How to test a scope!!!!
For anyone who doesn't know, this is how to test the mechanics of a scope. This is what the head gunsmith for mcmillan fireamrs told me and was backed by the folks at lilja barrels.
This is how I determined that a nightforce was vastly superior to that of a swarovski and a leupold. I wouldn't take the word of the above mentioned sources. I was sold on leupold at the time.
Take a scope of your choice. Mount it on a gun and clamp it down in a vice of sorts. zoom in the scope to its highest power. place a very fine dot on the wall on the exact location of where the crosshair is pointing. If you can get the dot 25 yards away that would be perfect. Put a fired round in the chamber before you start all this. Once everything is lined up pull the trigger whereby dropping the hammer on the spent round. Now look through the scope and put another very fine dot on where the crosshairs are settled now. I can attest for every night force scope moving no more than 1/16" at 100 yards. My leupolds all(about 8) moved no less than 1/4" at 100 yards, and the 2 swarovski scopes I tested both moved between 1/4 and 1/3 of an inch at 100 yards. What does this mean? this means that you need to take your best possible group size and add scope drift into it. Every scope made has drift. Only problem is that manufacturers don't publish this data. Sucks huh? Anyways, if you have a 300 RUM that can punch a 1/2 group at 100 yards and a swarovski sits atop your gun you can expect on average that you will have no better than 3/4" groups on those bullets. That is a huge difference when we are talking accuracy. My question is this. How much mechanical drift does a huskemaw have?????
Let me say one more comment before someone chimes in and says that they got one group with a 300rum and swarovski combo under 1/4 MOA. One three shot group doesn't count. If the gun is viced, aka clamped down, you need to take your worst group as your group size. I don't care about fliers, cuz fliers don't care if or when you are shooting at deer. If you want to play mathematics you can calculate the mode, range, 1st, 2nd and 3rd sigmas, etc... all you want. All I'm saying is dont count one group once upon a time as the real accuracy of the gun.
Just curious huntinco, Can you do this with that huskemaw and let me know what the mechanical variation is on that scope. I personally could care less for optical clarity. Thats what binoculars and spotting scopes are for. Who knows, maybe the huskemaw isn't so bad. Dry fire that sucker about 10 times and post the data if you wouldn't mind. I'm sure me and everyone else in here would love to know how the huskemaw performs.
SS