Stabilizer?

troutsniffer

Active Member
Messages
312
This year on my elk hunt I hunted off a 4 wheeler for the 1st time. I had to take off my stabilizer the make my bow fit in the case. The 1st day of the hunt I lost the screw that attaches the stabilizer to the bow. When I went back to camp I shot my bow just as well without the stabilizer. It didn't sound any noiser without the stabilizer. I hunted the rest of the hunt without it. The bow was a lot easier to lug around without the stabilizer sticking out. I think I will just go without the stabilizer. Anybody else not use a stabilizer on a compound? Any reason anybody can think of why you must have a stabilizer? Thanks
 
I'am with you on that bro. I paid $70 for one on my PSE BM XS and damn think shoots better without it. Todays "newer bows "dont have the shock like older style compounds have. I guess mine was an expensive weight cuz that is all I use it for. Good Luck George
 
There are basically two different types of stabilizers.

(1) One that actually STABILIZES? the bow, making shots more consistent.
(2) One that works to absorb vibration, reducing noise and vibration.

If your bow is already quite and vibration free, the second type will not do you much good.

Almost EVERYBODY will shoot tighter, more consistent groups at long range with the first type.

Results will vary depending on you skill level and individual bow.
I don't know what type of stabilizer you took off of your bow, but most ?stabilizers? sold to hunters fall into the vibration dampening class and do little to improve accuracy.

Check into;
B-Stinger Pro Hunter
Posten Woodsman
Smooth Stability

These ?stabilizing? stabilizers are very stiff, no rubberized joints. They are also long, with lots of weight out at the tip. That is what makes your bow hold steadier, and stay steady during the shot.
 
LAST EDITED ON Oct-10-09 AT 04:41AM (MST)[p]I agree with Anaconda. Just a few months ago I bought a Posten Woodsman to see what all the fuss was about. My groups beyond 40 yards instantly tightened up. I immediately bought a second one for my other bow. After trying it on his bow my brother also bought one. If you get the right kind they really do make a difference.
 
I shoot a Mathews Drenaline bow and it is fuse stabilizer. I can't tell any difference in hand shock with it on. I had decided I would not shoot at an elk over 50 yards, so I never shot in camp past 50 yards. Under 50 yards, my groups were no different. I'll have to shoot some longer distances with and without it. Thanks for your replies.
 
Most Fuse fall into the second category of vibration dampening but not shot improving stabilizers. Unless you have one of the target stabilizers. If you want one to improve your shooting, it should be at least 10" long and have a weight suspended at the end. The work on one of Newtons laws, objects at rest tend to stay at rest, and the further out the weight is the more force it takes to move your bow once you have found the X in your sight. One thing I did find is that it takes me an extra second or so to find the X to shoot at, but once I do it holds much steadier. Good luck in your pursuit.
 
Try a 12" 14 oz. B-Stinger. Shoot several 3 arrow groups at 40 yards and beyond with and without the stab. Actually measure your groups and record every one. Most people will be surprised at what a difference it makes.
 
LAST EDITED ON Oct-18-09 AT 01:35AM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON Oct-18-09 AT 01:34?AM (MST)

I'm with you man, I took mine off a couple years ago "don't miss it a bit". I get a kick out of the photos with guys elk hunting with a 24" B stinger, looks goofy as heck!

I shoot out to 90yds at least once a week and have yet to miss my 18-1 rhinehart target. Heck some times I can cover my arrows with my hand at that distance.
And I shoot almost every day at my 20 yd range in my basement, very seldom do I miss a spot at that distance, all without the help of a stabalizer.
Just allot of extra weight to drag around if you ask me.

60 yds no stabalizer
0505092028.jpg
 
For my stabilizer I put on a doinker v bar splitter and then use two doinkers. I think they are 3 inch. It really helps with my canting on long shots and a shorter ATA.
 

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