Sight in for Broadheads?

S

schoolhousegrizz

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2,701
My field tips are grouping nicely. My 100 grain grim ripper broad heads are grouping pretty good also. However, they are grouping about 3 inches lower and 8 inches to the right of my field points at 55 yards. Will BH's be more finicky? For example, if my sight bubble is not centered will that affect a BH more than a field tip? Should I just adjust my sights so that my BH's are grouping in the bulls eye or is there something I may be missing? Thanks for any help!
 
You might be able to correct this by moving your rest up to correct the low broadhead impact, and move the rest to the left to correct the right broadhead impact, assuming you are a right handed shooter. Or, possibly yoke tune if you have that option? If none of the above works, I suspect your arrows are spined to weak.

If you would like, you could give me the make, model, year, weight, draw length; and I can run it through ot2.
 
Thanks. It is a 2015 hoyt powermax at 65 pounds. 29.5 inch dl. The arrows are gold tip hunter pro. 340 spine. Is it okay to just adjust the sight?
 
According to OT2, those arrows are to weak. It says a 30" 300 spined shaft with 125 grs up front would work perfect. You can move the site, but all your doing is just covering up the flight problems. Personally, I would go buy 1 300 shaft and try what I suggest.
 
you could try moving the rest, moving it out stiffens the spine. On my set up, a 32'nd took care of 3" to the right arrow. If you have to go to far though it would be best to go to 300's.
 
You can lower your poundage a little and it might help also.
I know it sucks but I'd buy the proper spine. Sell your current arrows to recover some of the cost.
Did you paper tune and walk back tune it? Like states you might be able to move the rest a little and get some results.
 
Would it help if I had the arrows cut down 1.5 to 2 inches? I have about 3 inches sticking out past the rest. Would weighted inserts help?
 
LAST EDITED ON Nov-24-16 AT 01:53AM (MST)[p]Shortening the arrow will help. If you can get away with a 30" arrow and shooting 100gr it might work. Maybe 3blade can run the numbers.
I would still recommend new arrows. They will penetrate deeper and probably tighten your groups.
 
I ran into a similar situation with my set up which is very similar to yours. I used GT hunter pros with grim reaper 100s. My grouping was similar. The bow shop did a yoke adjustment which pulled my BH online with my field tips. I went ahead and adjusted my sight elevation and it was good. One thing I found is that the broadheads and practice broadheads shoot nothing alike past 30 yards. Also depending on what type of test you have you may consider going with a helical vane. 2" blazers can be noisy in a helical but the lower profile 3" vanes in a helical have helped me at longer distances
 
>Would it help if I had
>the arrows cut down 1.5
>to 2 inches? I have
>about 3 inches sticking out
>past the rest. Would weighted
>inserts help?

I originally ran the numbers with a 29.5" arrow, same as your draw length. Cutting arrow length does stiffen the spine, adding weight to the end weakens it.
 
BH shooting well but poi still different from fieled tips. I think I am going to shoot BHs only. It makes sense to me to practice what you hunt with.
 
>BH shooting well but poi
>still different from fieled tips.
>I think I am going
>to shoot BHs only. It
>makes sense to me to
>practice what you hunt with.
>


You still need to do a walk back test with the grim reapers and adjust rest (preferably a yoke adjustment) at least.

The issue you have is your arrow is flying to the right at an angle and the fletchinges cannot correct it with the broadheads. So if you sight in at 10 your 50 yard pin will be off right. Farther away from where you zeroed your right and left the arrow should hit right of poa and closer left.

The other issue you will have on game is the arrow is going to hit targets angled so penetration will be poor.

You need to tune your bow. Find someone to check centershot and to adjust your yokes for you and move no nocking point for up and down adjustments. Then lastly if still need move rest very little.

Grim reapers typically shoot very easy so I am guessing you are extremely out of tune with the combination of the arrow spine being off.
 
Went to shop. They tuned it. Broadheads still hitting right. They said 340 spine was plenty. Im tempted to buy new arrows judging off what you guys have told me. I'm also trying to improve my form.
 
Beyond what many are telling you here, my experience and controlled testing has concluded that some broadheads simply fly better than others. Their design allows for even air flow and flight is improved. Almost all will not fly exactly as your field points according to a hooter shooter machine at 80 yards.......close (within .25-.50"), but not exact. Of course the machine eliminates human error, so if you're shooting within a half inch at 80 yards........you're going to believe they shoot exact. :)

Pick a head that flies consistent and built well, tune your bow, and don't look back. Wac'em Triton, Slick Trick standards, Shuttle T's, Magnus Black Hornet, VPA, G5 Montec, Magnus Stinger 100 and Muzzy MX3 flew the best and in the order provided. ALL flew within 1.5" at 80 yards of field points. Wac'ems were within .25".

BOHNTR )))---------->
 
Great that you got it tuned. I am not great with spining but you should be able to get the arrows to hit together at least a a set distance making the error less.

Things to check

Broadhead spin test (if you are getting good BH groups just right this is probably fine)

Broadhead tune (you need to be shooting the bow for the tuning and focus on form)

Basically, you shoot a broadhead followed by a field tip (pick a distance you know both with hit the target aiming at the same spot). Then you will micro(very little) adjust your rest towards the poi of the field tipped arrow. In your case you are hitting right with your BH so you will move your rest left. You do the same for up and down (or you can move nocking point towards the BH). The movement will move both arrows POI (closer together if you did it right) and will require sighting in once complete.

Once done at that distance move out farther until you reach you maximum hunting distance which will let you fine tune it more. Repeating shots a few times before adjusting is good as well so you aren't chasing bad shoots around. You want to do one distance per day and spread it out over a couple of weeks.

I do this before I even sight my bow fully when I get new arrows and will try to get my tips and BH hitting together out to 70 or 80 yards. Worst case is that your spine is off and you can get the together at say 50 but they are still slightly off closer and farther but should make it better.
 
>Went to shop. They tuned it.
>Broadheads still hitting right. They
>said 340 spine was plenty.
>Im tempted to buy new
>arrows judging off what you
>guys have told me. I'm
>also trying to improve my
>form.


Just about every pro shop in the country will sell you 1 arrow. Then set it up like I said. Or, if you want to stick with a 100gr head make the arrow 30.75 long. If it doesn't work, you're not out much, if it works you have one extra and the problem is solved.

You could take one of the arrows you have on hand and strip the fletch. Insert fieldpoint and shoot it at 30 yards or so. If the nock end of that arrow swings left, it's too weak. A properly spined bare shaft will fly to the same point of impact as fieldpoints lazer straight.

However, I have run a cross a few bows that could not be yoked tuned that would not shoot a 500 through 300 spined bare shaft straight, I promptly sold them.
 
Thanks guys. The tiniest little things change everything on this bow. I had a slightly different nock on one arrow and it was changing poi about 5 inches at 30 yards? Is this normal?
 
>Thanks guys. The tiniest little things
>change everything on this bow.
>I had a slightly different
>nock on one arrow and
>it was changing poi about
>5 inches at 30 yards?
>Is this normal?

This is possible yes, its called nock tension. If the nock is to tight on the string it it can change point of impact. The nock should be tight enough to hold it on the string if you were to turn the bow horizontal sideways, but loose enough that when you turn the bow horizontal sideways, the string does not turn with it. You want the arrow to spin freely on the string.
 
>I'm going to buy 1 300
>spine arrow and see what
>happens. If I want to
>put in inserts should I
>buy a 250 spine arrow?
>

What weight insert, I'll run the numbers for you.
 
I don't even know what the weight options are or maybe I should just go to 125 grain head what do you think. I just want to have a good foc. Thanks for the help.
 
But what is a good foc to you? Everyone tends to have their own idea as to what is best. I tend to like around 15%, others like around 12%. The original setup I suggested, if you stay with the goldtip prohunter, would give you a 442gr arrow at 12.5%. Using that 100gr head drops it to 10.5%.
 
If I put 25 grain inserts in the back and kept the 100 grain Broadhead that would be the same as if you put in the 125 Broadhead on a front correct? thanks 3 blade. I just have a pack of the 100s so that is why I am asking
 
LAST EDITED ON Dec-17-16 AT 01:08PM (MST)[p]That will stiffen those 340's to just barely weak at 29.5" long so they might work with some rest adjustment. But your foc will drop to 8%. You'll have to leave the 300's 32" long or they will be to stiff, foc drops to 7.6%.
 

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