Does anybody know how to get a hold of A & H? My brother just bought a 320 a couple months ago, and first tried shooting it this past Saturday, and it will not fire! Apparently the hammer isn't hitting the cap hard enough to fire the cap. He tried adjusting it all different ways and nothing helped. Not once could we get a cap to fire. We tried 209's, musket caps, and #11's. The rifle WAS damaged in shipment, as the rear sight was broke off and the ramrod tip was broke off. But, we can't see how that would have affected the firing mechanism. Maybe something is tweaked just enough so that the hammer is not hitting at the right angle or something. Who knows. But he'd like to get some new parts if possible, but he emailed and got not response, and there is no phone number listed on the website. We've got an elk hunt coming up in 6 weeks so not a lot of time.
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Austin & Halleck
- Thread starter Bob D.
- Start date
A & H is out of business. The fireing pin in the bolt can be adjusted by twisting it. My guess is it's scewed on too tight so that the pin is falling short of hitting the primer. Turn the octagonal pin mechanism couterclockwise until it starts igniting the primer.
If this doesn't help, I'd take it to a gun smith.
If this doesn't help, I'd take it to a gun smith.
I know they're out of business but their website shows they still have parts. Just wondering if anybody has been able to get a hold of them. The hammer was hitting the cap/primer, but apparently not hard enough. My brother adjusted it both ways as much as possible and it didn't make any difference. We must have went through 25 caps before we gave up. Yeah, a gunsmith was the next option, just figured if they'd send a new bolt assembly it would be cheaper/easier. Thanks for the suggestion.
S
ScottD
Guest
Bob, thanks for posting the question.
Thanks for the reply too, Spartacus. Like Bob said, the hammer throw was adjusted correctly to hit the cap. It would dent the cap, just didn't seem to be hitting with enough speed or force. I suspect that maybe I need a new spring.
A few minutes ago, I did email A&H at a different address than I previously tried. Hopefully they will get that email and they will be nice enough to send a new bolt.
I'm just going to plan on elk hunting with the old reliable T/C Renegade. (I just always wanted to get an A&H and when I saw the good prices I couldn't resist.)
Thanks for the reply too, Spartacus. Like Bob said, the hammer throw was adjusted correctly to hit the cap. It would dent the cap, just didn't seem to be hitting with enough speed or force. I suspect that maybe I need a new spring.
A few minutes ago, I did email A&H at a different address than I previously tried. Hopefully they will get that email and they will be nice enough to send a new bolt.
I'm just going to plan on elk hunting with the old reliable T/C Renegade. (I just always wanted to get an A&H and when I saw the good prices I couldn't resist.)
J
JHALL
Guest
i have the exact same problem with my a&h i emailed them and got no answer back mine would dent the caps but not ignite them i adjusted the bolt and still had no luck if you find a solution let me know
B
Bonecracker
Guest
Guys I had the same problem with my rifle two years ago. Go back and read your instructions. There is a paragraph that deals exactly with that subject. It tells you how to adjust the position of the hammer due to the different nipple configurations they give you with the rifle! Of course back then, they responded to me e-mails but it was in plane english in there owners manual!
To get parts for Austin Halleck you have two ways:
1. Go to their website to veiw current inventory and print out an order form and fax it to the number provided.
2. If you live in Utah/Salt Lake counties or travel that way frequently it may be easier to stop by North American Arms in Provo. They handle all of the sales of A&H rifles and parts. Somebody will walk you back and get the part and then run your credit card right then.
If I remember correctly from their website the faxed order form is the preferred way but both will get it done.
I have three of their 320 rifles and have only had the problem you describe once. It was very random so I checked my bolt adjustment, in my case I decided it was a crappy box of primers.
The A&H manual tells you to adjust the bolt until you have a credit card (.030") clearance between the bolt and the rear of the receiver. I had to pay close attention to the adjustment when I used #11 caps but since I started using 209 primers the adjustment does not seem as critical.
1. Go to their website to veiw current inventory and print out an order form and fax it to the number provided.
2. If you live in Utah/Salt Lake counties or travel that way frequently it may be easier to stop by North American Arms in Provo. They handle all of the sales of A&H rifles and parts. Somebody will walk you back and get the part and then run your credit card right then.
If I remember correctly from their website the faxed order form is the preferred way but both will get it done.
I have three of their 320 rifles and have only had the problem you describe once. It was very random so I checked my bolt adjustment, in my case I decided it was a crappy box of primers.
The A&H manual tells you to adjust the bolt until you have a credit card (.030") clearance between the bolt and the rear of the receiver. I had to pay close attention to the adjustment when I used #11 caps but since I started using 209 primers the adjustment does not seem as critical.
B
berg
Guest
LAST EDITED ON Sep-02-07 AT 12:39PM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON Sep-02-07 AT 12:38 PM (MST)
We have 2 A&H
Be careful... I have found an extremely unsafe situation with 320
AH.
After you fire make sure that old 209 primer is not stuck to the hammer.
What happened to me I saw a buck and shot and reloaded, stuck in another 209 on the nipple and closed the bolt....
KA-WHAM...that sob went off. I could not figure it out until several shots later during a test I see the spent 209 primer welds itself onto the head of the bolt hammer mechanism. With that extra metal on there when you close the bolt it fires the new primer as you slide the bolt closed..
3 out 5 times it did it on me. F-that!
My gun went of near a bystander and I hate that feeling. There are numerous remedies I guess but I don't like the fact it can do it.
I will sell my POS
We have 2 A&H
Be careful... I have found an extremely unsafe situation with 320
AH.
After you fire make sure that old 209 primer is not stuck to the hammer.
What happened to me I saw a buck and shot and reloaded, stuck in another 209 on the nipple and closed the bolt....
KA-WHAM...that sob went off. I could not figure it out until several shots later during a test I see the spent 209 primer welds itself onto the head of the bolt hammer mechanism. With that extra metal on there when you close the bolt it fires the new primer as you slide the bolt closed..
3 out 5 times it did it on me. F-that!
My gun went of near a bystander and I hate that feeling. There are numerous remedies I guess but I don't like the fact it can do it.
I will sell my POS
S
ScottD
Guest
My ears are now ringing.
Since I haven't been able to get a cap to go off, I didn't bother using ear protection; well I tried a new primer and adjusted the bolt some more. It went off, and so did a few more. So I guess I had a bad primer or two previously. (CCI 209's)
I don't know if the muskett caps and #11's were bad too; they maybe would have gone off with some more adjusting of the hammer throw. Previously, after a few tries with the musket caps and a couple with the #11's, I did most of the adjusting with the bad 209 primers in.
My brother has the #11's and muskett caps with him and he's gone this weekend. Primers are not legal is this state, so I hope I can get the musket caps to work.
Since I haven't been able to get a cap to go off, I didn't bother using ear protection; well I tried a new primer and adjusted the bolt some more. It went off, and so did a few more. So I guess I had a bad primer or two previously. (CCI 209's)
I don't know if the muskett caps and #11's were bad too; they maybe would have gone off with some more adjusting of the hammer throw. Previously, after a few tries with the musket caps and a couple with the #11's, I did most of the adjusting with the bad 209 primers in.
My brother has the #11's and muskett caps with him and he's gone this weekend. Primers are not legal is this state, so I hope I can get the musket caps to work.
S
ScottD
Guest
Well, I spent many hours today f-ing around with the bolt trying to get it to consistently ignite. I got a few to go off in a row and I thought it was finally set correctly, so off to the range we went. Then at the range, the first shot fired fine. Then it would consistently not go off the first time I'd pull the trigger, then go off the second time after re-cocking and pulling again. The #11's would wait until the 3rd pull of the trigger.
I did get an idea of how the rifle will shoot though. I put 3 shots touching at 25 yards and then 2 almost in the same hole at 100 yards. So, the rifle is worth screwing around with to get it to consistently shoot.
I decided to file off the firing pin on the hammer. I can't legally hunt w/ 209 primers in this state anyway. The pin seemed to be denting the cap in a bit too much and then the second or third hit would sometimes cause it to go off; so I think maybe the pin is too long. My T/C Renagade doesn't even have a pin and it always makes the cap ignite. So, I just got done filing off the pin. Tomorrow, I'll see if no pin will helps at all.
I did get an idea of how the rifle will shoot though. I put 3 shots touching at 25 yards and then 2 almost in the same hole at 100 yards. So, the rifle is worth screwing around with to get it to consistently shoot.
I decided to file off the firing pin on the hammer. I can't legally hunt w/ 209 primers in this state anyway. The pin seemed to be denting the cap in a bit too much and then the second or third hit would sometimes cause it to go off; so I think maybe the pin is too long. My T/C Renagade doesn't even have a pin and it always makes the cap ignite. So, I just got done filing off the pin. Tomorrow, I'll see if no pin will helps at all.
B
bigthree
Guest
what kind of caps are they if there remington muzzle primers try a cci 209 or win 209 shotgun primers I had a knight that was doing that. It would dent the primers but no go a buddy of mine was having the same problem change to 209 shotgun type no problem its worth a try good luck
Timberbuck
Active Member
- Messages
- 346
LAST EDITED ON Sep-05-07 AT 00:15AM (MST)[p]I have a 420 but have not had any problems.
It sounds to me like the pin portion on the bolt face is not big enough to fire the primers ( or does not strike the primer deep enough if that makes more sense)-it would not matter how you adjusted the bolt if it is not denting the primer deep enough.
I have wondered if this will eventually happen on my rifle in the future if the pin wears-my gun is 5 years old and no problems yet.
I believe the solution to your problem is to take the firing pin/bolt piece to a local machinest and have him cut the bolt face deeper while leaving the pin portion, therefore making the pin portion longer, then you could properly adjust the bolt as instructed in the manual.
.010 to .020 is probibly all it would take if it does sometimes fire the primers the way it is now.
As far as spent primers sticking to the firing pins on these guns, this is to be expected, if the 209 nipple held on too tight it would be too hard to remove a spent primer, it is a problem related to the design cahracteristics of this particular set up. I actually like it when it sticks to the firing pin after the shot-it is faster to remove it than trying to pluck it out of the nipple. The lesson here is learn your gun. Every muzzloader requires you to remove the spent primer/cap before you replace with a new one and shoot again. You need to be "spent cap aware" with inlines, its just part of the reloading sequence.
Jon.
It sounds to me like the pin portion on the bolt face is not big enough to fire the primers ( or does not strike the primer deep enough if that makes more sense)-it would not matter how you adjusted the bolt if it is not denting the primer deep enough.
I have wondered if this will eventually happen on my rifle in the future if the pin wears-my gun is 5 years old and no problems yet.
I believe the solution to your problem is to take the firing pin/bolt piece to a local machinest and have him cut the bolt face deeper while leaving the pin portion, therefore making the pin portion longer, then you could properly adjust the bolt as instructed in the manual.
.010 to .020 is probibly all it would take if it does sometimes fire the primers the way it is now.
As far as spent primers sticking to the firing pins on these guns, this is to be expected, if the 209 nipple held on too tight it would be too hard to remove a spent primer, it is a problem related to the design cahracteristics of this particular set up. I actually like it when it sticks to the firing pin after the shot-it is faster to remove it than trying to pluck it out of the nipple. The lesson here is learn your gun. Every muzzloader requires you to remove the spent primer/cap before you replace with a new one and shoot again. You need to be "spent cap aware" with inlines, its just part of the reloading sequence.
Jon.
S
ScottD
Guest
Jon,
I did get it to consistently ignite the 209 primers after I found that I originally had a bad primer. (The box of primers I had tried were more than 20 years old.) The problem I was having was getting muskett caps or #11 caps to ignite consistently.
I haven't tried it yet w/ muskett caps after filing down the firing pin.
Have you shot yours with muskett caps or #11's?
I did get it to consistently ignite the 209 primers after I found that I originally had a bad primer. (The box of primers I had tried were more than 20 years old.) The problem I was having was getting muskett caps or #11 caps to ignite consistently.
I haven't tried it yet w/ muskett caps after filing down the firing pin.
Have you shot yours with muskett caps or #11's?
Timberbuck
Active Member
- Messages
- 346
If its not firing caps then do not file the bolt face!
Adjust the gap between the bolt shroud and receiver back as it shows in the manual/pull trigger and make shure there is no more gap than about 2 credit cards.
Is the bolt face sitting on the nipple (with gap properly adjusted and trigger pulled) ?? It should be.
If you do not screw the firing pin into the bolt far enough you will get too short of a throw on the pin to fire the caps.
Try screwing in the pin into the bolt as far as you can as long as the bolt still sits on the nipple when trigger is pulled.
If you screw the firing pin too far into the bolt the bolt will not contact the nipple and therefore not fire.
You can have problems firing caps if the bolt is screwed in to far OR too little.
Its best to have as much throw (travel) on the firing pin as possible, you will be hitting the cap with maximun force this way. This is how I adjust my gun and i do not have problems with caps,muskets or 209 primers but the adjustments are different for each.
Good luck.
Where do you live? I would be willing to help you with your gun.
Jon.
Adjust the gap between the bolt shroud and receiver back as it shows in the manual/pull trigger and make shure there is no more gap than about 2 credit cards.
Is the bolt face sitting on the nipple (with gap properly adjusted and trigger pulled) ?? It should be.
If you do not screw the firing pin into the bolt far enough you will get too short of a throw on the pin to fire the caps.
Try screwing in the pin into the bolt as far as you can as long as the bolt still sits on the nipple when trigger is pulled.
If you screw the firing pin too far into the bolt the bolt will not contact the nipple and therefore not fire.
You can have problems firing caps if the bolt is screwed in to far OR too little.
Its best to have as much throw (travel) on the firing pin as possible, you will be hitting the cap with maximun force this way. This is how I adjust my gun and i do not have problems with caps,muskets or 209 primers but the adjustments are different for each.
Good luck.
Where do you live? I would be willing to help you with your gun.
Jon.
B
berg
Guest
>LAST EDITED ON Sep-05-07
>AT 00:15 AM (MST)
>
>
>
>As far as spent primers sticking
>to the firing pins on
>these guns, this is to
>be expected, if the 209
>nipple held on too tight
>it would be too hard
>to remove a spent primer,
>it is a problem related
>to the design cahracteristics of
>this particular set up. I
>actually like it when it
>sticks to the firing pin
>after the shot-it is faster
>to remove it than trying
>to pluck it out of
>the nipple. The lesson here
>is learn your gun. Every
>muzzloader requires you to remove
>the spent primer/cap before you
> replace with a new
>one and shoot again. You
>need to be "spent cap
>aware" with inlines, its just
>part of the reloading sequence.
>
>
>
>Jon.
Thanks Jon...
A&H Blows ....we bought our new guns and 1 week later they were oput of business
>AT 00:15 AM (MST)
>
>
>
>As far as spent primers sticking
>to the firing pins on
>these guns, this is to
>be expected, if the 209
>nipple held on too tight
>it would be too hard
>to remove a spent primer,
>it is a problem related
>to the design cahracteristics of
>this particular set up. I
>actually like it when it
>sticks to the firing pin
>after the shot-it is faster
>to remove it than trying
>to pluck it out of
>the nipple. The lesson here
>is learn your gun. Every
>muzzloader requires you to remove
>the spent primer/cap before you
> replace with a new
>one and shoot again. You
>need to be "spent cap
>aware" with inlines, its just
>part of the reloading sequence.
>
>
>
>Jon.
Thanks Jon...
A&H Blows ....we bought our new guns and 1 week later they were oput of business
S
ScottD
Guest
Berg, how much are you willing to sell your A&H for? If you are going to sell it cheap enough, maybe I could buy it from you and use it for parts?
I like how accurate mine is, I just need to get it to fire consistently.
I like how accurate mine is, I just need to get it to fire consistently.
S
ScottD
Guest
Jon, I live near Tumwater, Washington.
I have tried adjusting the bolt every which way. I've been gone elk scouting since Thursday so I haven't had a chance to mess with the rifle any more. I did already file the pin; I haven't tried it since then.
I noticed on the A&H website that they still have some hammers in their inventory, so I figure I would buy another hammer anyway to have for spare parts. So if filing the pin didn't work, then I can get a new one.
I have tried adjusting the bolt every which way. I've been gone elk scouting since Thursday so I haven't had a chance to mess with the rifle any more. I did already file the pin; I haven't tried it since then.
I noticed on the A&H website that they still have some hammers in their inventory, so I figure I would buy another hammer anyway to have for spare parts. So if filing the pin didn't work, then I can get a new one.
S
ScottD
Guest
JHALL,
I hope you're still checking this message board. I found an easy solution. The problem is that the spring is too short; so all you need to do is add a nut between the spring and the back of the hammer.
I just added a nut that had a thickness of about 0.3" and went out and popped-off 4 or 5 caps in a row with no problem at all.
The addition of the nut causes the spring to be in more tension and therefore hits with more force; apparently enough force now to consistently ignite the caps.
I had just found a couple of springs that may have worked at www.leespring.com and www.centuryspring.com but know I think I'll just stick with how I have it.
I hope you're still checking this message board. I found an easy solution. The problem is that the spring is too short; so all you need to do is add a nut between the spring and the back of the hammer.
I just added a nut that had a thickness of about 0.3" and went out and popped-off 4 or 5 caps in a row with no problem at all.
The addition of the nut causes the spring to be in more tension and therefore hits with more force; apparently enough force now to consistently ignite the caps.
I had just found a couple of springs that may have worked at www.leespring.com and www.centuryspring.com but know I think I'll just stick with how I have it.
J
JHALL
Guest
LAST EDITED ON Sep-15-07 AT 10:46PM (MST)[p]I adjusted the bolt to a credit card thickness like it said in my manuel and changed to a knight red hot #11 nipple and it has not misfired once since, the knight nipple is shorter than the one that came with the gun.Now I need to find some screws that are the same size as the pre drilled holes to mount my scope I bought some weaver bases but the screws are to big.
I have 2 AH and they are great. I also know of 2 others that have at least 4 of them. We got together and sent a few of them to Christensen Arms and had the barrel Carbon wrapped. What a difference. shoots tighter and a lot lighter.
I did have an issue with the safety. Gun was loaded, pushed safety to on position, it started to rain real hard and got into truck. Pointed barrel down on floor and pull safety back to make sure it was on. BANG it went off! Blew hole in floor boards. Reloaded again and checked to see what happened. Somehow safety did not work when pull back to the on position. Sent it back just before they went out of business. Replaced safety and trigger assembly. Works fine now.
Lesson learned.. take cap off before you get in truck no matter how wet you get trying to take it off. and DO NOT TRUST THE SAFETY.
I did have an issue with the safety. Gun was loaded, pushed safety to on position, it started to rain real hard and got into truck. Pointed barrel down on floor and pull safety back to make sure it was on. BANG it went off! Blew hole in floor boards. Reloaded again and checked to see what happened. Somehow safety did not work when pull back to the on position. Sent it back just before they went out of business. Replaced safety and trigger assembly. Works fine now.
Lesson learned.. take cap off before you get in truck no matter how wet you get trying to take it off. and DO NOT TRUST THE SAFETY.
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