through and even on my bull had the head not stopped on his femor/thigh bone (Extremely hard quartering to me shot) it would have punch through. However I shoot a 455 grain total arrow weight but only putting out 260fps. Im convinced I could put a 2 inch cut ?rearward deploying? mechanical and pass through any western big game with that set up.

GBA
 
My arrow weight is 438 grains and I am pulling 76-77 lbs which now puts my arrow at 311 fps. With around 90 lbs of kinetic energy I still had issues with penetration on certain mechanical heads. No penetration issues this year with suttle t's. In fact I shot a black bear and a mule deer straight on and both of them passed through and came out near the butt.

Jason Yates
http://www.BasinArcheryShop.com
5% OFF to all MonsterMuleys.com Members!
Discount code = monstermuleys
 
I shot a bull this year at 80 yards and almost got a pass through. Went through to the other side and when skinning it, went through the skin, but not the hide.

Used the Epek broadheads, flies truer than any other head I have shot, but wasn't to impressed with the hole it made, in fact I don't think it opened on impact.

Needless to say my bull went 5 sec and crashed.

4112011_elk_pics_017.jpg


The arrow backed almost all the way out when he crashed.
25562011_elk_pics_014.jpg


97832011_elk_pics_018.jpg


 
MTQuivers, Most mechanicals are jack knifing type blades. That's like a running back stiff arming a tackler to push the tackler aside. The running backs shoulder act like the pivot point or jack knife hinge and yes it takes up quite a bit of kinetic energy until the blades are folded over and then you can times that by two or three depending on the head.

Zedro, Epek heads have always had the issue of not opening on entry. I think they need to drop the o-ring and strengthen the magnet inside holding the blades closed or drop the magnet and use a softer compound o-ring. However I am surprised you didn't punch all the way through the other side. What is your over all arrow weight? Very nice bull by the way, congrats!! Great shot too, looks like a good heart shot?? I have found that Epek heads make one nasty BIG hole when the blades are open through vitals and exit the hide. I just won't shoot them any more until they can get them to open on entry for the very reason you stated. Without a pass through you don't have much of a hole. It's still a jack knifing head but because of the design the blades should be opened well before ever getting to the hide which would give the arrow head a good inch and a half inside before it ever hit the blades thus eliminating kick out issues. If they can fix that issue IMO there is no doubt they would be one of the best mechanical heads out there. As you stated they fly awesome.

GBA
 
Hoyt Katera 80# limbs (but they have softened up a bit, now 77#'s)
Gold Tip Kinetics 387 grains
Flex Fletch low profile 4 inch vanes
Epek 3 blade 100 grain broadheads

I have a short draw length, 27 inches. With the Kinetics, the inserts that came with them are garbage, so I used the Easton HIT inserts, thinking next year I am going to install the Brass ones to gain more arrow weight.

The Shot, I thought I got really good penetration being 80 yards from the animal and the thickness of an elk hide, I think I just got lucky with the shot placement because he didn't drop an ounce of blood, I simply just heard him crash up the hill for literally 5 seconds, and then he gave out 3 last breathes of air and he was done. Walked right to him after I stood there in amazement of what really just happened. Didn't want to take that far of a shot, but his herd cows had me pegged and after long days of hunting with zero shot opportunity's you take what you can get at times.

I still love the Epek heads, I am shooting the original version ones though, from what I understand they updated the head and made the nose a little shorter. I bought like a dozen of them, and am just too cheap to not use those ones and buy the new ones :)

The best thing about the head is the set screw for practicing.

FYI no head fly's like a field tip. I sighted my bow in up to 120 yards with field tips, then I put on my broadheads, and low and behold I was shooting about a foot low. Took off all the field tips and only shot broadheads from then on.

Lesson learned, since the Epek heads have the set screw I am only going to shoot them from now on instead of field tips (and they worked great in my foam 3d deer target).

I also understand the new Ulmer head has the same style of set screw for practicing which I am excited to try out, but a little different from the Epek's, blades on the Ulmer head will still be exposed so they will dull up, where on the Epek's all the blades are hidden. I guess pros and cons to everything.

Hope success to all this year and next :)
 

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