Reloading "shavings"

HuntElk4Fun_ · Oct 9, 2006

I've been reloading for a very long time. I recently shifted to 160 gr AB's for my 7mm. I started with some factory 2nds to sight in the gun, work up my load, etc. Anyway, I recently came upon some Nickel brass exactly like my normal RP headstamps. Today I worked up some loads for my elk hunt next week using some brand new AB's. I noticed when I would seat each bullet small, fine shavings from the bullet would appear around the neck. These would break right off if I ran my finger around, etc. Still, I've NEVER run into this before. Any thoughts? This is my first time playing with Nickel brass, is it just tougher and peels a thin layer of the bullet off as it seats? Should I be concerned? My first thought, although it's very minimal amount of shavings, that the bullet is no longer it's original weight and shape, thus performance may not be 100% as expected. Finally, is this normal with "nickel" vs. standard brass?

Any thoughts would be very helpful!

ODDNUT1
Kirt C.
Hunt Odds.com

257Tony · Oct 9, 2006

Nickeled brass is indeed harder than standard brass. I wouldnt say that its normal, but I dont know that its gonna hurt anything. I have had nothing but bad luck/results with nikeled brass, its harder to size and they dont seem to last as long.

HuntElk4Fun_ · Oct 9, 2006

Loaded another 20 tonight using the same box of AB's but with "normal" brass vs. the nickel, no problems. Weird indeed. I'm very thorough on my steps, wondering if I goofed something along the way. Can't think of what, I'm puzzled.

ODDNUT1
Kirt C.
Hunt Odds.com

Bambistew · Oct 10, 2006

I'm sure you probably did, but did you chamfer the mouths?

I don't have much experience with Nickle brass either, but have loaded a 4-500 rounds with it. And used to load it exclusivly for pistols. It is harder to work with, and will scratch your dies, but its only superficial and doesn't hinder the resizing process. Just puts nice little vertical racing stripes on your brass. If you can get away with not using it I would. The only rifle I now load with nickle bass is for my 280, and only because I got 200 new peices of brass with the rifle and a set of dies that had been used with it already. So I figured I wasn't out much.

Anyway, there are small imperfections of nickle coating on the inside of the necks. Once you run them throuhg the sizing die they usually flake/scrap off, sometimes they don't though. I have a feeling that this is what is shaving your bullets. After you shoot them once the imperfections are usually gone, and no more shavings will be seen. If you don't chamfer the mouths on new regular brass you'll get shavings as well.

I like the durabily of the nickle brass and it looks cool, not to mention I think it feeds much better, but I'm not sure that those things out weight the ease of working regular brass. If my 280 didn't shoot so well with the loads I've worked up with it I'd have dumped it long ago.

RELH · Oct 10, 2006

Chamfer the inside of the neck after full lenght resizing should take care of the problem. the shaving of the bullets can effect accuracy if severe enought. You can get a cheap hand tool from RCBS, or any major die company to chamfer the neck opening.

RELH

HuntElk4Fun_ · Oct 10, 2006

I did chamfer the inside of the neck. In fact, although they were new brass, I still treated them like once fired brass. Sized, length, neck/mouth treatment, etc.

ODDNUT1
Kirt C.
Hunt Odds.com

RELH · Oct 11, 2006

If you chamfer the neck, and it still shaved copper, you may have to put a slight bell on the case mouth to allow the bullet base to start without any shaving. You also may have a undersize neck die that allows the case neck dia. to be undersize and causing the shaving.

RELH

ART338WM · Oct 20, 2006

Sounds to me like you need to get a Lyman VLD Champher/Reamer tool. Part# LY7777789 Thay can be bought at the following

www.natchazss.com
www.midwayusa.com
www.midsouthss.com

The cost is quite small at $7.70 at Natchaz Shooters Supply

The item No# at Natchaz is:
LY7777789 VLD champher Reamer

I had the same problem you describe with my Winchester Brass. The lyman VLD solved it for me to my compleat satisfaction. Before I went to the Lyman VLD, I was using a champher/reamer tool made by RCBS that had cutting edges set at a 45* angle. Too wide and made for too sharp a case mouth, hence the shavings I was getting.

Hope this helped.