Remington 700ML

DonV · Nov 23, 2003

The problem with the cap not going off and requiring reworking the bolt is getting worse with my remington 700 inline. I know this problem is common and cleaning really well, including disassembling the bolt, helps. IS there anything else I can do, such as get a new, better bolt? IMO remington should provide a new bolt that does not have this problem. Has any asked them about this?

This is a very expensive gun and there is no excuse for this desgin flaw.

If memory serves me there ae after market bolts available, is this true and if so how can I get one?

fairchase · Nov 23, 2003

Sorry I know this isn't the anwser you're looking for, but about this time two years ago, I put mine in the local paper and cut my losses. Good news is it sold quickly, at a decent price. I got so tired of that dang bolt.

Inmysights · Nov 24, 2003

What kind of Cap are you using....if you aren't using a 209 try switching to that.... I know there are conversion kits for that model. That is what my buddy shoots and he hasn't had any problems since switching.

Inmysights

DonV · Nov 24, 2003

The concersion kit - that is what I remembered, where can I get one? I do agree it is a pain, right before I hunt I fully strip the bolt and clean, a real pain to disassemble since I have no vice. I love everything about the gun but this problem, which is a big one. If it ever costs me a shot I will really be pissed, no excuse for this on a remington, let alone at that price.

Thanks for the input.

Weasel · Nov 24, 2003

Disassembly and cleaning of the bolt is just part of routine cleaning and maintenance in my opinion. Can we really expect manufacturers to make guns that don't need this? Have someone familiar with the bolt show you how to disassemble it. It isn't difficult at all and you don't need a vice. If you clean it after every shooting session instead of right before shooting it'll be ready to go and won't sit and rust or gum up in the meantime.

300WBYMAG · Nov 24, 2003

BASS PRO SHOPS HAS THE CONVERSION KIT; ONE KIT FOR THE BLUE MODEL AND ANOTHER KIT FOR THE STAINLESS MODEL. THEY COST ABOUT $40. BEFORE GETTING THE KIT I BOUGHT A MUSKET NIPPLE AND USED THE MUSKET CAPS WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS.

DonV · Nov 24, 2003

I clean my guns well and I have to say that off the ten or twelve guns I have from semi auto 22's to 12 gauge to bolt .280 to muzz. the remington requires cleaning considerably sooner and more often then any other.

I just did it last night, removing the bolt is very very hard and cuts the crap out of my hand every time, their engineers on this were idiots. That comes from an engineer. I own many remington firearms (6) and love all but this one, here they simply fell on their face.

There is no reason why after 5 or 6 shots (from a clean gun) your bolt should not be able to have enough force to set the cap off. Maybe if I paid 1/4 of what I did I might understand.

The force required to pull the pin back to twist the bolt assembly apart is obscene. I am sure given half an hour Icould design a much more realible, easier to dissasemble, bolt.

DonV · Nov 24, 2003

300WBYMAG, how did getting the musket caps solve the problem? Are they easier to set off?

My problem is not ignition it is the cap going off, it usualy requires I pull the trigger, then work the bolt then pull the trigger, the cap goes off the second time.

DeerKing · Nov 24, 2003

DonV
Hear the same complaint from my buddy that owns one. Obviously something wrong with the design. There is a $400 cure for the problem called the Omega. Cut your losses and switch to one of these...

fairchase · Nov 24, 2003

DonV,
There is a plastic tool made by Remington that will make it a lot easier to take that bolt apart. It's grey and about the size of a golfball. It fits over the end of the bolt and has a notch in it so when you pull and turn it the bolt seperates, with no knuckle damage. Brownells also has some tools that do the same, but there larger and more complex.
The problem with that rifle is Remington put No thought into that gun they just slapped on a centerfire bolt design and it's just not user frendily. I could take apart five Knight strikers in the time a it takes to do one 700ML, with a lot less effort.

For your other problem of not firing every time, try a new nipple and make sure the cap fits correctly. I had a nipple that was too fat on the outside, the cap wouldn't seat low enough and it caused my muzzleloader to require two strikes to ignite the cap.
Hope that helps.

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Luck... where persistence and opportunity meet

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Past Hunts

NMhuntnutt · Nov 25, 2003

Hey there stranger , long time . I wished I had good advice , that wasn't so expensive , but I gotta agree with deerking , I have two T/C inlines and love em both .....How was your deer hunt over in your country ??? Larry

OSOK · Nov 25, 2003

I third DK's motion. No comparison tween' the 2 rifles! And you should still be able to find some poor sap that doesn't know the difference...LOL

DonV · Nov 25, 2003

Thanks for the input guys as for the comment about the nipple being to big, I have suspected that as the culprit for a long time. That would explain why it ALWAYS goes off the second time - because it has firmly seated the cap on the nipple during the first attempt.

Gosh, I need that tool! Never knew it was out there, I nearly kill myself taking it off.

Gun is accurate and nice otherwise but this is still a mjor flaw.

Where I can I get the tool from remington?

fairchase · Nov 25, 2003

I got my Remington bolt dissassembly tool from a local shop although it was hard to find a shop that had one.
As far as the nipple, a good scrub with fine sand paper may be all it needs. As they get used a lot they seem to get a little pitted and rough on the outside, then the cap gets harder to seat. If that dosen't do it, just take the caps into the shop when you buy a new nipple and check the fit first. Good luck
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Luck... where persistence and opportunity meet

[image]http://www.whitetails.com/00hoofline.gif[/image]

Past Hunts

300WBYMAG · Nov 25, 2003

Yes the Musket caps are much easier to handle and get off after firing. I used the Remington brand nipple with the RWS brand flange type musket caps and never had a problem with misfires.

300WBYMAG · Nov 25, 2003

DonV,

I have owned 3 ML700's one blue and recently sold it and bought 2 in stainless. I have not had a problem with any of them. I also own a top of the line Knight in stainless and a Austin Halleck. All are fine rifles but I like the Remington for my hunting. Before you give up spend $5 on a musket nipple and that may solve your problems.

TripleSe7en · Nov 25, 2003

Rem 700 ML Universal Bolt Disassembly Tool

http://www.dnrsports.net/miva/merch...duct_Code=RMA19266&Category_Code=muzzleaccrma

"Sometimes we're the dog -- sometimes we're the fire hydrant"

DonV · Nov 25, 2003

Again thanks guys, I am going to get a new nipple and shoot musket caps and get the bolt dissaembly tool - I am sure it will help a lot.

flycrewsupe · Nov 27, 2003

Hey guys, Kind of off the subject. I have a 700ML 50 cal. stainless and I am looking for a good load that will group. The best I can get with it now is 2in with 100 Gr of pyrodex and a 240 gr hornady with a sabot. Any help would be great.

300WBYMAG · Nov 27, 2003

I get my best groups with 120 grains of Triple 7 behind 300 grain Hornady 45 Cal XTP bullets and Magnum sabots. Most heavy bullets shoot good in my 700ML. 1.5" groups or common.

Chasam58 · Nov 28, 2003

Anyone had trouble with the 700ML not cocking the firing pin? Mine will not **** unless the safe is on-but... when I take the safe off the rifle fires. It seems the trigger sear is not engaging just the safety sear. I think maybe I have a worn out part,but I would like some advice before I send it back to Remington. Thanks
Charlie

Chasam58 · Nov 28, 2003

DonV-Ihad much the same trouble with my 700 before it broke. I switched to 209 primers using the french made conversion kit from Cabela's. These primers are so powerful they blow crud back into the bolt,fouling the spring. I have had my 700 for years,and never had that problem with #11 caps.I always shot 90gr of Pyrodex RS and 240gr Hornady sabots.
Charlie

DonV · Dec 1, 2003

My #11 caps are blown to pieces when I shoot, meaning I do get a lot of crud blown back into the bolt, is this normal? This might be part of the problem in that it produces a lot more bolt fouling then normal. I shoot 90 grains pyrodex.

ELKMASTER101 · Dec 2, 2003

CHECK THE SIDE OF YOUR CLOSURE CAP ON THE END OF THE BOLT. THERE IS A HOLE TO ALLOW THE GAS TO EXCAPE.
MAKE SURE IT IS POINTED OUT INTO THE AIR. NOT ROLED DOWN INSIDE THE CHAMBER WHEN YOUR BOLT IS CLOSED.

Chasam58 · Dec 2, 2003

Don-Are you using the original nipple or something like a hot shot. Could be the blowback is caused by too large a hole. You must realize that the 700 is noted for excessive blowback. I tried a hot shot once,but went back to the original.

Chasam

300WBYMAG · Dec 3, 2003

When I was using #11 caps most were blown to pieces regardless of the type of nipple I was using, even with light loads. However, I never got any crud in my bolt. The Remington bolt is easy to take apart and clean without a tool. Just hook the rear notch of the bolt on the side of a square piece of wood like a table and pull back enough to insert a dime or penny in the bolt notch and screw the firing pin and spring out. That works better for me than the cheap tool that comes with the 209 kit. What is all the fuss about taking the bolt apart on the Remington. It is as easy as screwing a nut on a bolt.

300WBYMAG · Dec 3, 2003

LAST EDITED ON Dec-03-03 AT 08:29PM (MST)[p]There are three small screws on the remington trigger. They are for weight of pull, overtravel and another for sear engagement. Sounds like you do not have enough sear engagement as you said. Another possible problem could be that the sear spring has rusted and stuck in place. If this is the case you will need to remove the sear spring and oil it. Just adjust the sear engagement screw enough to hold without a lot of creep and you should be ok unless something is broken. Be sure to put glue or cement on the screw to keep it from moving after you make the adjustment. I put arrow fletching cement on the screw head to hold the screw in place.

nebraxas · Dec 4, 2003

It's even easier than that. Just push the end (firing pin end) against a workbench (kitchen countertop works good if the wife isn't around) and unscrew the end of the bolt. No tool or money need.

Doug

Gusto · Dec 6, 2003

I too have a Rem 700ML. When I 1st got it I used the traditional #11 caps and got misfires. I then went to musket caps & continued to have misfires. I then found a guy who did a #209 conversion (this was before Remington offered one), I had the conversion done and everything changed I never had a misfire or any problems in rain or snow. I find my 700 to be more accurate then my encore & it is my chief muzzle loader hunting rifle. I love the rifle. The conversion was done by:

Sure Fire Machine & Tool Co. - Gene Thompson
179 Navajo Rd.
Brunswick, GA 31525
912-222-5221

Gene Thompson will send you a color photo of the conversion, it looks far better then the Remington one. The cost @ that time was $119.95. For me it was well worth it to have a rifle I could trust & feel comfortable with.

Gusto

idhunters · Dec 7, 2003

Just an FYI on the 209 conversion. Some states, at least Idaho, do not allow the use of the 209 or any other "primer" on muzzleloaders used during a "muzzleloader only" season. Musket caps are O.K.

I just saw a 209 primer the game warden had confiscated during the late mule deer hunt here in SE Idaho so read the regs in the state you hunt before converting to the 209's. I'm sure the guy got a ticket out of the deal.

Interesting post as my buddy has the remington ML and has the same issues with caps not going off. He will want that cleaning tool. My knight is not as accurate, but it works much better than the remington.

MULEFEVER · Dec 20, 2003

I have a 700 MLS magnum 26" SS, new 3 way ignition system, I use the #11 nipple that came with the gun, and remington #10 primers. Also note: I do not use the round plastic nipple shield that it came with, as this would allow to much blow back into the firing pin, I use the red o ring that slips onto the primer that seals it aroung the nipple (made by traditions called rain gear.) Also I use tripple seven powder,which is cleaner burning. I have never had a miss fire with this combo. I love the rifle had a triger job done and this puppy is accurate, 95 grains of 777 and a powerbelt 295 grain. This year I was rewarded with (2) 1 shot kills. A 3x5 muley 25" wide, and a Cow elk. some times I have to pull it out of the safe just to pet it. Wife thinks im nuts, But I love this gun. My first muzz was a Traditions mag bolt also good shooter. But now there is dust on it.

mossback · Jan 4, 2004

Thats the way I have been doing it since I got the gun, didn't even know they had a tool tell I went and got myself the 209 kit.

goatman · Jan 16, 2004

Been shooting the 700ML for seven years. Finally after trying musket caps I converted to 209 from Cabela's. Shooting triple seven with a 245gr. Powerbelt. What a sweet change. Changed the gun. Very happy!