Paper Tuning

[sayala]

Has anyone found that it is harder to paper tune carbon arrows vs. aluminum? It seems that no matter what adjustments I make my arrow still doesn't come off straight. I was just wondering if it is possible that carbon would flex more than aluminum? Any tips or suggestions you could give me I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Sayala

 

[c3]

I've also found carbon arrows much more difficult to tune and not just paper tune.

Aluminum arrows are very true in spine (stiffness) from one to another. Most carbon arrows have a much wider stiffness tollerance. Therefore they are less consistant through the paper.

Carbon arrows are usually lighter and much faster. This amplifies tuning errors. It takes considerable effort to get the correct spine with carbons. Try raising and lowering your poundage to see if you can find a tune that way. Another thing to try is making sure your carbons are long enough. I've found many tuning issues can be solved by making sure the tip is a couple of inches in front of the rest at full draw.

While it is a very controversial subject, making sure the front node of the arrow is on or in front of the rest at full draw can fix a stuborn bow rather quickly. Explaining nodes is rather long winded, but you can email me if you haven't seen what it is.

Another issue is the effect of grip torque on your tuning process. This one is very dificult to quantify. I worked on a particular bow with a very fat cast riser for two years and was never able to get it to paper tune with any arrow. If I were to use a high wrist and keep any part of my thumb pad from touching the grip it would shoot bullet holes with any arrow. With a low wrist grip and conventional shooting style it would never come off clean.

In the end of the day I switched back to XX78 Superswadge 2312's from 400 spine carbons after 9 years of shooting them since the earliest pultruded carbons came out. Life is much simpler now

Cheers,
Pete

 

[MBM]

I have never had great luck paper tuning carbons. What I did last year with my new Hoyt Ultratec was get it as close as I could paper tuning then get some broadheads and group tune with practice points and broadheads. Doing this I got a great flying fixed broadhead arrow shaft that impacted with my practice points out to 50 yards.

Mark

 

[BOHNTR]

Good replies so far and some great info. I guess I'm one of the fortunate ones that have been able to tune my carbons BETTER than I did aluminums. However, as C3 has pointed out I don't push the envelope for speed. I shoot Carbon Express 3D Selects 300's and only shoot 62 pounds. I also cut them to length to sit at least a half inch in front of the rest. They punch a near perfect hole through paper with a trophy taker rest.

I've tuned A LOT of bows for folks and hand grip and basic shooting form is usually the culprit of poor paper tears. I don't know how many times someone has brought their bow in and stated it tears paper badly. When I shoot it through the paper, it's fine. Proper practice makes better shooting.

The one advantage aluminums have is obviously a greater selection of appropriate sizes to experiment with. Before buying all new arrows, try having someone you trust shoot the bow through paper and see what the results are. Good luck and hope it helps.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[sayala]

Thanks for all the great info guys! I guess it's back to the lab for some more experimenting and practice.

Thanks
Sayala

 

[AZbowhntr]

When I bought my latest bow I had problems shooting the gold tip 5575's that I had been shooting. I couldn't get them to paper tune for nothing. I tried shooting the 7595's and I haven't looked back since. Like BOHNTR said, when I have problems now it is almost always form.